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About Moggaman

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  1. Thanks everyone.... toothpicks did the job and it is fairly stiff....😀
  2. Hi. Locker knob has come off. It just twists endlessly on the screw sticking out. Any of ye knowledgeable folks know an easy fix pls. Thanks
  3. I just googled seized pumps and saw that if u take off the bleed screw and stick in a screwdriver and manually turn the pump it may unseize it...( when the heating is off)...yes the boiler is firing and we have had no problem with showers.. only turned heating in today after 4 months... pump beside boiler was hot
  4. There is a circulation pump in the garage that is hot ... see second picture. If I undo the screw in that pump and move the propeller with a screw , will a lot of water come out? thanks
  5. Hi. I turned on central heating . Boiler is on, pressure is in system but rads not turning on. See pic ..pump light on...making a lot of noise.... any advice thanks
  6. Hi My house design has 2 large roof windows in a 38 degree pitched roof in each bedroom. Bedrooms are 4m x 3.6m. The room are facing south south east. Prevailing weather is from the South South West. I have never or any of my family for that matter slept for any length of time in a room with with roof windows. We get quite an amount of rain where I live. My fear is that the noise will be more than we can bear. Rather than change my design to dormers.. what are my options to reduce the potential noise.. i have read about 1. triple glazing .... is that really effective..anyone got experience of this working 2. external electric shutter on the roof windows.. again has anyone experience of this and is it the obvious suppliers I should look at. Thanks M
  7. I am trying to keep the first floor to 300mm thick in total max... ridge height is set. Can’t go any higher .
  8. My design has all 3 bedrooms upstairs under roof lights... how do I design against fast decrement delay ... choose my materials wisely?
  9. Hi, I realise this is a question for a SE. I am only looking for guidance as I am only planning my build at this stage. I want to have a hollowcore/precast first floor. I have a proposed span across the kitchen of 5.2m from inside edge of wall to inside edge of wall. Is this too much for a 150mm precast to span or will i need to span a beam the other way as shown in red and place them into the web of that. I realise the wall internally is only shown as a 100mm but that will be a 215mm.. The design upstair is simple..rooms in the roof style all over . Thanks M
  10. Was it that the PIR was put in poorly?. Surely, 200mm of say pumped/sprayed foam into 200mm rafters would bring you quite close to a serious u value for the roof?
  11. i live in the country so i dont think it would be a problem but i imagine in a city it must be a nightmare
  12. Hi. I am sure this question has been asked. The MVHR system works by sucking in cool fresh air and warms it by exchanging the heat with the stale air on the way out. I presume the intake point cannot differentiate between polluted air and less polluted air. For instance on a cold winters evening if there are fires burning either side of you, how does the intake not pull in smokey dirty air... i realise there is a filter but that can only do so much right.. Probably, a stupid question? Thanks M
  13. Hi I have seen how many house are built with a sub floor, then the walls go up and house. Then the insulation is fitted on the sub floor with UFH sitting on the insulation and a screed poured over that.. Why don't people put in radon, insulation, ufh pipes and pour floor in one hit. This way you save on the screed... the obvious benefit is that you can work in better conditions if you do it in 2 hits but is that the only one? Thanks
  14. Thanks...Im going to leave out the lift!