PeterW

So..... slightly controversial but run a pair ..??? 25mm dedicated to your new house and then a 32mm that feeds “the rest” and that way you are guaranteed your own supply ..??

So why not drop the rest to 32mm ..?? If you’ve got to dig it out, just dig and replace ..?

Need to take a quick photo of ours but similar to @ProDave and @joe90 I have a mitsubishi unit. I'm making the plenum from MDF and this will be fitted to the back of a bedroom wall so lined with acoustic foam but even with the unit running the sound is barely noticable.

Oh and if you’re using a sweeping brush or roller, please please please wear eye protection ..!!! Cement and sand in the eye is not what you need..!!

Careful with the 90/100 as it’s a straight pipe, not the flexible socket adapter for the WC so you may need the first one.

@JIH this is from Geberit : Yes there is part number 366.887.16.1 – straight adaptor Tell the plumber to still use the pan connector already supplied and instead of installing the 90 degree bend connect (push fit) the straight adaptor on to the pan connector . £19.22 (+VAT) – To purchase the part directly from Geberit - please call 01926 51 68 07 (Sales Department) – quote the part number – pay for it – and the part will be sent to you. Hope that helps ..??

You need helical fixings for exterior insulation when it’s thick. Wood screws over 150mm become unwieldy and also provide cold bridges.

Most vinyl can’t, the only ones that can are the ones with high volumes of solids ie Rhino, Altro etc as the resins and polymers just aren’t dense enough to stop the pressure. Given the force through a stiletto is around 20 times that of a car parking on your floor, it’s unlikely most things can stand it ...

So work out where the cabinets will go and either put more battens or just use long screws into the OSB behind everything. With 12.5mm plasterboard you are only talking about a 120mm screw and they aren’t expensive.

Any reason for 50mm..? 32mm is fine for long runs.

Yep... wood screws ..! I would use a light bead of spray foam on the edges to make an airtight join and then batten back at 600mm centres, 400mm is better. Batten is 25mm, insulation is 40mm at best and they will be 12.5mm OSB sheathed so a 5x80mm wood screw would be fine. Put them 150mm from each end of the batten then at 300mm centres. Walls could have slightly shorter screws due to thinner insulation but TBH I would go 40mm everywhere as the cost difference is negligible and it saves you buying two thicknesses

I don’t think that will fit into the Sigma / Duofix frames but let me check. And no issues with 90 that close to the pan as you’ve got the flush speed ..!!! Mine goes back under the pan ..!!

Don’t forget it needs a “dead flat” subfloor so it is going onto concrete then you will need to put self levelling compound down so factor that into any pricing.

The Duofix outlet can be shortened and dropped into a 90 bend that can be directed anywhere - that’s about a 210mm drop from centreline so would mean both of yours would work fine although it may cost you a fair bit for a 90 degree opposes double tee for the soil stack ..!!

The problem you may find with using your own hinges and finding glass locally is a lot of these need cut outs in the glass. We had one where we found some really nice hinges but the cut out was so complex the local glass supplier said he couldn’t do it and couldn’t guarantee the shapes. I’ve used these people before for glass hardware - very good and quick delivery. They do a wall profile for 6mm glass that would mean you could get your own cut and polished / tempered locally as it works with plain glass. Beware anyone saying you can just clamp 8/10mm glass that tall without holes to retain it ..!!! https://www.kerolhardware.co.uk/wall-mounted-shower-door-hinges/alluminium-pivot-hinge-for-6mm-glass-shower-door-no-drilling.html

We have 5.4m with a width of 4.5m but the room is only 3.8m long. It’s part of a bigger room that is 7.5m long.

@CC45 the Hotun has all its certs for a G3 install but remember if you have more than one PRV into it you have to run 22mm min depending on length. If you go to plastic 32mm it has to be Polypropylene (look for PP marking) and not ABS solvent weld.

Attic window in the gable wall ..?? You’re only talking about an extra foot or so - you could make the surround of the window flared as a feature.

I wouldn’t bother. Unless there is a reason, I would come back to the first truss and build a stud wall and make that the end of the airtight box. Easier and simpler to do too.

It could just be poor flow set up. I would make sure you have a good 3 bar in the system and close all the actuators or remove them. Then run the pump at full speed to clear the air from the circuits one by one as it may take some time. Have you got an auto vent somewhere high up in the system ..? I’d look to clear the air from the circuits one at a time - even the good ones - and then go back to putting the actuators on. Who balanced the flows on the manifold ..?

You can’t use site recycled concrete or brick under slabs as it’s classed as unknown waste so doesn’t meet any specification. You can use it under paths and driveways though with no issues.

Like @JSHarris I’ve come to the conclusion that ASHP over 45c is pretty pointless as it just goes to defrost too often. So I will be using the ability of the ASHP to take a variable flow temperature and run the floor buffer at 38c and the hot water tank at 45c. Every night I will boost from 5:30 - 7:30 from 45c to 65c using immersion on E7. That leaves the ASHP to start heating the floor and buffer so everything is warm by 7am. This is a W Plan in reverse too as if the hot water tank needs topping up it will be by the boost immersion for an hour.

I always wondered if you could stick some of that trace heat tape on the condenser and as the temperature reached 0c then trigger it to come on for a short while. It would mean that you’d have to be careful in winter but the logic was it would self control. Or am I talking rubbish ..?!

Mine connected the meter with only the box in the cabinet next to it and a main switch that had no other connection. No certificates and no questions ....

Don’t use bleach !! Get some chlorine shock tablets off eBay or from a pool supplies company and dose the tank. Keep the ball valve closed and drain the tank through a low tap and refill. Do it two or three times and then rinse all the pipes through. As JSH says if you can only get bleach then only use the unthickened and unscented stuff ..!