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Moggaman

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  1. Sorry , haven’t been on in a while. I cut smaller pieces and wrapped them around the brackets as best I could. Plasterers had no issue with them.
  2. Hi. I have decided to plaster my site entrance walls myself. Some questions for you experts!: 1. I intend to scud, scratch and finish coat..with 2 coat plastering beads. Is this overkill or should I scud and finish with single layer bead. 2. Is 5 to 1 mix ok for finish coat and scratch?. 3: how much plasticiser and waterproofer should I add for a typical small electric mixer. 4: what type of waterproofer is needed 5: plastic float the wall and then run with a damp sponge? 6: is it best to apply beads before scudding or after scudding or after scratch? Is mortar the typical way to fix beads on ? any help appreciated. thanks
  3. I mean that after 2 days , both slabs do not feel warm…
  4. Hi. Plumber turned on UFH for first time 2 days ago, upstairs and down . It’s Monday evening and I still can feel a warm slab to my touch… 100mm concrete downstairs on 150mm PIR , 50mm liquid screed on 50mm PIR upstairs . Afraid to ask the plumber cause I have inundated him with questions in the last while. He thinks I’m questioning his work but really I’m just after information. So, I’ll ask ye guys, does it take a good few days for the UFH to ramp up? also, what does this tube at the top of the Manifold represent? thanks
  5. Hi. I have my plant room under my stairs . It’s a small room approx 2m x 1.5m which stores the air to water unit, the MVHR Unit and also the manifold for my UFH pipes run to there. There is no vent as part of the mvhr system in there . The guy who made my stairs said that it shouldn’t get too warm in there cause it can cause the stairs to expand/contract !!?. I presume this room will be warm cause of the UFH pipes running back to the manifold and also the UFH pipes in the slab. There is no stat in this room so it is governed by the hall stat..The stairs is standard red deal and will be carpeted. QUESTION: Do I need to get bespoke Louvre doors to allow more airflow in the room or just put in a standard door…? Opinions appreciated.
  6. Hi. Just wondering which I will pick for my bathrooms. Mira Honesty is more expensive than Mira Atom . The min flow rate of the atom is 3.4 litre per min whilst the min flow rate of the honesty is 4.5litre per min. If there any reason not to pick the Atom. My new air to water system is a 250 litres(ish) tank, so would it be better to get the lower flow rate. Interested on why people would pay substantially more for the honesty than the atom. Interested to hear your views . Thanks
  7. Thanks all. A simple fix really…. Ye might not agree with it.. drilling a few holes in cement board and sprayed expansion foam into it. Has hardened it up substantially.
  8. Hi.I am putting in a polished concrete floor in my new home. My floor was poured on April 4th. It was polished and sealed on June 3rd. The UFH is not yet fully set up but will go on his week. Now I am wondering should I have waited to finish the floor before I put on UFH. At this stage floor is not cracking anywhere it shouldn’t and there are plenty of joints… put my mind at ease!! thanks
  9. Thanks Nick. See again unedited version of what carpenter did before cement board went on . Metal frame flush with timber studs. Can he screw the cement board tight to the metal frame using a metal screw and tighten it around the pan bolts that way?. See green lines below . I still don’t see how the carpenter could have put in anymore horizontal studs between the toilet frame metal uprights with the cistern In the way etc!. am I understanding u right in that the area around the bolts in where the compression will occur when the plumbers tightens the pan to the wall and if the cement board is flexible there, it will crack… what about 12 inches above that near the cistern…no compression, so no issue? One last question please…what is the order in relation to the work here…tiler tiles the wall and tiles into that white box( the flusher )?. Plumber then takes off the white box after tiling and fits the flush plate. I just worry the plumber will blame the chipper for some issue with the flush plate in the future?. thanks Thanks
  10. Thank for that. I see the same question here really. I presume u fixed the board along the blue lines and perhaps fixed it into the horizontal metal bracket . What is backing the cement board at the location shown red approximately?
  11. Can the wall hung toilet afford to lose another 12mm of bolt length??
  12. Toilet frame fixed to block wall.timber frame screwed to wall. It’s the fact that the spacing between the timber studs is wider due to the cistern and toilet frame and the cement board pushes in when pushed
  13. Hi. I am installing 2 Grohe wall hung toilets in my new build. Plumbers installed toilet frames first . Then carpenter built frames around toilet frame. Carpenter put 12mm cement board onto frame .Tiler is in now and he is saying that the area shown (roughly) in red is flexing a bit much. The rest of the cement board is fine and not flexing. The reason is that the distance between the vertical timbers either side of the toilet frame is maybe 100mm wider but also there is no room for a cross timber because of the cistern and pipes etc. carpenter is like ‘ what do you expect me to do?’. help appreciated please…
  14. Hi. I am looking to put in my entrance now. There is a slope going from the road up to my house. There will be 2 inside piers and 2 outside piers connected by block walls plastered. Can I put the footing in on the slope or should I always have a level footing with steps ?. Easier for blocklayer with level footing ?
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