• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Moggaman

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi. I can’t find much on the forum about this but in winter time if you have houses burning fuel for fires around you , how does the smoke from their chimneys affect the MVHR ... will it bring in warm, ‘fresh’...chimney air. I know there is a filter but I’m wondering have people experience of this Thanks
  2. i dont trust external wall plaster on insulation long term. i trust sand/cement render. Could you explain your comment a bit more for me please... risk of condensation if.......i run pir inside the internal leaf or if i have pir in the cavity alone?
  3. We have a wood burner. A lot of smoke would come into the room when refilling. We installed a H cowl on the flue as it sits under the ridge line. It improved but it’s bad again . Would the orientation of the h cowl matter ?. I was told the h cowl solved every down draft problem . It happens in all weathers . thanks
  4. U value of 0.15 perhaps. What u value did u achieve and can I ask did u fix 25 pir to inside of inner leaf.... isn’t that just the same as insulated plasterboard... people are suggesting they dew point may be an issue with this design?
  5. I did some U Value Calcs and its seems that the PIR Board Insulation like CavityTherm or Xthratherm is the best option (In theory). With a thermal conductivity of 0.033 ish for bead, u would need to go to 200mm wide to make up the difference. What worries me though is that I read an article this evening saying that if the boards are not flush with the inner leaf, that the effectiveness of the insulation is reduced MASSIVELY.... I think a 5mm gaps is allowed. I am not in the house building area but I was wondering for those of u out there that watch insulation boards get installed it possible to get them done near perfectly?. The issue i believe if they are not is that thermal loops will occur and suck the heat from inside out... Also on a slightly different note, I saw a post by someone condemning insulated plasterboard on the inside face of the external wall. I thought there was only positive with that stuff but maybe there isnt...hanging stuff for example...will chasing for wires reduce the effectiveness.. Lots of questions ... Thanks
  6. Thanks everyone.... toothpicks did the job and it is fairly stiff....😀
  7. Hi. Locker knob has come off. It just twists endlessly on the screw sticking out. Any of ye knowledgeable folks know an easy fix pls. Thanks
  8. I just googled seized pumps and saw that if u take off the bleed screw and stick in a screwdriver and manually turn the pump it may unseize it...( when the heating is off)...yes the boiler is firing and we have had no problem with showers.. only turned heating in today after 4 months... pump beside boiler was hot
  9. There is a circulation pump in the garage that is hot ... see second picture. If I undo the screw in that pump and move the propeller with a screw , will a lot of water come out? thanks
  10. Hi. I turned on central heating . Boiler is on, pressure is in system but rads not turning on. See pic ..pump light on...making a lot of noise.... any advice thanks
  11. Hi My house design has 2 large roof windows in a 38 degree pitched roof in each bedroom. Bedrooms are 4m x 3.6m. The room are facing south south east. Prevailing weather is from the South South West. I have never or any of my family for that matter slept for any length of time in a room with with roof windows. We get quite an amount of rain where I live. My fear is that the noise will be more than we can bear. Rather than change my design to dormers.. what are my options to reduce the potential noise.. i have read about 1. triple glazing .... is that really effective..anyone got experience of this working 2. external electric shutter on the roof windows.. again has anyone experience of this and is it the obvious suppliers I should look at. Thanks M
  12. I am trying to keep the first floor to 300mm thick in total max... ridge height is set. Can’t go any higher .
  13. My design has all 3 bedrooms upstairs under roof lights... how do I design against fast decrement delay ... choose my materials wisely?
  14. Hi, I realise this is a question for a SE. I am only looking for guidance as I am only planning my build at this stage. I want to have a hollowcore/precast first floor. I have a proposed span across the kitchen of 5.2m from inside edge of wall to inside edge of wall. Is this too much for a 150mm precast to span or will i need to span a beam the other way as shown in red and place them into the web of that. I realise the wall internally is only shown as a 100mm but that will be a 215mm.. The design upstair is simple..rooms in the roof style all over . Thanks M