PeterW

300 litre UVC is £875 9Kw ASHP can be had for £2500 Pipe and bits £500 2 days to install and commission ..? £5-6k tops, more than that and they are taking the.....

Chop saw and a flap wheel on the grinder is what I use. Still got all my digits ...

Can you elaborate ..?? Can you fit blocks either side of the hangers and use screws up through the wall plate into those ..??

They have other units and they are Mitsubishi compressors inside. £2150 inc for their 11kw unit.

Above ground works normally refers to construction of walls etc. Demolition is preparatory works

OPP normally states more such as a “2 storey 4 bed dwelling” so have you looked at the application online ..? also look at the street scene - if it’s a row of 2 bed bungalows you may be unlikely to get DPP for a 5 bed house ...

50mm with UFH is going to be tight anyway as that only leaves 34mm over the pipes unless you use one of the overlay systems. What is going on the top of the floor as final finish ..?

@zoothorn you’re building a pier for a shed, not the M4 flyover so the mix isn’t critical ..!! 4 buckets all in ballast 1 bucket cement enough water to make it wet no additives, no scales to weigh it or complex measurement sticks needed. Just use the same size bucket for everything and the mix will be fine. Into the machine and let it run. You don't need A Level maths to make concrete as 50,000 labourers will prove ..!!

It is - but a lot of sites are using 7N throughout as it means only having one block type on site as 7N have been traditionally a below DPC block (well round here they are ..!)

If you haven’t already bought the cement, you can buy “mixer bags” which are 12.5kg plastic sacks that you can just dump in with the ballast by cutting the bottom as you old it over the mixer drum.

We used to be able to tell when we were last drop on the readymix run vs first - mortar that has spent 4 hours on the wagon was much smoother and less watery.

@MikeSharp01 are there nails or fixings in the frame on the other side ..?

Better than trying to fill a barrow side on unless you have someone holding onto it to stop it tipping.

Neither will matter, it’s a minimum spec. Just check the design spec for the block against the SAP DER/TER as you need to make sure the thermal performance isn’t affected by a different block.

Tip nose on. Basically put the barrow straight on to the mixer so you empty out over the wheel and down the slope. It will stop it tipping if it gets a full load onto one side.

Put a dressing room at 90 degrees to the entrance to the en-suite and enter the en-suite through that - it will create a sound break and a decent wall build up will stop any residual flanking sound.

So... I would just use cut a piece of 25mm thick insulation(or the depth of your battens) about 6” wide and just fit between the battens at the top and bottoms of each gap. Quick and simple and will take the spring out of the corner joints.

A 500mm cube only contains 0.125 cubic metres - think about it ... its half the width, half the length and half the height, so is one eighth of the volume

Wunda Trade - 240sqm kit for just over £1k will do your design for you and provide all the bits. Nu-Heat can be a bit .... pricey.... Yep sorry !!

Based on...?? ASHP can be self installed and had for change of £3k all in. Oil boiler and tank are Oftec install and a push for £3-4K. Oil boiler needs an annual service, ASHP does not. With a 150mm slab you have already created a big heat sink that is ideal for overnight or E7 heating. This should get your heat cost down to around 2p/kWh so ask your plumber to match that with oil and then see where it goes.

Hormann do what is called an “open for infill” door in their range that allows you to clad the garage door however you want. https://www.thegaragedoorcentre.co.uk/createyourowntimbergaragedoor A decent joiner should be able to make you a front door and then match the garage panelling to it.

Nope... don’t go with a backdrop, just go 45 degrees to get to your invert level from your drain level (easy to calculate as the depth and length are the same) and run in with the slope. Backdrops can block and are a nightmare to install and clear.

If he wants good but at a price then find the Villeroy & Boch ones on eBay V&B Pan

Why will it ..?? conduit colour underground doesn’t matter as long as the correct identification tape is used above the ducting. For connections, some DNOs use black, others use red, some use grey. There is no “official” standard that I can find and if it’s armoured in the duct anyway, what’s the issue ..?

Brinkley is out of date on a lot of things - that’s one of them ..! this has been a pretty standard method for at least the past 10-12 years and it’s one I’ve used a number of times. Bear in mind you need to look at reinforcing and the insulation for a ground bearing slab (what MB refers to, not what @JSHarris has) at BRegs application and design point, MB saying people don’t plan ahead for UFH is a little odd ...