PeterW
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Everything posted by PeterW
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Now that's a plan ..! sometimes its the moral support you need - or being told to fack offf and get your finger out by the Welsh pieboy eh @Nickfromwales..?? -
Ian We spoke yesterday .... he wasn't on site and the promises are being missed. I had the same with joiners and now have a full cut roof, just a little longer than I wanted but done all the same - my answer was to take someone I trusted (in this case my brickie) and work with him to do the roof. As @JSHarris said - JFDI
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Plinth brick cavity construction
PeterW replied to Peter M's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
You may struggle to find a 50mm block as there are very few suppliers who will do them these days - any reason you have to have a 155mm outer wall ..?? -
Correct - they do two valves, one larger one that the heads / valves aren't replaced as easily.
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Plasterboard is 20 then based on that as it's 1/R Block ..? Will need to check ..!
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Correct - a ring circuit. Confused..?? Moi..?? You bet ..!
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Wrists slapped - @JSHarris is correct ..!
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+1 to what Welsh pieboy says - Telford turned around my 500 litre UVC in less than 72 hours. You can go open vent TS (I had a Newark one in the last place) and they are fantastic but copper is expensive ...!
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So if you can get to 5 loops then there is a smaller Esbe valve that you can get a replacement head for (I'm ordering these from Poland shortly) that gives you 21-55c as the current ones only go as low as 35c which may be too warm for a passive spec house. All mine came from Wunda Trade - I used the tray system as I've not got rebar in the slab as it's fibre reinforced traditional slab.
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Ok if this is a replacement for a cast in there is only one adhesive I would trust and that's a Hilti HY200 - it's what it is designed to do. https://www.hilti.co.uk/anchor-systems/injectable-adhesive-anchors/r4803 Hilti tech services are superb - give them a call and explain what you need and they will advise what is the best adhesive as you may be able to get away with a lower spec if the loading is shear rather than axial. Downside is this stuff isn't cheap and needs a Hilti injector gun to install but it won't go anywhere for a long time ..! It's what they use to fix crash barriers onto Motorway bridges ....
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You don't need to do that ..... Neo can output either volt free or 230v signal to the boiler (it's a jumper setting I think) and then link that to a decent SSR or contractor that will then control the immersion.
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As @Alphonsox says it's all to do with heat load. If you have a low enough load then using a 3kw Willis on E7 will work fine. @TerryE is planning something similar too, using Sunamps for DHW. The downside with this for a holiday home (especially if you let it out) is that you don't know what DHW usage you will get from week to week and standard electric tanks can take a while to recover unless you put pairs of immersions into the tank.
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If you do it, turn the blending valve right up so you can't get water stagnating in the Willis. Let the Willis thermostat set the flow temperature.
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Willis is an immersion in a small enclosure - link it between the hot flow and the return from the loops and then turn it down low. Wire into a 13a plug if you need to as it's only 3kw External Immersion Heater (also known as a Willis) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00XLBAAEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vI5Hzb919R4J9 Its an hours job for the plumber.
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164 litres of usable DHW. The other 80 is the heat exchanger contents which is incredibly poor in its design. The "descaling" is basically the ribbed internal tank expanding and contracting and then the scale cracks away. Ours had a lot of scale in the bottom of the outer tank. Newark do a copper TS off the shelf with a big mains pressure coil. http://www.newarkcoppercylinder.co.uk/thermalstore.html I would question if the ACV doesn't need a G3 ticket as the outer is a pressure vessel - for that sort of money you could get a 250 litre UVC and a buffer and get the best of both worlds.
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Insulation is between inner blockwork skin and plasterboard. I suppose this is why I struggle with the derating issue as I can sandwich the cable between insulation and plasterboard and have no problems but when I put it into a duct that should allow airflow it doesn't count .... aaagghhh !!!
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That is assuming the boiler can keep up - there is only 164 litres of water in there and the tank in tank is half the size of a standard coil in a Telford UVC which would have 50% more water in it. Any reason for the TS..??
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Hmmm ... and if the conduit and the insulation are the same thickness ..?? How do they cope with insulated plasterboard then as that is in use a lot these days.
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240 is not a lot of stored water - how many showers etc ..?
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So if you run it as one big zone then having the solar gain on that slab may help you - you can use it to warm other areas as the pipework will even out the heat in the slab. LoopCad can be a bit of a mare - don't be limited by the 100m loop length either, Wunda do 120m coils as well. I've go some spare too if you have any short loops.
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Sorry I've just had a count up - that's a 6 port manifold not a 12 port...! Manifolds come as pairs - flow and return. A 12 port would have 12 loops and 24 pipe connections. 6 ports are pretty standard so should be change of £200 inc pumps and mixers.
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Oh and as a passive spec house you can run the lot as a single system so no actuators required ...
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- pipe spacing
- pipe circuits
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There look far too many loops there ... You've got at best 160sqm of floor which at 200mm spacing would be 800m of pipework. If I take out all your fixed bits then it's 120sqm, worst case then is 600m of pipe so you have an average of 50m of pipe per loop. Each bedroom can be a single loop - no issue there. Two loops to cover the big area on the left, one to cover ancillary areas should be 600m of pipe and the 6 port manifold. I'd take out all the beds/wardrobes etc as @Barney12 said and redo it. Rules are that it shouldn't go under kitchen cabinets, showers, baths or WCs. Anything else is fine.
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All I'm looking to do is run vertical ducts from the ceiling void to the back box between the edges of two bits of 25mm PUR foam board. To fill the gaps and keep it all tight I will then foam over the top - pretty much like you've done with your soil pipe in the wall. Was thinking the duct would give decent mechanical protection for the cables - other option is surface mount and cover with steel cover strip and then foam over.
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Had one and took it out from a commercial set up. It was on an ASHP set up and it wasn't great - watch the actual volume of the tank as the 210 relates to the external tank size and I think the inner tank takes a good 40/50 litres out of that. If you have oil then a big UVC, or get Newark to make you a custom TS that you can shove a couple of immersions into a diversion loads from the hydro.