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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    @Nickfromwales who's former is that for the shower ..? And don't you need a rail or is the customer lying down in the shower ......
  2. PeterW
    The one I'm redoing at the moment has had a rewire in the past and the wires are horizontal between the sockets. No issue apart from they didn't chase the walls so these are 2.5mm ring circuits just in plaster and in the internal corners the wires come out from the corner by 20mm.... Behind the sink base unit was a spur for the boiler that was fed from a double socket which then went back to another single socket on a different spur .... all of it in T&E and not clipped..! Took the sparks longer to take the crap out than it did to do it properly ....!
  3. PeterW
    So you don't need a drain to do that, just a gully down the centre that leads outside - or even creates a T with the outside drain. Only benefit of an inside one is if you are going to have a sink etc in there.
  4. PeterW
    There are companies that specialise in it ..! Otherwise the whole of the van interior has to come out to repair it. Probably find it was given a coat of wood hardener too so will be rock solid.
  5. PeterW
    Architect can spec what he wants ..!! Building Control will only sign off what is correct so they are the ones to consult. If you say you are building it to the detail as shown in BS5250 as per the BBA certificate for the product then you can't exactly go wrong ..!!!
  6. PeterW
    Also depends on your insurer. Some treat the garage as an external space (unless you have BS standard locks on the external main door) so the garage to house door becomes an external door for insurance purposes. That then indicates what is needed by way of locks/ security etc.
  7. PeterW
    Same here ... plan is that 300 litre UVC and a 95 litre buffer get heated by ASHP overnight to 47c/ 38c respectively and then at 5am the immersion will kick in on the UVC to take it to 62c before the E7 cut off at 6:45am allowing the ASHP to start on the heating load. Plan is by 7am the floor should be up to temp along with a UVC at full capacity along with the buffer at 38c. PHE to warm the draw off leaving the UVC to just do the last 10c should mean ample hot water. Boost will be to the UVC by immersion as it's simpler, leaving the ASHP at max CoP on the floor/buffer. Or thats the plan ..!!
  8. PeterW
    I've just ordered a steel door from AJ Doors as per that link. Will be the second one I've fitted and they are fantastic pieces of kit right from the fitters keys through to the quality of the handles and finish. Getting through one will make a lot of noise - pretty much the only way is a grinder through the door itself or cutting every bolt holding it in. Powder coat finish is very good - if needed you could make it part of a pair with the inner being an "ordinary" internal door and the garage side being this one.
  9. PeterW
    So the definitive answer on this should be the BS5250 recommendation. This is the detail on roof construction where there is either a small void above or no void above the insulation. if following either of these the key is that there is a fully sealed VCL below the insulation and no ventilation required if using a full breather membrane.
  10. PeterW
    Ok so he's gone Rolls Royce but hey ... This is what you need to read, specifically the section on roof construction. If it's a warm roof to the ridge i.e. Insulation all the way within the rafters, then no ventilation is needed. Cold roof i.e. Insulation at ceiling level, then you need ventilation. http://www.proctorgroup.com/images/downloads/Condensation-Control/Roofshield/BBA/Roofshield - Warm Roof BBA (96-3220 i8).pdf
  11. PeterW
    I couldn't think of a worse person to make that decision ..... What membrane are you using ..??? And a jack rafter is one that runs from the wall plate up to the hip rafter and doesn't go to the ridge...!
  12. PeterW
    Check the MIs carefully..!! Cromar Vent 3 for example does not need any ventilation. You only leave the 30mm if you have a vented ridge and soffit vents. Breathable membrane in most cases does not need any gaps.
  13. PeterW
    So felt runs horizontally from the bottom upwards. Go from right to left in that picture, wrap over the hip rafter and cut off the excess after the first jack rafter. Go back to the last rafter before the hip and start again, wrapping over the hip roof onto the back. Stop, cut and back to the last jack before the hip and wrap onto the back. Fit your bottom three battens to gauge and start again from right to left, next layer up overlapping the first by the manufacturers recommended allowance. On the ridge I would either cut a piece to cover or wrap the last run from the back over the front.
  14. PeterW
    I may be wrong @graeme m but I thought that using a "certified" product just short circuited part of the process as you didn't need to produce the paperwork to support the product specification..? @craig may be able to advise as that's his area of expertise.
  15. PeterW
    Straight and wrap it over - no issues with multiple layers and as long as it's all bottom up layering with the recommended horizontal overlaps then you will be fine. It does mean you use more membrane but it's not expensive - my roof is ~ 190sqm but with 6 valleys and three dormers I've ended up with using 270sqm of membrane. In some areas it's 4 layers thick as the valleys have the overlap from each side plus two layers of their own but I'm not complaining.
  16. PeterW
    Just to add the only one that I have found to work reliably across all the platforms is Google Drive. One Drive didn't like android, and Dropbox sharing didn't fill me with confidence as I managed to delete someone else's documents once ...
  17. PeterW
    I use Google Drive to keep everything together. The build has a #latest folder at the top that has the latest plans, cost books etc so you know it's the reference version. I only use the google product as I can add to it from the phone and also keep offline versions of documents - I currently have the MVHR unit as an offline copy so I can refer to it for example. Drive allows you to share links too - I have a folder that I move things to if needed but I generally keep it pretty organised. SWMBO on the other hand prefers a cellulose based approach, supplemented by post it flags of varying colours ......
  18. PeterW
    All depends on the membrane too. Cromar for example allow the membrane to touch the insulation. Really need to find the manufacturers declaration of conformity to get the details on how it is designed to operate.
  19. PeterW
    Am I missing something or is it something different to this you want..?? £75 from TLC 1-4 splitter
  20. PeterW
    Or those horrible reclaims we've used that we're +/- 15mm in every dimension ..!! I saw this a while back - you would think it would lay a decent bed and then just butter the perps. Wastage must be huge ..!
  21. PeterW
    Van floor has delaminated over time. Probably an Ace or a Bailey as they were prone to it..! They use a drill with a stop on it to partially drill the floor then inject epoxy resin into the holes. A few carefully placed weights and the whole lot is glued back together...!
  22. PeterW
    Western Power - dig down 450mm to expose your main, connect to the ducting as installed by me (no more than 300mm away) pull cable and terminate less than 2m away... Road dig is an unmade road and I had to redo what they left as it sank ... £1650 please ....
  23. PeterW
    I think you are going to need one per TV to do this and as @JSHarris has outlined the price of £50 per unit it starts to add up especially if you need mouse and keyboard.
  24. PeterW
    @recoveringacademic that Quay Concrete link I posted do a batch mixer and a pump ..... think of your knees ..!
  25. PeterW
    Hand mixed over two cube in about 3 hours - that was 3 of us, one filling the mixer, one barrowing and one levelling Never again ..! The trick is to use gauging boxes so your mix is consistent but mindless in its mixing ... but on your own and without a mozer ..? I think you would lose faith after the first two loads as wet concrete is heavy and awkward to move in buckets.
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