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About Jenni

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    SW Suffolk

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  1. I'd be interested to know your thoughts on alternative channels please. I'm mulling over a sliding gate option. (sorry for off topic)
  2. We used black Bedec barn paint, was really lovely to use. Can't comment on long term, only been on 15 months.
  3. For cluster flies we find regular use of foggers helps. For big flies we've had great success with "Red Top" catchers.
  4. Thank you both. Shame items aren't consistently advertised, some list the radius and give detailed spec, others don't, very annoying.
  5. We tried jigsaw blades. The slower you take it the straighter the cut, very clean but they blunt very quickly then stink as they struggle. In the end went back to normal toothed hand saw, fast and straight, sadly very messy.
  6. Our BCO insisted on (what I considered) an excessive number of ridge vents, also he said minimal 50mm air gap under the felt.
  7. Hello. Is it possible, or unadvisable to buy a tray separately from the enclosure? My preference would be to buy together, but the enclosures I like seem to match with trays that have the waste in the 'wrong' place for my plumbing. I'm going to have an offset quadrant, either 1200x900 or slightly smaller (yet to be decided). Thanks.
  8. Hi, that would be pretty easy to do, but I thought the layer had to be on the warm side of the insulation? Iirc, to do with where condensation forms.
  9. That's good info, thank you.
  10. Hello. I had rather optimistically hoped to have heating connected before the weather turned, but that hasn't happened. So to remove risk of freezing, and worrying, I think it would be a good idea to get the water out of my ufh pipes. Can anyone advise how to do this please? Pipes are connected to a manifold, I have access to workshop air compressor but don't want to damage anything by just blowing air down without knowing a bit more. Thank you.
  11. I'm going through exactly this at the moment. Architect and BC both said to get advice from the company that will be doing the test. I've contacted half a dozen companies, some want to see drawings before quoting. 3 companies gave ballpark costs - all roughly same for the actual testing (just shy of £400+vat). Massive variety of advice cost though - from £80 to £700 depending on how much they hold your hand.
  12. So no need for rolls of VCL then? I kinda had in my head that a designated layer would be better than taping joints, maybe easier to ensure good airtightness? Thank you.
  13. Hello. I'm converting a barn, single storey, warm loft / vaulted ceilings. I'm not aiming for a super-efficient house, nothing near passiv. But I do want it to be suitable for MVHR. My regs document states - "Between each rafter 30mm cavity with 70mm Celotex FR 5000 insulation, 60mm FR 5000 under rafter with joints taped to form VCL and air leakage barrier. 25mm barrier using 25mm x47mm battens and 12.5mm Gyproc wallboard. Design to achieve 0.16w/m2k." My question is - does taping the joins of the insulation make a good enough / reliable VCL? If not, I'd welcome some recommendations for what to use instead please.
  14. Hi, I love this idea. What would you suggest using to insulate please?
  15. I seem to get a lot of sm adverts for this one -