PeterW

I think you now need them for Part L Cheapest ones are from BES - and they are pretty good. Intaklean brand ones and are well made https://www.bes.co.uk/intaklean-2-magnetic-filter-22mm-22807

Thats the same as the Timloc one I think. If it is, I’ve got spares I think but won’t know til the weekend.

Playing devils advocate here.... If Genvex sell a unit into the UK market then their MIs should provide for a safe and compliant install as the unit has to be CE marked. To meet that standard it is required to be installed in a manner to meet the regulations of that country. So whilst I take on board what @Nickfromwalessays, I do wonder if this is not actually a standalone UVC, but is actually a complete unit with systems that when installed using the MIs, is compliant with the regulations.... I think an email to the manufacturer asking for the correct installation instructions to meet the UK regulations would be the quickest - and safest - method. And @PeterStarck - nice tidy pipework ..! Are they Speedfit manifolds..??

pretty sure they should be filled in parallel to you backfilling them as it stops the soil/concrete crushing them ..! If it’s in the ground it should be full already ..!

@Nickfromwales I’m confused .... the T&P and EV are on the potable side on the UVC, but you suggest you don’t need one on the heating circuit ...????

Take the Fermacell wall out ..!!! It’s easily repaired and you won’t notice it’s been done. Start taking tiles out and you’re in a world of pain ...

Nice to know that SkyQ only needs to be the wired one - Ethernet goes to both the bedroom and kitchen where the Q-Mini boxes will reside. Anyone know of a decent sky repeater as there is no way that lump is going in the lounge...!!

The warranty company should have issued a specification of inspections - basically listing out at the start what they want. The BCO/inspector can only request additional inspections if either the work is not complete or they issue a remediation notice and require an inspection of the remediated work before the next stage. I use a private BCO and he’s brilliant - on hand for both advice and to take a pragmatic approach to inspections....

115 or 60/55 Euro Lock’s are now fairly common - I use a place in Liverpool and get keyed alike and master keyed locks without a problem. I prefer master locked ones ones as it means you can give one key to someone and it doesn’t allow access elsewhere. The locks fitted to Lathams steel doors come with a master, two “fitters keys” and 5 ordinary keys. If you use the master it disables the two temporary keys and then only the ordinary ones work. I’d like to see if these are available for normal doors as it would help in a lot of situations.

I thought SkyQ and the SkyQ mini boxes worked over WiFi ..?! after seeing what a Sky “engineer” can do to a door frame (yep, drilled uPVC as it was “easier” than brick...) then there is no way I will let them install anything in a new house other than in a comms room that already has ducting in place ..!!!

Just watch PlumbNation with delivery charges - seen them at over £70-80 on some things.

It’s not for heat... it’s for sound ..! Hence why it’s not in Part L, I think it’s in Part E...

I’ve got a 500 HP and it’s not that tall - they get fatter rather than taller as they get bigger (bit like @Nickfromwales really .... ) Your issue may be the EV - 100 litre floor standing one is a bit of a beast ..!!

I prefer Laco and then a proper wipe with a moleskin and I never seem to get a problem ..??

... and get a decent pipe slice ..!! No hacksawing copper..!!

Believe it or not, it’s easier to do an end feed fitting than a solder ring ..!! Quite easy for a novice to overheat a solder ring and blow the solder out... Rothenberger or Bernzomatic torches aren’t cheap but will last a lifetime - I now only use MAPP gas too as it’s hotter and quicker but I also use them for lead welding. Get yourself a handful of end feed fittings, some Laco flux and some copper offcuts and practice ..! Green kitchen scourers are the best for cleaning pipe too - make yourself an apprentice cube ...

... and now you know why I won't fit that Honeywell rubbish !!!

I can see it now .....

Section 75 has no limit - don’t worry ..! @ryder72 may be able to direct you in the direction of a replacement door supplier. Other option is you contact another Alno distributor and see if they have any as showroom units as they are pretty much worthless now.

T’internet says yes ..! Poly-x and the other oil classed as hardwax

Ta - is Osmo classed as a hardwax oil ..?? I’ve got some worktop that said it’s treated with a hardwax oil but no idea what that is ..!!

Looks good - where is that worktop from ..?

My sloping loft roof is Frametherm 40 at 190mm plus 25mm Kingspan over the top. BCO said they would accept VCL as the Celotex taped however its been much easier to use plastic sheet to create the VCL and then Kingspan over the top. If I can find some decent tape we will also Aluminium tape over the Kingspan joints for twice the air tightness ..!!

Right they are 2 port valves ... the one that goes to the heating, does it have a lever on it ..? If so, slide it across - will hear the motor whine - and then lock it into the clip. If it won’t go all the way across then it’s the valve at fault. With the valve open the heating should start up and the rads should get warm.

Thanks @jamiehamy Any of those on fire doors ..?