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  1. Thanks for the swift response Tennentslager! Screwfix do a fitting https://screwfix.com/p/flexible-tap-adaptors-15mm-x-2-pack/2665R?tc=YS1&ds_kid=92700020953279985&ds_rl=1249799&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=CjwKCAjw9-HZBRAwEiwAGw0QcQF5i2PhH3QEPYda6QZ2UjBHel_lgB9510U0w-P1KJfJhMALtBoRMBoCK8wQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNSqrOjP_dsCFQdj0wod6TwO1Q Your advice sounds simpler. I guess the key thing is not to screw the isolator fitting in too hard as its face is designed and cut to take an olive so is slimmer than the flat face of the Screwfix type fitting?
  2. Hello, I'm trying to connect a monobloc tail to my 15mm copper supply and include a butterfly isolator. The monobloc tail has a female lower end with a rubber seal in it. The isolator has the standard 15m compression fitting. The thread of the male end of the isolator and the female end of the flexi tail are compatible. Will I be able to get a good seal by just screwing the isolator into the flexi tail or should I use a tap connector or some other fitting between them? I suppose my question is "How do I correctly connect monobloc flexi tail to an isolator valve?" Any advice would be appreciated!
  3. Thanks for the MiniSun link. I found this MiniSun product on the Value Lights website (MiniSun's retail website) : https://www.valuelights.co.uk/5w-led-fire-rated-tiltable-gu10-downlight-white-no-bulb.html I spoke to the sales rep and he confirmed the BS5250 compliance of these. Valulights say that all there products conform to the Regulations. They also advised that the fitting should have 100mm above it, clear space and 100mm around it, with no light closer than 200mm. Seems like a good company to me. I searched for the Building Regs on downlights but found a lot of complicated stuff that would take some time to digest! I'll check with the Building Control Officer on Monday.
  4. Thanks for the replies. The fitting can be found at https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FRSG10W.html
  5. I'm about to fit downlights in my new kitchen extension and have found some good ones from TLC with a directional fitting, fire rated to 90 minutes, are acoustically rated and take Halogens or LEDs. I've got the void height to fit them. The void is also packed with wool insulation (to increase the acoustic insulation as bedrooms are above it.) If I fit LEDs as I intend then there won't be a lot of heat generated. However, the suppliers were reluctant to advise on whether the insulation should allow for a void around the fitting in case heat is generated. Can anyone advise, please? Are there specific fitting requirements? Is it a Building Regs thing?
  6. I'm at the stage where I'm going to use a floor levelling compound and would appreciate any advice or information. I have approximately 20 square meters of a floor to level in my new kitchen/diner. Part is finished in the existing quarry tiles and part in the new floor slab. There is a damp proof membrane under the floor that conforms to building regulations. The variance in height from low to high is about 20mm. The plasterboard/skim is in place and I have left a minimum 25 mm gap between the floor and the plasterboard. No dot and dab is showing under the boards to bridge the gap. Once in place, an engineered wood floor will be laid. Looking at the Mapei website the Ultraplan Maxi looks like it will work given the height differences on my floor. http://www.mapei.com/public/GB/products/510- ultraplanmaxi-uk.pdf I'd be really grateful for any points to watch out for, product recommendations, things to do and things not to (Like making sure I don't end up in the corner with no door!); techniques for laying and finishing, mixing, handy tools etc. I will, of course, read the product instructions carefully! Also, should I think about adding another damp proof membrane to the formula on top of the floor levelling before the flooring goes down?
  7. Sorry to ask after all these helpful comments but can someone just do a bit of jargon busting for me? What are: UVC Copper TS ftw Sunmap Buffer tank. Many thanks!
  8. Thanks Nick, very helpful. Yes, It's an open, vented system. Mains pressure isn't exactly explosive here but higher than my hot water pressure. I'll have a word with my plumbing supplier when I buy the tap.
  9. Thanks for the reply Nickfromwales and yes, I'll hold off buying until I get the tap! We heat water on Economy 7, plus with a small water jacket on our multi-fuel stove to top this up.
  10. Thanks for the reply Onoff. I've just seen some flexible connectors, with a built-in isolating valve from Wicks online. 500mm long so should do the job well. Any advice on balancing pressures or including a non-return valve in the system? https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Flexible-Compression-Connector-With-Isolating-Valve---15-x-12-x-500mm/p/160137
  11. I'm going to fit a single mixer tap to my kitchen sink when it arrives but wanted to get started on the required plumbing. With separate hot and cold taps, they seem to be a fairly standard 180mm apart. However, if I'm supplying hot and cold water to a mixer then how close should the feed pipes be? Is there a recognised standard? Maybe there are flexible connectors available so it's not so important to set a precise distance? Will I need to have a balance between the hot and cold supply pressures or will the tap do this for me? Any information or advice would be great!
  12. ... we've got a TLC Direct about 25 miles away but at £3.60 for a next day delivery, I'd probably get it delivered and save my fuel. Over £50 it's free! I had a poke around on their website and the prices are good plus they do loads of other things, including lighting. Wish I'd known about them before. Thanks for the tip.
  13. Thanks for your reply Nickfromwales. Useful advice and I'm checking out round to oblong/square converters now. The extractor I have in mind has a round outlet. The converters seem to be available but it's just a matter of finding the right sizes.
  14. I'm just looking at the types of integrated kitchen extractor fans as I start to conclude my kitchen extension and I'm trying to find out whether they generally have round ducting requirements or an oblong section. I've seen converters on the web to go from round to oblong but it would be helpful to know what manufacturers generally start with on the appliance. I'm running the ducting along the top of the wall cupboards so want something that looks neat.
  15. Thanks for the replies, all very useful. My slab does have a dpm (and the building control officer checked it all out). However, I've been advised to think about another dpm before I put the underlay down for the wood floor. Is this a breathable membrane or could I use the can of Black Jack bitumen emulsion that I've got? Guessing that I could use this to seal the floor/wall junction as well? I'll allow 25mm (1") from the slab to the plasterboard, which should allow sufficient clearance for any self-levelling compound that runs back to my blockwork, under the plasterboard line.