PeterW

About 100% premium to on site mix however if you’re thinking slab then think again as you can’t mix a full house slab by hand. I have used a different self compacting concrete but do not get drawn into the sales patter that it self levels as it doesn’t. You need someone skilled with a bull float to get it flat.

You can retrofit any height as long as you’re careful with a core drill. Search for High Rise vents, they are designed to be retrofitted from the inside only. I would be surprised if the dome had been removed but it would be pretty challenging to reinstate something like that without a full scale rework of the ceiling. You may also find the flat doesn’t own the roof either - some leasehold tenancies keep the roof as a shared component so doing any work to it may be a problem.

I’m not sure tapped holes are acceptable but an engineer would be able to advise

@Andrew @Nick1c you need to look at the design carefully on this, as the individual room heat needs affect the loop layout and the flow rates per loop. It’s not just as simple as chuck it in the floor, for example if you have a layout of 150mm centres, each loop requires a different flow rate to ensure heat transfer is correct. You can get Wunda to do this for you, or use a program such as LoopCAD that will do it for you once you’ve drawn your floor plan and added in the the thermal elements. It also ensures you don’t get overheating in common areas.

Conversions are CIL exempt for a self builder - convert and extend is where it gets complicated but it is all laid out in the regulations about how it’s calculated.

I know of somewhere with two. One Miele and one Samsung. The Miele is the one for plates and pans, the Samsung is much better for glassware, for a dinner party for 8, the whole lot fits into the two perfectly.

Tend to use aluminium on half hard copper as it doesn’t score or mark the pipe as much as steel can. They are also much lighter to use ..!

Is it board or board and skim or just skim ..? Skim and tape I was quoted £1.80-2.70/m but eventually went on day rate with someone I got through a contact as he did all the browning on the curved ceilings etc. Really impressed with him and may be local to you.

You can get horizontal unvented cylinders with attic cradles which are pretty easy to get installed. Only usual issue is the pressure valve drain off.

Don’t bother. Use something like Trello as it’s easier (and I use MSP19 for work...)

You don’t need to bolt the frame to the floor. Glue the sole plate down, then use angle brackets to hold the frame back against the wall. I’ve got a full set of Geberit wall hold back bolts and fixings somewhere as I build between the studs. The weight on the bottom holds it down

Shouldn’t need it as a Sigma frame comfortably fits inside a 95mm stud wall.

£50 for a connection - it’s not done on distance unless they have to start putting poles in etc. If it’s all on your land, dig a trench for them and they will give you the duct for free.

Ignore the sales sites, go direct to the technical pages on Geberit website. https://catalog.geberit.co.uk/en-GB/products/CH2_100901/Systems/Installation-and-Flushing-Systems/Geberit-Duofix/Frames

God knows as I’m as confused as you now ..!! @zoothorn can you draw a simple plan with stream, cabin and a direction arrow please ..?

Not sure on his logic here ..!! Running that though beamcalc, and my rough numbers show you need a dynamic load on the outer edge of the deck of about 450kg to get anything like a deflection of more than 5mm - that’s 5 people ... all sat on the edge .... 60cm without any weight on the other side I would go with, but you’re putting a 5-700kg shed on the other side ..!! If you really want to use the @Onoff School of (over)Engineering then use a doubled up 6x2 at each side, but for me I would be more inclined to just go with a 6x2 each side and then span across with 6x2 at 400mm centres.

I think I questioned that when they went on ...

A number ..! It has to be laid to be polished, so is slightly higher to allow for material removal. There are also a number of other things you need to understand as the aggregate finish can be “patchy” depending on how the mix is laid. You also cannot use fibre reinforcing so you have to use a standard reinforcement if needed. I would have loved to use it but it does need to be planned in advance, polished and then protected when the rest of the build proceeds.

Few options : At the top end of the market is this sort of thing https://www.ecorangecooker.co.uk/wood-fired-2-oven-boiler-cooker/wood-fired-2-oven-boiler-cooker-technical-summary/ Medium range is this sort http://www.pipinghotstoves.com/index.php/wood-cookers-boiler/lincar-ilaria-wood-burning-cooker.html Other options are ones such as this https://www.modernstoves.co.uk/condor-multi-fuel-range-cooker-with-back-boiler.html As @JSHarris says, they aren’t the best environmentally but stoves are much better than open fires..!

Need to cut a slot for the block to fit into and then peg it into the gap otherwise it will just fall out if you cram a bit in. Best to use same block type as the existing wall if possible too if it’s being re-rendered.

Made by Dulux for Wilko... as is Wickes paint..

Could even use something like this https://www.roofinglines.co.uk/product/ryno-decking-cradle-20mm?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2efrBRD3ARIsAEnt0ehwLtZYJBh4afsNBUTTYAkJaseiUG7VwUOZFQi9rcyY17ae5COMS9caAvuGEALw_wcB

You should use chairs or risers to put it into the centre of the slab depth. Has the engineer specified mesh..? For a 100mm slab you may get away with fibres which is cheaper and quicker than mesh.

Depends ...!! Visqueen or DPM under and a then a slip membrane over the top of the EPS/PIR to stop the concrete getting under it and floating it up is usual.

A 6x6 tanalised gate post will last equally as long as a tanalised 8x4 sleeper, and possibly longer. Sleepers are not designed or graded for structural work so you’re at the mercy of what rocks up. I would also suggest you lift the back beam ends off those concrete pads as water will pool around them and rot them. Get something to lift them up, even if it’s only 50mm