PeterW

I still cuprinol over everything - just for consistency. If you wanted to get on you could just tag the end of each board with one screw, and when the new screws arrive you can add them where needed and take the temporary ones out. First job would be make some nice posts, and rout the tops/sides to make it look nice. Then fit them to the frame so they are plumb and square. The post on the corner can be fitted a couple of ways, one would be cut a section of 3x3 and insert it inside the corner and glue/screw in place. Then cut the outer corner off at 45 degrees from the frame to give you a "flat" section of frame. Screw the new post to the face of this angled corner, through the corner and into the block on the inside.

Yes but if you use turbo screws then go from both sides - that is through the post into the frame and back through the frame into the post. Have you got some creocote/preservative to paint that frame - especially the tops of the rails and all the joints - before you lay the boards.

It will allow water into the joint and promote rot. Fit the posts first and notch the boards around the posts. Better to coach bolt the posts all the way through to frame

You'll probably have to put a rumble drain in for the discharge first, and only the excess will run to the ditch. In terms of tanks..? The one with the least moving parts, and one that can be serviced without having to enter the tank to do it

Is there no grease nipple on the ram head..?

That is quite a tidy arrangement. Is the remaining 46% due on erection or at some other time..? And is there any retention.?

This was my call out at the top - reckon on 9-12kw at best usually. TMV or could you end up with short cycling..?

Cut the boards in half and then just let the ends overlap the frame as it will keep the joist joints drier

That is the approach - calculate your gap, work out the total "thickness", count up the boards. Then basically deduct this board thickness and divide then remove the board thickness and divide by boards +1

32mm is more than adequate - crack on !

Topcon or Spectra (now Trimble) are the ones I've used recently and both are well made. The Spectra was good to about 40m in bright sunshine and still very accurate. Topcon just seemed a bit more rugged.

So just run parallel to the front of the cabin and screw with 2 screws to every noggin, and use decent 25mm deck boards

Should run front to back - so from the door to the edge of the deck. Is there a joist available for the end of the boards nearest the door for the deck boards to land on..?

You mean stair spindles..?? Nice picture

So what happens after the 11 minute shower in this case..? You have no hot water. The Sunamp either calls for heat at 50% or 90% depleted. Once you have the boiler running then you will be getting a request to the boiler to reheat the sunamp. Now you have a priority issue, so if the hot water is taking priority (W-Plan) then your heating will take a hit if it is running. If you have S-Plan then potentially you have a reheat but at a much lower rate and you are potentially out of water again. In terms of pure cost, 400 litre UVC is change of £1,000 and is about £80-100 to service annually. If you have a gas boiler anyway, that reduces to about £40-50. 20 year lifecycle means you have a TCV of £2,000 and you have something any plumber can work on. Sunamp has a similar life, as your plumber is calling out too the skills for supporting these things are not the widest in the market. I know a few people have had to have the controllers replaced or components fail in the control system rather than the Sunamp itself. They had issues with the cases bowing in the early days and were changed under warranty, but not sure if it fully fixed it. Sunamp does have a place in low energy houses and also in ones with PV available etc, but in a standard build with a gas boiler the benefits do start to look less tangible

Mermaid, Aquapanel or a few others - all can be fitted to blockwork using foam or adhesive.

Tiles or panels drop onto the top of the tray anyway ... You can also use panels direct onto blockwork so saves on boarding out too.

Not with a Uniq12HW, you would need a Uniq12HW+i to use the electric heater, and then I'm not 100% sure how you can override it to call for electric heating not gas. A 12kw has a theoretical supply of 370 litres at 40c. The downside is a lot of new showers expect the water at a minimum 45c so you're borderline getting 280 litres out of it. Could use 2 9's but it is the control that will be the hardest. Other than the gadget factor, any reason for not going with a 400 litre UVC..?

Welcome.. That may need more than one sunamp if you're after enough hot water to service 3 showers in a six bed house. This also assumes you have enough water pressure and flow rate to service that sort of arrangement. Assuming you want 2 UniqHW12 then it is as simple as having a pair of zone valves and the correct settings in the controller which is effectively setting a few DIP switches. As per the manual this is the schematic for the one UniqHW, 2 is just do it in parallel. Your only restriction may be the boiler will not provide enough heat as you cannot use the hot water circuit, you will be using the heating circuit to supply heat to the sunamps and it will be close as to whether it can give you the flow - and the heating to the house - from an old 24kw combi. If you're doing this as big extension etc, and are prepared to pay north of £4,500 for the sunamps, why not upgrade to a system boiler for an extra £12-1500..??

More common than you think https://www.showertraysuk.co.uk/shower-trays/l/showertrays-classic-size:1300mm-x-800mm

Yep - does make it a lot stiffer than normal but nothing too unmanageable

Yes they recommend a sub board dedicated to the car charger

And Unless you put a drop leg on the rafter tail or have deep rafters, you are fairly limited. @Oz07 did you use a deep rafter..?

External FTP isn’t expensive - also usually solid copper not CCA

bigger issue will be general interference on the CAT5 at the length to an intercom etc (assuming it is analogue and not IP) and the feedback on it. Use shielded FTP cable if possible and clamp the shield to earth at the gate end