PeterW

Hi @Ryan8087 - not sure if you've managed to upload the plans correctly ..??

I'd want to embed a T plate into the ICF with it being secured to the concrete and the rebar. This would have 4 No. M16 studs welded to it and then make a template for drilling the corresponding holes into the vertical steel when on site. The plate means you get it perfectly plumb with the lower plate and also stops the steel trying to compress the ICF and ensures everything stays plumb.

Go to a camping place and buy a cheap roll mat for £3-4 and cut that up to provide padding to the cover ...

Depends where you want to do it and what shape ..! It would breach the maximum of 0.5d for an unreinforced hole but could be made to work with a reinforced hole as long as it doesn't exceed 0.6d (d is the steel depth) and is not within 2d of the end of the steel. Round holes are limited to 0.5d in any web so based on your spec you would need to put a rectangular hole 120x180mm at a minimum of 406mm from the end of the steel support (i.e. Where it becomes unsupported) and as long as there are no point loads within 2d of the opening ..... Reinforcing and cutting would need to be done offsite and certified - this is not a job for a Starrett cutter and some angle iron ..!!

I'd reconsider the hot tank location for a number of reasons. 1. Usage - where are the bathrooms in relation to the cylinder ..? 2. Space - what space could be made available in the upstairs ..? Thermal stores can be made in pretty much any configuration as long as you plan how to get them into place. 3. Stove - is the stove a compromise ..? If you insulate well in the new area you will need to get a stove that puts more to water than the room otherwise you will overheat the room. 4. Boiler - if you have unlimited wood why not go with a wood boiler than oil ..? Needs a big thermal store but worth it if the source is "free"

Leave the plastic on the fascia until the last minute. Then just bung the gutter on. Don't forget if you use high capacity gutter you don't need a fall either so you can make it look tidy.

I'll just leave this here ...

Not necessarily .....! Still need the same roof for 1-3 storeys, and in reality you need 10-15% more circulation space in a bungalow as a 2 storey house as you have more ground floor rooms to interconnect. It may be worth building for room in roof usage at a future date, or seeing how best to maximise a footprint. For "eco", the best shapes are simple shapes such as cubes, oriented to make the most of the sun without forgetting about overheating in the summer. And welcome ..!

I'm wondering if the App interrogates the cameras directly or has to interface to the Hikvision NVR first ..? I know the one I use actually "views" the cloud storage provider so is not streaming the video internally, it's doing so via the web.

So a NMA is a per application charge not a per item so get them all in in one go. There is some guidance on this here : http://www.planningofficers.org.uk/downloads/pdf/POS_MWForum_Guidance_NonMaterialMinorAmendments_Final_April2012.pdf Each council usually produces guidance somewhere on their website too.

What about one of these ..? http://www.geekbuying.com/item/TANIX-TX3-MINI-KODI-17-3-S905W-2gb-16GB-4K-TV-Box-384467.html

I'd double the insulation on that - you will not notice the extra 50mm in thickness but will notice it in reduction of heating bills ! Thin joint has been around for a while but you may struggle to find a builder who can use it

+1 Did my own, and because I did I can answer most of the questions that my (private) BCO asks and I've got a great working relationship with him. Where in the UK are you building @Archer..?? Like @Ian says, get the inspector onside now and it may save you money in the long run.

1:80 shouldn't sag if it's packed properly and bedded - it does if you don't support it in situations such as internal soil pipes. Polypropylene pipe sags worse than uPVC as it has a slightly lower melting temperature.

I'd bin the single trap that came with the sink and put independent traps on both the full and half sink, you can then link the dishwasher in where you need to. Those horizontal runs have a nasty habit of growing smelly gunge.

I'd go 1:80 unless you really need the drop with 1:40.

Big decision to take it down and start again but I applaud you for it. There are always niggles that start you looking for the bigger problems - sometimes it doesn't help to look too hard but in this case it sounds like you've done the right thing. I take it that me and @Construction Channel aren't putting the roof on for the first weekend in September .......??

I would max out the size - storing your excess in the tank (immersion at 75c and a TMV on the output) will more than pay for itself over trying to find an additional diversion load. Second option is a buffer tank as the divert load to also use for floor heating and DHW preheat.

@Lesgrandepotato you would only divert after the point you've filtered. You need a pair of automatic gate valves that allow you to divert an amount of flow before it hits the nozzle. This can be used to both control flow and also output. Fairly easy to do with some basic proportional control

Ok cheers !

Which route did you go for registering the site ..?? The one that's linked above or a different route ..??

Ideally you want a pad below the leg or fixing to lift the point above the main deck - only needs to be 10-12mm but then you drill through that to make your connections into the substrate below. This means any standing water will not get near the base of the fixing as you may find that tightening any fixing will compress and distort the GRP. 100mm disks of marine ply epoxied to an abraded part of the deck and then fibreglassed over would work fine, then seal any bolt hole with either CT1 or marine sealant as @Barney12 suggests

£1500 is steep for a set of BRegs drawings as it will only be a floor plan and sections with standard details for the wall / roof junction etc which will probably come from your SIPs provider anyway. I would go building notice and get a copy (download) the LABC technical manual for the details you need for stuff the suppliers don't provide. Private or council BCO..?

What glue @Nickfromwales..?? D4 or something with a bit of give in it ..??

Do what we have done - run a DPC at a higher point on the inside so it forms a "Z" tray from first block down to exterior DPC.