PeterW

@MikeGrahamT21 have you put ventilation slots in the back of the floor...???

As others mentioned, escrow may be your only option. A solicitor could do this for you but you would also need to understand the contract terms as you may find (quite rightly) the TF manufacturer is using your money for paying for your raw materials. You could end up staging the payments on proof.

leave this to the Plasterers. Do not fit the beads yourself where they are skimming.

Sure they haven't been skimmed..?? Put a magnet on the corner and see if it sticks. You can get paper tape with a metal edge to it - fold and stick

Have a quick google search - traded under a few names but they are pretty much standard cabinets from what I've read so nothing much over your standard sheds/wren etc

It’s one of Bryn Davies many companies - he’s been around since the mid to late 80s. Aristocraft was one of his brands.

You can buy hose extensions but make sure you can access the joint just in case. Can you not run a 32mm waste to where you want and add a running trap that is accessible..? You can always use a hose connector on the trap to connect the dishwasher waste

It will be fine - it is dry and it doesn't leach through

Why is it cantilevered..? The EPS/PIR is supporting it. The insulation is structural

You have too many cupboards already - and the ones above the arch will either have to be short so the arch doesn't feel low, or you've got very high ceilings already and those will need steps... If you really need them, put another full height in to the left of the sliding (??) doors and at least make it all useable space. Just counting up what I can see, you have roughly 3 times the number of cupboards that are found in a "standard" kitchen - looking at the plans, you can't open the far left ones above the sink side as they will hit the ovens. I would move the ovens to the left side of the utility door with the microwave, put a full height pair of cabinets where the ovens now are that mirrors the cupboard / fridge at the other end, and then put a big wide window between the two at eye height, with a splayed / sloping cill so no-one can put anything on it and block the light.

Door stands on the edge of the brickwork. What is the gap filled with currently behind the bricks..? I would use EPS or PIR to reduce any cold bridging and then screed straight over the top of it

That is an RSJ not a lintel - it is probably 6mm thick and isn't going anywhere soon. I would get a wire brush on a grinder and get the worst of the crud off it, then a good coat of red oxide primer and cover it up for the next 20 years

What are the manufacturers instructions ..?? I would start there. You can use spacers and bed the screen onto CT1 clear or EB25 and then wait til it’s set and pull the spacer and do a full run of sealant but it seems to just create a messy finish. I would be taping the tray and screen and bedding the screen onto a full bed of 3-4mm of decent sealant all the way to 20mm from the end and sit that on a spacer and basically full fill the whole of the run. Inside can be tooled to a flat finish and the outer the same and you wont see the join. Pull the spacer from the end when the sealant is fully set. With wall profiles you need to only seal the outer edge so any water that gets in can get out. And make sure you have lots of baby wipes, a tin of MultiSolve and a bin nearby ..!!

That curve is just stunning. Can’t wait to see this finished.

What is your ground like..?That is starting to get to the point where you should be ensuring the sides are supported on poor ground, and also make sure your spoil is a long way from the trench edge

It’s fitted on a few of the new gas boilers and the controllers - tends to be used to predict the start time on heating systems but isn’t entirely accurate. @TerryE has a really neat system that he designed that basically predicts load requirements but there was a lot of programming in it.

Sounds fascinating ..! I’ve got a few straw bale books but never had the chance to put it into practice ..!

Glue them on and wedge them using chocks screwed to the floor. I put a bead of adhesive about 1/2 to 2/3rd down and a bead of decorators caulk half an inch from the top and just wipe the excess off as it squeezes out and you get a nice clean line.

I think you should go with chunky posts bolted to the frame and use rope between and a simple 4x2 routed on the top of them. Job done and time for beer.

Best thing to clean up toner is cheap baby wipes ..!

Without seeing them and how they are attached, I would expect that these are tying the purlins together to stop them bowing. Got any photos..? Also, where are the stairs going..?

Can you let us know how that goes..?? Are you using ready mixed time, or dry mix..?? Any particular brand of time to avoid...??? ?

bizarre ..!!! unless you both posted at the exact same time, I can't see how that worked..!

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SF8350BC.html

That is smaller than I expected - even with a standard 2.6m wide garage you will need a bigger space than a single garage. Could always use external stairs..?