Gone West

Do you happen to know if it is necessary to have the install done under the MCS in order to receive the export payments after FiT ends.

Mine came with this:- FUGI SILICONE PROFILING TOOLKIT with 16 profile variations Provides clean and permanent seals. A releasing agent (soapy water) is not needed to apply the soft caulking mass (silicone). This process results in optimum adhesion and therefore prevents mould from forming underneath. Blemishes can easily be redone without removing the entire profile. INSTRUCTION: Remove old silicone carefully with a caulking knife with saw blade, for residue use a scraping blade. When removing old mildew stained grouts or caulks, wear a protective mask. On scratch-sensitive surfaces (acrylic or plastic) use a chemical silicone remover. First clean the surface then choose the right caulking profile and apply silicone on a distance of 60-120 cm. Now make sure that both FUGI edges touch both wall and floor, slightly press the FUGI and pull – always only use the smooth FUGI edge for spreading. Start again for a new line section behind the point at which you just stopped and repeat the process. To bridge across vertical grouts hold the FUGI at a slight angle and cross over the grout-line. By doing so you will keep a uniform grout-pattern profile. When working on corners, first start with the vertical wall grout lines and let them bond. Then proceed to the floor grout starting out of the corners in both directions. Clean the FUGI after usage with household paper towel. Yes I thought it should be with the chamfer towards you but it's better with the flat face towards you, counter intuitive I think.

Yes, I'm more creaky now than I was nine years ago .

When I first got mine I just used it without reading the instructions. It turned out the reason it wasn't working very well was that I was using it back to front .

Hi Kate, welcome to the forum. We looked at Baufritz at a show around ten years ago when we were researching for our build. We liked the concept, but not the price so in the end did our own thing. We designed the look, construction type, insulation etc to give us the U factors we wanted for our PH. As others on here have done you can purchase a PH timber frame package complete with foundations which is a lot easier than designing it all yourself. Have a look at the various blogs on here detailing members PH builds and good luck with your project.

I think the shape of the Fugi one with the chamfered back that is what makes it relatively easy to use.

I used to use masking tape and a flat blade screwdriver until I got a Cramer Fugi 5 piece kit. Although it's still tricky to use if I'm trying to do a basin behind a tap. https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/cramer-fugi-applicator-kit-5-piece-711919 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBT3kvbocbc

I had put a block of polystyrene around the 110mm shower waste pipe in my wet room before the concrete was poured. It wasn't as big as 300mm square but big enough to allow a sufficient drop of around 20mm over 1.1m. I just had to chip a few mm off around the edge of the hole. After it was tanked I fitted a straight connector to the pipe and then a McAlpine shower trap. https://mcalpineplumbing.com/wet-room-products/tiledstone-floor-gullies/tsg2t6ssc-75mm-water-seal-gully-vertical-outlet-tiled-or-stone-floors

I could never imagine that far ahead when I was asked that question.

We have Lindab guttering and the bracket spacing is 600mm centres.

I wish I'd had a chamfer tool nine years ago when doing all my soil pipes. To cut mine square I wrapped a sheet of A3 paper around the pipe, lining up the edges, and taped it on. I cut them by hand and then used a rasp to chamfer the ends. I used a smear of silicone grease on the chamfer when pushing it home.

We had a 90m2 Isoquick PH slab supplied and installed and it was £18538. This included 250mm compacted type1 and 50mm granite fines laid extending 700mm beyond the perimeter of the insulation. The insulation was 300mm thick and the concrete 200mm thick. This was installed onto a level site with all services ducting and soil pipes already laid. This was nine years ago and was the first to be installed in England so we probably paid a premium.

As an update, I had 54 hooks printed in white nylon by 3DPRINTUK, mentioned by @Temp . I am very pleased with the result. The whole process was completely painless as they keep you informed about your order and the price was reasonable.

HESH rounds were too easy to defeat so died out. Spent many times at live fire exercises on Salisbury Plain as well as trials at Potton Island and Shoeburyness. Amazing I can still hear.

The name doesn't ring a bell although I did know a couple of photographers at the Fort. I shared a flat with one of them in my youth but I still can't remember their names. That's what old age does for you.

That has brought back memories from the 80s of modelling long rod DU penetrators v complex armours along with many different CE and HESH rounds.

+1 for Hardiebacker, we used it in all the bathrooms. It is certainly not the easiest to drill or cut though.

Depends where you live in the UK. Huge difference between NE Scotland and SW England. It's a personal thing. Again, big difference in what people can afford and want.

The weather down here is a lot kinder to us than you. My life wouldn't be worth living if the bedroom temperature went below 21C let alone 16C .

The maximum U factor for PH walls is 0.15W/m2K and I would guess that a house constructed like that, anywhere in the UK, would probably need central heating if only at low level. Our house has walls with U factor of 0.095W/m2K and is heated with residual heat from bathroom towel rails and supplemented with warm air through the MVHR. Most people seem to think we don't have heating because we don't have conventional central heating such as UFH or radiators.

I don't see how it would be possible because the .stl file contains only the triangulated surfaces of the final object not details of all the components that make it up.

If you have mains pressure cold water in the vicinity you could use a venturi shower.We had a Trevi Boost in the bungalow that worked well for the ten years we lived there.

@Pete It's a McAlpine V33WM vented twin waste connector. https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/domestic-appliance-traps-accessories/v33wm-twin-connector

In our house I have a dedicated waste for the appliances in the utility room. The waste has a u-bend and exits into a 110mm soil pipe which goes down through the slab and insulation.

No, nothing as complicated. We try to KIS, so when it's warm in the porch we open the hall door. It's been extremely effective at reducing heating requirement. We've found that solar gain is easily the most effective way of heating the house but unfortunately the weather doesn't oblige very often.