PeterW

Grid switch in a larder cupboard with 20A marked Schneider switches, all run to either the dedicated socket they manage or a spur for stuff such as ovens. Each oven has its own RCBO circuit also.

Please remember that Glyphosate 360 is actually a commercial product, and should be used with caution !! This is the warning from most of the products : Safe Use of Pesticides The purchaser and/or end users are responsible for ensuring that these products are used in line with industry Approved Codes of Practice. All operators must be trained and certificated in using and applying any Ministry Approved professional product. You must ensure the end user of these products complies with the DEFRA/HSE Code for the Safe use of Pesticides: "By law, everyone who uses pesticides professionally must have received adequate training in using pesticides safely and be skilled in the job they are carrying out." Do not think that mixing it double or triple strength will make it work quicker - it won't !!

Yep entirely agree with that !

Battery guns also suffer from cold - batteries last less time. I have a Paslode so I’m biased, but I now only use Paslode gas and nails (Screwfix sometimes being cheapest) and I wouldn’t use anything else. If I was kitting out again I would go with an air nailer as they are much lighter (even dragging a hose) and you can get them for £60-70 for a decent one. A good compressor is £250, and you can also get other finish nailers, staplers etc so it’s a decent useful purchase. I know a lot of the US based framers and roofers swear by air tools and you can see why once you’ve tried them.

Only if you’re using E7 and want to make sure you take your E7 usage to the wire as they use GMT time clocks so you need to be careful with the shoulder hours.

Its not illegal for good reason and some of this depends on the cost of capital. If you’re paying for a day rate, then I would expect BM trips etc to be kept to a minimum as otherwise a £5 box of screws can cost you £20 by the time travel time is taken into consideration. Adding on a margin is not unusual as it could well be that specific jobs require research, ordering etc, none of which you probably “pay for” in a day rate. There is also the cost of holding stock for things where you don’t purchase for a job but have to buy in bulk. Customer supplied parts can be an even bigger issue, where a customer picks a certain tap or shower and asks you to fit it. You find it doesn’t come with the correct fittings, it been opened and someone has gone through all the bits “to see how it works”, or it’s damaged in the box. At that point, the customer wonders why when you said a couple of days it becomes three, and their eBay special purchase now starts to look expensive ....

I’m looking at using an ozone generator for a rainwater tank but struggling because the air pumps don’t seem powerful enough to reach 8-900mm depth needed to get the air stones into the bottom of the tanks. Other thought is to change the design and allow it to recirculate between the tanks and put an ozone Venturi injection in the recirculating loop.

I got a replacement obscure fitting from Shower Glass - seem to sell pretty much everything https://www.shower-glass.co.uk/

You would replace the 5 white heads at the bottom with the Salus heads - that would control the delta T by flow rate and you just open the flow valves up to full.

The Wunda ones have two different types - one that does the “standard” 3 port blend (Return, Hot feed, output) and one that has a proportional valve like a rad valve with a remote sensor in a pocket in the top rail. Correct. It is using the delta change between water/concrete/air which is the rate of heating and applying it to the flow. A cooler room will absorb heat at a faster rate therefore it allows a higher flow rate as the return temp is cooler than a smaller loop or warmer room that is returning water at a faster rate and potentially has a lower heat transfer.

No they work the same way as the wax cap based TMVs - allowing more hot into the blender when the return is below the target temperature and closing more as the return temperatures increase

Just a thought - could you not use something like a fibre optic light pipe to extend the status LED ..? As usual, cheaper in the US than here ...

No it’s because the tank I was supplied with had no coil in it ..... it basically works as a low loss header, just a 65 litre one ...! It does mean the tank plus UFH all get circulated via the ASHP so having an element of antifreeze is key

Never heard of them..!! ivar or wunda are the two we fight over on here - pipe is pretty much pipe

Yep correct - my bad !! I would do both.

Ok - go quite low, cut a section from the wall with a multi master or something similar and you will be able to patch it back in without too much hassle. I’d basically add a non return valve onto the feed to the tap - doesn’t matter which one as long as it will stop the bypassing.

@epsilonGreedy this is the current setup I’ve installed (minus the coil in the buffer) It is wired as W-Plan so the hot water always has priority if both come on together, but the buffer holds enough for around 60-70 mins of running and the thermostat which is 2/3rd down the buffer tank is what controls the ASHP in heating mode.

Nope... stays at 33c in and about 17c out when it first kicks in ... manifold blending valve basically takes the water at whatever temperature it comes in at from the buffer and blends with the return flow water. Excess flow goes back to the buffer tank, and over a period the amount of hot drawn from the buffer reduces.

Seriously ..?? £2200 for a 5Kw Samsung, £2700 for the 9Kw if you need a bigger one. One control cable, armoured supply to a rotary isolator and two pipes ...

Sorry read that as there is a 22mm to each room, not that it was branched Can you get under the floor or in a ceiling ..??

I wouldn’t bother - If there is 22mm available then a cut and shut NRV will fix it. Don’t wreck the wall ..!!

Any chance you can get an NRV on the hot feed to the bathroom ..??

Put a non return valve on the inlet of the TS. Has it got a blending valve on the outlet..? And are there any balancing valves / PRVs..?

It probably doesn’t have any at all ... oil boilers tend to be coils of steel pipe around the burner gallery or just a stack of baffles - some have the holding tank sat at the top. 3-4mm is not unusual for thickness hence why a long slow burn is better for heating up on an oil boiler. Gas boiler primary exchangers can be less than 1mm thick.

Class E ABS could do it but is about £6 a metre plus the welding kit. I would build a pump house half way up and split the difference. Other option is a borehole but I bet the ground is hard up there !!