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Good idea, no harm in trying that first I suppose. Thanks

Excellent! Very encouraging. If you've got examples of your experiment I'd love to see the pics. I'll go and hunt for some diamond discs that will fit my backing plate and give it a whirl. Thanks

Yes, very good point. However, I see them as separate issues and the colour fading is less important than the flaking. I have other limestone which I think is very similar, but it's honed, so seems much more resilient and less porous. I was thinking I could stop the new slabs disintegrating by polishing them down a bit. I might then use a sealer, and even the colour restorer, but I'll cross that bridge later.

Thanks! Do you have the Kestral Das-6, or the water fed one? And if so, which discs did you use?

Hi all, I picked up 12 Indian Limestone slabs which are black in colour for a givaway price on eBay. Unfortunately I didn't realise they were heavily weathered and the surface is silver/grey and flaking away sheets. As they're slightly riven I thought it must be possible to polish them to match my sawn/honed Limestone I have elsewehere. I don't want to acheive a high polish at all, but just remove some of the flakiness and smooth/seal the surface some more. Obviously a dedicated patio polisher is out of the question but I've noticed you can buy 4" diamond discs in various grades quite cheap for polishing stone and concrete. I've also seen this wet polisher quite cheap, but don't want to buy another tool either given that the limestone only cost me £20: Wet Polisher I do have Kestral Das-6 Pro Dual Action (random orbital) polisher I use to compound my car bodywork. Would a diamond disc fitted to my DA polisher with a thoroughly wetted stone acehive any results?? Das-6 Pro Failing that, I could get a basic angle grinder if that can be used perfectly flat to the stone face. Here's the limestone laid as coping stones in the dry: and once wet:

Yes, I've bought 4 of the 3-gang dimmers, however for the downlights in the actual garden room it's been wired to fit a varilight dimmer switch. I figured I use that as planned rather than get yet another wireless dimming receiver and try to hide it somewhere. The alternative was to get a 2-gang MK Faceplate, with one side with a wired dimmer and the other side with a quinetic dimmer. Basically I'll have have to see which solution I can actually get away with.

I've got one dual receiver for some garden lights, but that's not dimming, so I've got 3 or 4 dimming ones for most of the lighting.

Thanks, it's worth a try. On the outside wall I wanted to hide two receivers and two 3-gang Quinetic switches. So I'll see if I can acheive all that by modding one dual 1 gang back box as you suggest. For inside the room I just need one receiver, one 3-gang Quinetic switch and one varilight dimmer switch. Again, I'll give it a go with another dual 1 gang back box.

Thanks for checking for me. Those are 2 gang boxes but I think I need dual 1 gang otherwise I won't be able to mount 2 x Quinetic switches on them, or 1 Qunietic switch and one Varilight dimmer, as in the case of the one inside the room. However your essential dimensions will be very similar in either case and are very helpful. Probably fine for one receiver, but not so much for 2.

Thanks, that's very kind! I've found the plastic versions of this dual 1 gang box, and they're inexpensive enough. However, I think it's highly unlikely I could fit 2 receivers in them - maybe one at a push if I cut through the partition. The problem is the receivers really are large: Height: 31mm Length: 89mm Length: 98mm inc lug Width: 43mm If you could perhaps confirm the size of yours that would be great.

Yes, OK, that is a good point. I'm not so worried about reception because the receiver will be mounted next to the french doors, which is an external wall, so the signal will just have to traverse some OSB and cedar cladding which will hopefully be manageable. However I was going to experiment with sinking this double backbox into the plasterboard thee, if I can squeeze it in: But, based on your observation I will try and source plastic ones instead. I'm hoping these boxes will accommodate on receiver and one hard wired varilight switch, or alternatively 2 receivers behind two quinetic switches. Anyone know for certain?

Right, I'm still looking at possible solutions for hiding these receivers in my garden room. There's one tiny cavity available for wiring the backbox for the 'wired' dimmer switch for the 4 downlighters: What I'm wondering is if a standard backbox can accommodate one of the receivers if I use the flush plate over it?? If so, I could possibly use a 2-gang MK plate with a wired dimmer and a quinetic dimmer with the receiver in the box. Is this too tight?

Well, yes and no. I've designed this whole build hyper-efficiently, so have stud walls with 70mm and 100mm PIR everywhere, taped off and VCL membrane before plasterboard. It was all pre-wired to accommodate hard wired switches since I originally thought that's what I needed locally, with the wireless stuff being located elsewhere. Now I've got all these oversized receivers I need to hide somewhere, but you'd laugh if you saw how I did all the recessed lighting and sockets. I built in vapour sealed PP cavities cut into the PIR all sealed off and hidden behind plasterboard: So, if I'd factored in the Quinetic receivers at an earlier stage it could have been a neat installation. But now these thing's will have to be in large surface mounted boxes with cable trunking all over the walls too. The original Curv360 receivers I planned to use were much smaller and I could have been squeezed into the back boxes, but the Quinetic stuff is really rather big. That's the dilemma I'm mulling over right now. Hmmm..

So, just blew a small fortune on this lot. Reckon it should do what I need, for now:

OK, thanks. And I just checked again and there is a 3-gang version too: QU WS3W So, if I'm to understand correctly, you can't have a hard-wired switch and a wireless receiver controlling the same circuit? If there's only one permanent Live coming in it has to go to either the wired switch or the wireless receiver I guess, and daisy chain off that, so one is always 'master'. That was the basis of my wiring plan, but appears to be a mistake. In fact I just watched Part 1 of the Shed Wiring video on Youtube and realised the hard wired switch I thought he'd installed in that installation was actually a Quinetic one inside an MK faceplate! Shed Rewire, Part 1 So, on that basis, could you set me in the right direction for re-envisioning my light wiring plan? I have 1 circuit in the garden room of 4 dimmable downlighters which need be controlled only from inside that room. But I also have one circuit of the outside lights wired to a switch here which also needs to be controlled from outside too. So the 4 downlighters need a wired dimmer switch, and the outside circuit needs a QU R301 dimming receiver. So for this I might need one of the 2-gang MK or Varilight faceplates with one being hardwired for the inside and one being a Quinetic dimmer (if these are dimmable). Failing that, a normal 1-gang hardwired dimmer, and a separate QU D11W for controlling the outside. For the switch outside doing the remaining 3 circuits I just need to bin my Masterplug weatherproof hardwired switch and fit one QU WS3W and place another 2 QU R301 dimming receivers into the wiring. I'm guessing this is about right.