PeterW

I love T2 Rectorseal..... lets just leave that there...

@Cpd So your UFH is solved with these https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/20mm-eps-400-overfloor-board/ Over the top of 90mm of Celotex they will let you add a tile with room to spare. They also do one for wood flooring.

DIY SOS meets BuildHub...... wonder if @Nickfromwales is really Nick Knowles in disguise .....

Congratulations ..!! Really good news ..! Now the real hard work starts ...!

PD doesn’t kick in until after sign off. What you can do is make your life easy, frame out all the openings and trial fit the Velux and then put temporary battens etc over the hole. Plug and fill from the inside for your air test and then as soon as you get sign off you fit them under PD. This is also assumes you haven’t had PD removed as a planning condition ..!

I do hope you didn’t pay that for it ..!!! RRP is £65 and a cylinder is £8 for propane, £11 for MAPP. The swirl tip on those isn’t the best - the one on the Bernzomatic is better and usually cheaper too.

That’s not non-material so you would need PP. Looking at that and knowing your floor plan I would just leave it alone as that’s a structural change too.

Unless it’s visible, don’t use copper..!!! go to Hep2O from the start and just do it once and forget it. Underfloor copper sweated joints are not for a beginner and you will create yourself problems. By the time you’ve bought a Rothenberger trigger torch, decent pair of pipe slices and a few bits and bobs you will be in for £100 and that’s a LOT of Hep2O and fittings. Leave copper to those who really need to do it - Hep2O is near foolproof and that’s what you need in a rental.

Garage as part of the house has meant it was pretty easy to include it in the insulated envelope. The downside is the door as budget won’t run to a fully insulated door so it will get retrofitted with some PIR and possibly an aluminium inner skin.

32mm Nitrile Rubber insulation (Armaflex, InsulTube etc) will comfortably fit both the 22mm flow and 10mm return for a HWC. Means that losses are lessened too.

@JSHarris has a really good one on his blog. I’ve got a simplified version but I’ve got to say the one Jeremy has is better and more accurate. Your options on walls are varied but I would really look at that floor and try and get some insulation plus UFH into it as it will work much better with the ASHP.

A mix of industrial dehumidifiers and heaters may be what you need here to keep moisture levels low and heat high. If the front door is only sheeted, consider getting a couple of sheets of 100mm insulation from the merchants and make a solid insulation “plug” with it as that will help retain heat

@nod that looks like an AJ Doors one ..! Mine went in really easy as it was all plumb but they are at least a 2 man lift ..!!!

When did you last turn the router off..?? and what are the IP lease times set to ..?? I always set really long lease times and have no real issues tbh. Fixed IPs can resolve some of this if you’ve got a single router and you assign the numbers at the top of the ranges. Also worth changing your channel to a lesser used one if you can change them.

That’s expensive compared to the same thing from Wunda that includes the EPS panels. https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/kits/overfloor-kits/50m-eps400-single-room-overfloor-kit/

I’m not sure even that LLH is correct as it’s behind the 3 way valve and there are what looks like tee’d returns into the manifold return before that. If that’s the case then that air rad is probably not going to get anything like the flow it needs as it’s reliant on back pressure elsewhere in the system to force the flow into it which the LLH is designed to eliminate ... Also if the rad is tee’d off before the diverted valve, then it will get heat during the DHW cycle too..!

I've got a calibration certificate here... What would you like it to say.....?

So basically all your floor loops are directly linked to the ASHP and the pumps only run when the ASHP is on. Hence why you can’t change the flow as it’s the ASHP that is dictating the flow temperatures.

Nope Different clip fittings from memory

Thats a low loss header .... Got a photo of the manifold itself and the pump that drives the flow around the circuits ..??

0035232551000..... used to work out there !

Looks like you have ducked that one.... https://www.milton-keynes.gov.uk/planning-and-building/planning-policy/community-infrastructure-levy-and-s106

In a word ... No...! you need 15/16mm adapters and you may find the price difference disappears at that stage. Hep2O can be had pretty cheaply - 60p/m for 15mm iirc.

Ahhh the joy of tree fencing ..! That’s permanent Heras or similar. I’ve got a copy of the BS guidance if you want it to do your site plans for fencing. There is an anomaly in there in that (as usual) they have said you need to put fencing in place before any works, yet it’s likely you will need to undertake works to get the fencing and openings in ... Nice to see that as soon as you have ground levels agreed you can get the slab in, as all above ground is approval prior to this stage, not prior to commencement. Do you have a CIL liability..?

So given how long enforcement takes the council will be “evicting” you about 2-3 months after you have moved out ...