PeterW

Screws aren’t certified / strong enough for use in a hanger, has to be galvanized twist nails (or does to meet manufacturers spec..)

Add don’t subtract ..!! You’ve got another 6-7 courses to go, make the beds a bit thicker and you’ll lose the problem.

Couple of bits of rebar pushed into the inner EPS side would also work to support it with a zip tie to stop it moving.

Need to shut the lid or sit on it to reduce the ability for air to go everywhere ...

You can buy a standard 10” filter that does that already. https://www.wiltec.de/nw-790-g-siliphos-cartridge-silicate-phosphate-binder.html

10% off eBay if you spend over £100 PICKME10

You can get them on eBay refurbished from £350 upward.

Is it water UFH or electric ..?? You could drill holes and inject epoxy or similar and then plug the holes - @Stones did something similar with hollow tiles I believe.

HS2....

The SE should do it based on the ground conditions.

19Kw still sounds excessive as your daily losses in the worst month would easily be covered by something half the size.

@ProDave 5 doors is 33sqm with two coats. That is only 1.5 litres with some to spare. This would do, as would Fiddes Door Oil

@albert what is being done to address this lot as your issue doesn’t seem to be ASHP vs Oil, it is actually meeting the base regulations.

Not wanting to question this but ... you’ve failed design SAP..???? Your design doesn’t meet DER / TER, so what are you having to do about it as your wall and floor construction doesn’t meet the standards. Ignoring that ... your worst case Heating need is 4140Kwh in a month, so that’s a maximum of 8.6Kw/h based on a percentile based value with 24 hour running of the heating. So a 10Kw ASHP can do this, why the 19Kw..?? I would also look now at spending the £6k difference between oil and ASHP on the external wall insulation and get that SAP number up the scale and drop the heating requirements. @JSHarris @ADLIan have I missed anything in that SAP report ..??

Tape Protecta board or something else to them ..??

I’d contact Cellecta directly who manufacture them and see what they suggest. Alternatively you can look at Fermacell who do allow the use of their boards direct onto rigid insulation however you need two layers of 12.5mm, or alternatively one of 12.5m and one of their overlay boards with a staggered joint pattern. That would mean you need to drop your Insulation level to 95mm but this seems a very expensive floor build up whichever way you look at it ...

Those are like the Fermacell boards and I think can be laid direct on insulation. Have you got the product name ..?

Why the 19Kw ASHP ..?? If this is a new build then unless it’s a 7 bed mansion you cannot have 19Kw heat loss from that. Have you done the heat loss calcs..??

It was called a massive wake up that heating houses was causing significant energy based emissions and huge bills for homeowners. The 1990s regs saw 50mm of fibre in a wall as a “good” standard - now, 150mm is a bare pass. But in terms of carbon efficiency, the savings on both CO2 emissions and cost of heating is significant.

Yes ... your final SAP that has to show you exceed the TER for the property. Has your architect wandered off into the sunset on this..? Before you move on much more I would seriously consider getting the DER done ASAP and understand what’s the minimum you need to do to get a pass.

But 2013 is the wrong version of the regs unless you got applied for Building Regs approval prior to 10th April 2016. After that, irrespective of the design or planning approval, you have to meet the 2016 regulations. This isn’t a choice ..! It’s a requirement ..!!

@epsilonGreedy you’re missing a step here - that shows the difference between the 2013 regs and the new 2016 amendment that brought in TER and DER for new builds. The 2016 Fabric Elements are different again. If you read the 2016 amendments, it does state the following : stated value represents the area-weighted average for all elements of that type. In general, to achieve the TER and the TFEE rate, a significantly better fabric performance than that set out in Table 2 is likely to be required. They are basically saying in an average build at 2016 rates you would still need to be better, but to ensure no-one try’s to do something silly such as a glass box with a roof 5ft thick, they do limiting fabric factors. Its not difficult to beat the numbers - 500mm of loft insulation is cheap, air tight tape is a couple of hundred and so on. Just approach it methodically and you can soon be heading into decent scores and not having the issue of trying to find points to scrape a DER pass. Part L1A is here

It’s a 3 port diverter valve, not a 3 port mid position valve. They come with a microswitch that can be useful.

Rollers are nearly always custom sizes and are tolerant to variation in height of 80-150mm due to how they are designed. The size of the box is key, as is whether it is single skin or double skin as this can also have bearing on how the tracks are installed. A quick look at the specs and between 290-380mm seems to be the range of gap needed to the top of the opening from the bottom of the rafters. That equates to a block and coursing brick, to a block and two coursing bricks above your lintel. If you have 10 courses of block plus 2 coursing bricks to play with (perfect 2400 ceiling) then your lintel needs to be on course 9, leaving the blocks and coursing bricks above. Easier to do as a pair of coursing rows with a block final. That would give you an opening of 2025 for your garage door. That’s a gnats taller than a “standard” 6’6” garage door.

With an ASHP having a permanently open circuit stops over temperature trips when the pump over runs after the valve closes. You can use a differential bypass valve but ASHP are less tolerant of over temperature and over pressure situations on the whole so a diverter is one less thing to wire, and a simple solution to a permanently open flow path