PeterW

Ah ok. Don’t forget to prime the back of it before you use it to make it last longer.

80-90% has to be the minimum and I can’t see how one below that is on the passiv database, don’t think it’s on the SAP one which means it’s not recognised for SAP scoring if I understand correctly.

1m vertical would work - I’m assuming it’s exhaust at the top and intake bottom...??

Why are you replacing the beading ..?? Repair may be quicker and easier - is there anything actually wrong with it ..?

@JSHarris What’s the optimum spacing (vertical and / or horizontal) for MVHR..? I’ve got an option as to how to split some vents and can’t decide on the best split

You need to pull it out, fit a spring loaded backdraft flap at the fan end and then refit the tube and a new cowl or cover.

Use FrameTherm32 for the rafter fill, gives 0.14 when you take into consideration the 25mm PIR stopping the bridging of the rafters. This was on a 600mm rafter spacing.

190mm of Earthwool between the rafters, 25mm PIR over secured with 25mm battens at the joists and then 25mm infill, taped at all joints will work for you from both uValue and airtightness perspective and is also good for decrement delay.

AlOx paint isn’t really needed in this situation - just a good primer and then a couple of coats of undercoat. Buy a “system” and it should all be fine - your local Johnstone’s Paints will make up any top coat colour for you from a sample or a code.

Check one isn’t a CO sensor and that has set them off. Not a lot you can really check on an ionization smoke alarm.

How does that meet regs ..?? At that you’d be cheaper just using full fill batts

You could test it by parking one of the Capri’s in it...

Standard 7N medium weight is fine for that. What’s the insulation spec..?

If you look at his plans, there is a letter in a circle next to each wall, which refers to the wall construction in the notes below. For some reason he has used a party wall build up for the garage ...?? That should just be a straight external wall build up. Those cladding details seem well over the top - you could build the whole thing in double skin block with a 175mm cavity and use blown beads and get a really good uValue on the walls. A bit of clever detailing and you will have a simple structure that can either be rendered or clad accordingly - @the_r_sole may have better numbers but from the last time I checked, 4mm CorTen steel would be about half the price of the aluminum “fake” CorTen panels he has specified. If you use it where there is no run off below, you won’t get staining. What was the architects estimated budget out of interest for the build ..??

I thought a lot of the ICF has plastic or metal webs so you only need horizontal rebar..??

Looks very tight to the roof ..? Are you able to get bends and silencers etc on that ..??

As above - it goes mushy when wet and gets everywhere ..! See if anyone has any road planings

Don’t bother - just buy them. Chances are they are a standard size, so they will be made from bent squares and rebar that’s just locked together. You can’t bend your own squares unless you’ve got a machine so you’ll buy those. You then need to buy the bar, and the pliers and make the jigs and by the time you’ve finished you may find they are cheaper than the materials ... This is one DIY job I would not bother trying ...

Cistern has to come off to fit that anyway so water off, pull the syphon out and measure the hole. Quicker these days to convert to a push button flush too - goes in the handle hole nice and neat.

Why not go with RSJ and a welded steel deck..? Then build off that ..? Would only need to be 6mm steel plate, cheap and easy to work and the RSJs could form the ring beam and the structural deck.

Various reasons, accuracy being one of them. They also degrade over time - those ones have some pretty big winding inside and the cases aren’t that strong.

Stub vent only has to be higher than the water level in the highest trap, so about 1200mm assuming there is no window in that back wall..? Take the tee you linked and drill out one of the bosses and insert a 40mm rubber insert. Then run the shower into that. WC goes into the top of the stack - not keen on those elbows with a waste Access but if it’s not a regularly used bathroom then it’s ok. The other 110mm branch goes out the back wall, 90 degree elbow and up the wall, ending with a mushroom cap.

It may have to be moved as that is not accessible and neither is the head fuse. Looking at that it looks around a 1995 meter that’s potentially already been round the clock once..! I’d want it swapped, looks like plenty of wire to work with. Where is the consumer unit ..?

Ok if it was me I would put a stub vent behind the studio and then not worry about the house, just use anti syphon traps on the sinks. How much room is there under the floor to work ..?

Nope that’s room stats - what’s controlling zone 1/2 and DHW..?