PeterW

What was the last grade paper you used to sand it..? The only way I have got rid of woodgrain is to use car filler and then 400 grade wet and dry paper - takes ages but it is the only thing that works unless you use high build primer and a decent gloss of two or three coats.

Tidy ! Turbo bolt a couple of upstands such as 3x3 to the frame and rout the tops/sides to make them pretty and then decide what you want as a handrail..?? if its only you using it then a low board to stop you kicking anything off into the stream, and then use nice rope..??

Yes this is fine

If glazing in an extension exceeds 25% of the floor space (I think) it then requires SAP calcs @ADLIan is that correct..?

I would just use a steel beam and post arrangement. 6m Steel would only be taking the roof loading so pretty easy to calculate the depth, same on the side return and join them on a corner post bolted to the foundations.

I'm thinking about 50mm PIR and using 3x2 on edge but I only have a 2.1m span and sandwich top and bottom with 11mm OSB - should be plenty strong enough. Then its a simple felt or EDPM job to waterproof it.

Seen that on a few things - I sent 6 sheets of PIR back as they were old and banana shaped (and colour) and the BM said no issue we will credit and replace.. then tried to send me 3 of them back as the replacements..! Timber is always stored outside and its the "odd" sizes that seem to have the problems - 9x2 seems to be fairly crap quality from my TP but 8x2 is fine... go figure..!

Most of the documentation is online here https://www.komfovent.com/en/product/rhp-400-v-2/ Not sure if its clear if it comes with or without the separate controller..?? Lossnay does a similar thing - you can either control it in a "dumb" way using NV switching or use one of their controllers.

Some basically won’t read them - I know one local to us doesn’t as they questioned the finish on a wall that wasn’t documented on the application or the plans but was in the DAS and they said they wanted it adding to the plans.

Congratulations ...!! Your wind and watertight approach is similar to a lot of people - just make sure any mortgage drawdowns cover getting the main contracted stuff done so you are not slowing down your own cash flow later on.

EPS isn’t fully waterproof as there are potentially thin capillary gaps between the EPS blocks. Not unusual to see radon or other thick barriers added as BCOs “expect” to see them

Do you actually need one ..? A lot of councils no longer require a DAS for single dwellings. Check before you bother spending money on it.

I have the Portek version of that from Arbortech and I can redo a chain in about 15 minutes. Its also useful as I make modified ripping chains so I can alter it to a 5 degree angle rather than 30 degree. Only thing to remember is they either need to be bench or vice mounted - mine is on a 70mm ally angle offcut that just clamps into my vice. If I am sharpening outdoors then its an Oregon file and a bar clamp hammered into a piece of timber...!

They are crap unless you buy the full matching bar and chain with the clamp. The eBay ones are plain dangerous !!! Drilling bars is not something I would do - they are not designed to be drilled..! Should be hardened steel. The only reason the Oregon PowerSharp system works is they redesigned the chain chisel shape and it has a top dressed blade, not a curved blade. It is a totally different beast, and using one on a normal chain usually results in a lot of sparks and not a lot else.

Nice animation half way down the page..! https://www.explainthatstuff.com/sewingmachines.html

Cable to the house should be 3 core - L/N/E Earth is exported back to the DNO entry point

Hate combi's with a passion... they are becoming very complex to meet the emissions/energy ratings and your biggest problem is that if you lose the combi you have lost heating and hot water. With a system boiler with tank, more than likely you have immersion backup.

No real issue with going to 110 m if it keeps it to a single loop per zone - also helps where you have changes in emissivity of the floor surface to try and retain these within a single loop (ie carpet vs tiles) so would be worth checking if you can get Bed2 onto a single zone. Would also allow running just the bathrooms in the spring/autumn if needed.

I mean this stuff - Filter foam

Carbon pond filter media ..? Cheap and washable.

Stud walls up tight to the ceiling trusses and the headers sprag nailed through both sides of each side of the ceiling joist. 50x25 counter battens to suit your boards then first fix electrics. Then board the ceilings then the walls. Only time I’ve seen foam used was when the there were top hats fitted and they wanted an additional stud wall and it was used to fill the void.

That’s because @Onoff has the middle names “Over Engineer”..... 3x3 is more than enough - it’s only to take the bounce out of the corner and tbh the cantilever is strong enough on its own unless you’re planning to host the All Wales Fat Lad Pastie eating contest * on the deck... *I believe @Nickfromwales was the southern winner 3 years in a row ...

@zoothorn if the builder has done it then it would have fallen off by now. Just get a roll and the bags of plaster and let the guys get on with the job. They will tape just before they skim.

If it has lit then it isn’t a purging issue. Most likely it’s the diaphragm in the gas valve and that’s a GSR job.

even better idea for you, make it into a double eyebrow dormer as they are quite common around you and would fit right in ... soon have all the profiles done in CAD if you crack on this morning ...