PeterW

This is standard S Plan pipework and wiring, or W Plan if you want to prioritise hot water over heating. An ASHP has two pipes, a cylinder has two, and a UFH manifold has two. Assuming you are not wanting floor cooling, combine the returns from tank and floor, and pipe the feed into a 3 way diverter valve that is open to DHW and closed to UFH. That’s the pipework done. It’s that simple. Demand comes on with the tank stat and the ASHP fires up. Heating stat comes on, 3 way switches over and you’ve got heat to your UFH. Not much more to it to be honest ..??

It isn’t - they use internal insulated PB, or add points for things such as renewables to get through

Errr ... it’s part of your Building Regs submission ..?? Should have been done by the SAP assessor ..? How do you know you’re going to meet regs if you don’t know what you are building to..??

Yes correct. What are your DER and TER calculations ..? These are the model values that your DER would be assessed against (the TER) and you have to equal or better the score overall Your design with 0.12 on roof and floor cannot make up the 0.1 difference on walls

0.28 won’t get you through DER/TER

So with 100mm cavity you will need extra internal insulation to meet regs. Your quickest approach is to use 75mm EPS right butted to the inside face blockwork and then fill the remaining gap with 6:1 sand cement to hold it in place.

Sennocke cover scaffold installed as part of a self build and “own scaffold” in their all risks insurance.

If they say that they mean wet mortar to allow it to settle and bed the imperfections. Not an approach I’ve seen before

Concrete doesn’t need a week - just whip them off and be done with it. We start building foundation blockwork 48 hours after pouring.

Fein Multimaster ...

We use Johnstone’s Agricultural Oxide paint on this sort of stuff - quick wire brush off the rust and it’s good for 10 years https://www.johnstonestrade.com/product/agricultural-oxide

3/4” is a throwback to the old rule about supplying showers with 22mm to make sure they have high flow.

Merchant speaks with forked tongue .... And not a massive amount of cost, just make sure you get an ASHP that supports cooling.

I’d do that slightly different and use a brass male/male 3/4 hex nipple then use the Hep2O female fitting. They are pennies to buy.

No issue with it but I would make sure that junction is fully roddable or run a spine from the back corner of your larder direct to the manhole and then fishbone into that all the way down as that is a serious change of direction !

One of these ... https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433/jtm-above-ground-soil-fittings-c741/jtm-double-socket-branch-135-p23356

Very rare you would need that - more likely to go 22mm 3/4” and use a 22/15 reducer.

If that stack is going to be accessible I would use a 135 tee and then put an access cap on the top so you can do future maintenance.

When do you need them..?? Got a whole box of different sizes I can send you.

Don’t worry, treat this like a sequel .... or prequel as he bought the bits before he started the bathroom .....

Nope - noise of the unit is incidental and the noise comes from either the air flow through the vent cowls (exhaust and supply) which is a function of air speed and vent gaps, or transmitted down the ducts. This can be sorted by using inline silencers.

I’d be using “pairs” of 50mm angle welded to the beams and then bolted to the fins. Finding a decent U Channel of the right size and then drilling it etc sounds hard work - getting 80 or so “standard” brackets made that are 250 x 50 x 50 with a 10mm hole 75mm from each end on one flange just sounds soooo much easier...!! Could even get away with an angle one side and a 50x250x3mm bar/plate the other side to make a sandwich that would allow for different timber thickness / tolerance ..??

Check the VoIP phone doesn’t have an in and an out port - some do and act as a switch on their own. If not, the cheapest TP-Link one from eBuyer will do you fine. VoIP can live on a 10/100 switch, no need for Gb Ethernet

Same with Paslode guns - run so much better on genuine paslode gas cylinders

No but they can get jammed with muck so cleaning it may be needed.