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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    If they meet corner to corner and that will be a single render panel then I would look to break the joint and put a movement / expansion gap at that point. Render up to both sides of it with a stop bead and then fill the gap with a suitable sealant. Use something like this with the end bent up. https://www.twistfix.co.uk/slip-ties
  2. PeterW
    We’ve gone for Ikea appliances as I’ve not had any issues with them and they have a 5 year warranty. They also do offers for Ikea family card holders, so far that’s saved us £320 off £900 of appliances which is pretty good in my book ..! That’s for induction hob and pyrolytic liner ovens.
  3. PeterW
    I’ve not decided what to do with a backup but I’m considering a short immersion in the buffer tank so that if the ASHP does pack up we have something else. It may be that this goes in sooner rather than later to let me start putting some heat into the slab.
  4. PeterW
    Surprised that it was only the Hep2O causing that. Open systems with F&E tanks caused a lot of issues, as did a mix of lower quality radiators and boilers with “new” aluminium heat exchangers. A constant source of oxygenated warm water and a nasty mix of metals was a recipe for lots of corrosion ..!
  5. PeterW
    Brass thing with red wheel on the top ....
  6. PeterW
    No - plumber speak for cheap as £&!# pipe .... Not strictly needed but you can get some oxygenation of the water and corrosion but it takes decades ... leave those gate valves alone too - short length of 22mm copper in each valve, same with the rad tails and then replace the lot with Hep2O. Get some decent pipe shears too ...
  7. PeterW
    Which “stuff” do you want identifying ..?? The grey fittings look like PlumbSure or similar - usually from the likes of B&Q. That rad valve looks to have a weep from the spindle but nothing serious unless there is a pool of water I can’t see..?
  8. PeterW
    What are you using to log the temperatures @Trw144 ..?
  9. PeterW
    It’s called the Approved Inspector scheme and you can get a lot of decent ones, and some are not so good ... just ask @curlewhouse..! You mention mortgage - do you need a warranty too ..?? If so, a lot of the warranty companies do a combined service for warranty and building control inspections. It’s what I have and the provider of the inspections (Meridian) have been brilliant
  10. PeterW
    So we have a dummy thermostat in a building I manage - you turn it up and hear the “click” but it does nothing .... and no-one ever says it’s cold..!
  11. PeterW
    It’s only needed to keep the mice/bugs/newts out if you do seal it as water can’t flow up hill .....
  12. PeterW
    Found it ...
  13. PeterW
    Our box had a hole in the bottom of the front flange to allow the cable to enter - no hockey stick at all for Western Power .! They also have a wedge shaped connector with the fuse in it - really neat way to get the tails onto the meter.
  14. PeterW
    I’ve got some magnum soffit board hanging about if you want some to try it ..? It’s 9mm rather than the 16mm of the fascia
  15. PeterW
    Ok - it’s a new build if, and only if, the planning permission instructs you to retain the facade wall. If not, you can end up as a very expensive restoration and no way to reclaim the VAT I would knock the lot down and build the stone as a new inner thin skin
  16. PeterW
    I’ve got to ask..... why do you need to leave the front facade if you’re using EWI as it won’t be seen ..!! You may also have VAT issues - be careful !
  17. PeterW
    Aaaahhhh ..!!! 25m is miles away in tree terms unless the branches come over your plot ..?! Only issue will be the hedge but unless it has any trunks above 75mm diameter at 1.5m above ground it’s not classed as a tree so just crack on ....
  18. PeterW
    Usually use Tek screws - will self drill through anything really.
  19. PeterW
    Ok - if you are working near trees with a TPO then you need a decent tree survey that will keep the council arboriculture manager happy ... Have you got any planning restrictions on the trees ..??
  20. PeterW
    Hi Have you got a site plan that shows the footprint of the house and the trees..?? Ash in Clay is not a good mix - I would be taking them out ...
  21. PeterW
    Probably find it’s in their T&Cs anyway ...!
  22. PeterW
    It’s to stop you playing a game and going elsewhere with a spec for beams. It’s a competitive market, they have done design and engineering work for you as part of the cost, why would they do that for free and let you go to a competitor and they have a cost with no sale ..?? They may also have to get a further SE sign off of the design so if they change the spec the cost may change too. What you are buying may be a series of “standard” products but the implementation is bespoke to your design - it’s not unreasonable to expect there to be an element of variation in cost.
  23. PeterW
    Go for 450 and stick a duct in it - warning tape over the top and job done.
  24. PeterW
    Funny you say that ..... now considering tiling the whole of the floor before the half height stud wall goes in as it will mean that in the event the kitchen does get changed, the floor will be in tact and not need re-laying ... Sounds like a change of plan to me ..!
  25. PeterW
    What is the opinion of the collective about plasterboarding behind the kitchen base units...? I'm considering leaving it off as it means I can first fix the hot and cold pipework now rather than wait until I've got boards on the walls. There are no wall units going up so it only gives me a saving of a couple of boards but its more a time issue. Thoughts..?
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