Gone West

@Carrerahill It was several years ago and the product might have changed but I used the Marley Universal Dry Hip/Ridge System. It was pretty straightforward to use. This is the PDF I downloaded at the time, it might be of some use. Marley Eternit Dry Fix Systems.pdf

Excellent.

Openreach disconnection was free. UK Power Networks charged VAT and TBH it wasn't something I thought about, as it was after the VAT reclaim was submitted.

I like 3 best.

I have a dry ridge system and used 150mm stainless steel screws straight into the ridge timber.

I'm surprised that the difference between RWA45 and RWA6, which I used, is so significant. The RWA6 is rigid and from the data sheet the kN/m2 for 10% compression is 3.0 for RWA45, and 28.2 for RWA6.

@Onoff No I haven't done anything yet. I was trying to gauge how straightforward it would be to have them made and what the cost would be. The item is a small extension piece for the top of a vertical blind to allow it to be used on a steep slope. I was thinking possibly ASA as there might be a lot of UV degradation.

Thanks, that would be useful.

It's all in the title really. I may want to have around fifty small plastic hook and eye pieces made and I wondered if it was an easy process to get it done.

My life wouldn't be worth living if I cooled the house down when it reached 24C. The other day Wendy used the pyrolitic cleaning function in the oven and the kitchen temperature went up to 25C, Wendy was basking in there.

Certainly not the best but lasted me six years and cost nothing as surplus 4"x2".

I used Titebond Polyurethane Construction Adhesive. It's expensive but you don't have to worry about damp or cold.

Mine is a portal frame and each individual part of the frame was made in the factory and fitted to the sole plate on site.

+1 for the Stanley stapler. I've had mine for years and easy to use.

Our sole plate is a single 300mm Steico I-beam which has OSB3 web strengtheners bonded underneath at intervals where the plate is bolted to the slab. The 300mm Steico I-beam studs are nailed to the sole plate.

Mine was called a hanger plate, just to complicate things. Was fitted to timber frame though, not ICF

No, there's a lot of sandy clay around here although the geology in this area changes very quickly over a short distance as we are on an old coast line with the marshes. Here, is Overland, which as the name suggests was a raised area of land on the edge of the marshes.

IIRC about a day or so. Mind you it was nearly nine years ago and I was a lot fitter then as I was doing a lot of digging at the time.

There are different types of ASHP and an AC is an air to air ASHP. A2A HPs can provide cold air only or warm and cold air.

Congratulations, very smart. Where did the post box come from?

We also installed ours ourselves with some help from the local farmer. We dug the hole by hand down to the water table then the farmer dug the rest out. We didn't use concrete to hold the tank down but used galvanised irons with chains. The hole was backfilled with type1. The output goes into a reed bed system and then into a soakaway. The air pump housing has the two warning lights and is semi-buried.

Ours is a WPL diamond DMS2 but the air blower plants are all fairly similar. It's the installation detailing where they tend to differ. We have a Harveys block salt water softener which discharges into our utility room waste and into the treatment plant. We've had the treatment plant installed nearly nine years without serious problems.

No, nobody came out as far as we are aware. They seemed happy enough with what we sent. I'm guessing the electricity disconnection certificate was the main evidence they accepted because the listing was removed on that date.

The first floor is 22mm Caberdek and was fitted when the frame was installed. I have 14mm bamboo flooring, on top of the Caberdek, which was the last thing to be installed before I fitted the skirting and door linings. The joists are metal web joists and all the cabling and plumbing go through the joists and up through walls or behind false walls so there are no holes in the bamboo flooring. The position of cables for socket and switch boxes were marked on the floor and were at a consistent height of either 500mm or 1100mm. As Dave has said it's better to cut out the holes, and then skim after, to avoid chipping the skim coat.

To add my tuppence worth. I have a Cramer Fugi 5 piece kit which I use for siliconing. The only place I have found it tricky to use is if I'm trying to do a basin behind a tap. https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/cramer-fugi-applicator-kit-5-piece-711919 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBT3kvbocbc