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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    So you need 4 cores not 2 ..?? Buy some of the standard block splitters and hack the wires inside - will give you the 4 core you need but will leave the data cores alone. If you use one of the proper boxes it will isolate the cables correctly so you can’t put 12v down the data lines.
  2. PeterW
    What is the customer plugging into the island ports ...?? Quickest way is to use one of these at the router end : https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-1A-Wall-Plug-POE-Injector-Ethernet-Adapter-IP-Phone-Camera-Power-Supply-UK-/281559782891 Whack one of these on the other end and then you are doing the right thing... https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Power-over-Ethernet-POE-Splitter-10-100mbps-12V-2A-POE-Adapter-for-IP-Cameras-J1-/172862265154 Then splice the power into the LEDs direct if they are 12v
  3. PeterW
    I’ve just had a good look around a new Homebase Kit&Kaboodle kitchen and was impressed. Oddly I thing the build of the flat pack units was better than the pre-built ones ..! Good warranty and they have a decent range of colours.
  4. PeterW
    Exactly my point ..! So get the jig set up property as there is a substantial difference between 89 & 90 degrees over 3m....
  5. PeterW
    They look to be a right angle until you get the 3m of worktop on to them ...!! Read the Jig instructions carefully and let the worktops “sit” properly and then see how it lays out.
  6. PeterW
    £10 says they aren’t right angles...... Knowing how to set the jig up is key - 89 degrees on a corner will give you a big gap to fill over 3m so understanding the jig is the first starting point. The routing bit is the easy bit. Howdens regularly have their economy kitchen fitter router cutters in the £1 offers - they are Trend branded and good for a decent kitchen fit and are disposable at that price. The bit is more important I think than the unit itself - my 1200w 1/2” is perfect for worktops due to its size and is powerful enough to drive a 50mm bit. It’s not as bulky as my mates 2000w Dewalt lump that is heavier but does it a bit quicker.
  7. PeterW
    Sounds like the first one has used the standard rad heat loss calculator for a minimum regs House. What does the heat loss calculator a la @JSHarris say you need ..?? 10kw is a lot of heat ... What are your DHW requirements ...?? 40Kw is a big boiler unless it’s a combi .... and a UVC too..??
  8. PeterW
    Everyone has a different view of perfection .... I built a pretty large extension to our last house and was amused when some friends came over and picked up on a couple of points that I hadn’t seen, or had decided to ignore. Roll forward 18 months and they bought a “beautiful house” from a developer and was asked to do a snagging list for them “to pick up anything they missed”.... I had 3 pages of A4, and some were borderline structural issues ..!!! Yet to them it was “perfect”....
  9. PeterW
    A TPO from the 1950's may not be valid still as they were introduced in a later version of the TCPA. I would also hazard a guess that any tree that has stood for the last 60 years with no maintenance is in dire need of some significant work !! TPOs can be removed - it needs an arb assessment and good reason, but under the DDD rules (dead, diseased, dangerous) you can do that work anyway with 24 hours notice.
  10. PeterW

    Hi

    PeterW replied to Hecateh's topic in Introduce Yourself

    Is that Holy Trinity at Wentworth in the distance ..?? It’s a very distinctive steeple there ..!
  11. PeterW

    Resin bound

    PeterW replied to Hecateh's topic in Driveways

    Sureset trade packs work out to about £30 sqm but the issue with all of the resin bound systems is they need a solid base. Some will work with type 1 but most need concrete which doubles the price .
  12. PeterW
    Yeh sorry @ProDave..!! I looked at the bleedin heat alarm ..!! CO is rectangular but at 6.3m up I don’t think anyone will care ....
  13. PeterW
    Aico CO are round ........ or the one I bought last week was I’m sure ..!!!
  14. PeterW
    Errrr no...!! Hep2O all the way ..! You May find Wickes and B&Q Tradepoint are cheaper to Hep2O currently with a discount card
  15. PeterW
    Kidde do one but it’s 9v only I think. They also do a decent range of linking ones also bear in mind the CO sensor requirement for location is different to that of a smoke alarm ...
  16. PeterW
    Got to ask why.... CO is only needed where there is a combustion device (stove, fire, boiler) so unless you've got a lot of those then you shouldn't need them in every room..?
  17. PeterW
    Tap con usually has an “inner flange” that goes inside the tap itself. You may find they won’t fit into the entries on the shower ...
  18. PeterW
    300 litre HP ASHP with additional 3kw immersion (so 2x immersion) was £845 delivered.
  19. PeterW
    Yes ... as long as you put it in in CAPITALS..!!
  20. PeterW
    3/4 iron or tap connector ..,?
  21. PeterW
    It would be the wrong way to do it. Having a UVC sat at 45c - or the most you want an ASHP pushing heat out at - is fine. That would need a weekly legionella cycle to take it to 65c but easily done with an immersion. With the UVC it’s the main body of water that is at mains pressure - a TS has the opposite and does use the coil to preheat. TS is only really useful in this instance if you have multiple heat sources and also use it for buffering for UFH etc. If you pushed to a 400 litre UVC with a heat pump coil it’s unlikely you would need the LPG at all - heat to 60c overnight with E7 and a combination of HP and immersion’s and you probably have enough stored hot water for a full day. It removes the complexity of having LPG and the ongoing service and maintenance costs
  22. PeterW
    Sorry - I meant the wireless IR repeater that @ProDave has mentioned ..!
  23. PeterW
    Just use a 3/4 x 22 bent connector and then a 22 x 15 push spigot reducer ....
  24. PeterW
    Will full fill be acceptable on clay ..?? You could create a steel ring beam sat on the brick and then insert timber joists into this - It would isolate the damp but still be the same depth. Alternative is to tank the top side and then use a normal treated timber build up - doesn’t remove your damp issue but does make it easier to manage. I would find the source of the water first though as doing this could make the solution very simple.
  25. PeterW
    Only needs one - in the return next to the boiler
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