PeterW

Yes if you either have a concrete block wall for it to land onto, or use steels to support the top

Qinetic also do a flood light with built in receiver if you need more light with less wires. They can be switched by up to 24 switches from memory and make a really simple retrofit solution.

@Nickfromwales clear CT1 doesn’t change colour does it ..?? Other option is grey or black, both are suitable for outdoors.

Use clear CTI as the edge is nice and crisp. And white discolours.

Ok so that may well meet the definition of a conservatory as I’m pretty sure the “wall” element when it’s referred to is that as built, not necessarily the supporting walls. I’m sure this is the case as a corner conservatory by definition only has 50-60% glazing at best in its walls. @Adam Smith I hope you have deep pockets as that looks like very expensive structural glazing ...

What is the reason for wanting SIP..? It’s not an easy material to work with and the benefits are borderline especially on something with detail such as you’ve described. What are you trying to achieve..?

Use 400mm centres with a non standard one at one end. It simplifies boards and other materials.

There are so many types of “self builder” that it becomes near impossible I expect to define. Some call giving a big cheque to a builder to do a turn key a self build, and at the other end there are the people who do everything themselves. Some need the architect to do the plan and they can construct it, others fit in the scale from the “designed and built it myself” to “I painted the downstairs WC”... It does beg the question about how many there are out there though that truly “self build”

Other than the hole on the top right, none of that is deep enough to worry about. It’s bits crumbled away but the remainder is sound from the looks of it. Also looks like someone has had a go already with a cement based mortar over the top, probably what has fallen out. To do it properly you need to rake it out to at least 25-30mm depending on the pointing finish and clean out the joints and repoint it properly. Put a 5-10mm skim over those joints and it’s going to fall off in 12 months.

So... it’s from between 1990-96 as they stopped making the 40 series in 1996.. so at best it’s 23 years old ..!! I’m surprised it is still going as the carb diaphragms perish so it’s not surprising that it’s leaked fuel. I’d guess that the fuel pipes have gone and it’s spread fuel around the casing that’s flared when the exhaust has got hot.

Stihl isn’t what it used to be... a lot are US made and quality is shocking. I switched to Husqvarna a couple of years ago as I got fed up with Stihl saws not running or chewing cylinder liners. And that was with Stihl oil too ..!

He’s a theatre set and lighting designer... and apparently an Honorary Fellow of RIBA..!

Aren’t these the sort of thing they designed to do that ..? https://ewistore.co.uk/shop/spiral-anchors/

A393 seems a bit.... big ..!! Normal is A142 which is 6mm bar, that is 10mm bar so will need some kit to cut it.

Stainless fixings for me, drilled and plugged into the wall sounds reasonable.

Try 147x47 Its “old” 6x2 And yes, tantalized is treated

I saw that too. @gc100 when they state “manifold” is that just the brassware or are they also including the pumps and blending valves as they can add £2-300 per manifold depending on spec.

You said you were building an extension ..? As part of that, create an enclosure as part of the building that has an external door and the ability to hold 6 meters and the supply head. Only would need to be 300mm deep at most.

Sprinklers are very good at protecting the inner rooms and also keeping smoke down but do very little for a fire in the wall structure.

I’d be hacking a space out of the extension for some sort of meter cupboard as you’re going to need something.

Ok so you can’t go to 65c (standard cylinder temp) with a standard ASHP without secondary heating or a HT ASHP. Their calculation will be based on a standard high recovery cylinder that is heated by a gas or oil boiler. An ASHP can’t keep up with the usage that a family will give a 200 litre tank, and a 300 would be much better. They are correct that it will take longer to heat but it will also mean you could heat it overnight on E7 and not have to recharge at peak rate.

Fitted an 1800x800 Trojan double ended (into a deck but they do panels) and really impressed with quality and thickness of the bath. And was very reasonable / paid £162+VAT for Trojan Cascade DE https://trojan-baths.co.uk/trojan-baths/#double_ended_baths

Thanks @Declan52 that is exactly what I was trying to describe...! @zoothorn a cantilevered 6x2 will comfortably take the load of a deck you’re talking about here for a metre or so - add a couple of angled supports down from the edge to the posts too and it will be even stronger.

I’d go the other way with the infil joists and hang them off the side rails. You can work from the “hill” side so less to wave around and then board and joist as you go. Use 6x2 tanalised timber with timber hangers and you won’t go far wrong.

A cheap copper cylinder will work fine - direct one with an immersion may help too for redundancy. Simple pipework but a buffer cannot go over 1.5 bar in reality so watch your system pressures or you will pop the bottom on a copper cylinder.