PeterW

Maximum single phase charger is 7Kw from memory so 10mm is what they seem to specify. Can you not get near the meter as ideally you should not run this via the CU

I think the issue here is that DHW sizing is traditionally done on full size tanks of capacity.

It’s been around 5 years ...

As per previous, the Sunamp will only recharge if it’s reached its 50/90% discharge level. Unlike a hot water tank that will call for heat when the programmer goes to hot water mode, a Sunamp could potentially be 52% full, which is still over its recharge point and won’t trigger the boiler. Next time you want 2 showers in quick succession, the Sunamp will empty rapidly. You can’t always guarantee to have a full Sunamp and there is no way to force it to regenerate when it is 75% full for example.

You don’t ... you blend it down to 45c anyway but storing it at 85c means you have substantially more “capacity” than the same tank at 55c.

The flush tube is catching on something. Turn the isolator valve off. Reach in and turn the white tube and it’s mechanism 1/4 turn anti-clockwise. It will then come up and out in your hand. Check the mechanism and the washer and then refit it - it will click into place. Refit the flush mechanism and retry it.

welcome... So you need some sort of separation on the heat sources, and all of your solid fuel ones need to be vented for safety or otherwise you are into drench systems etc. Firstly, UFH only works with buildings with decent floor insulation, same with walls and roof if possible. Old draughty stone cottages don't tend to fit that bill, so I would discount UFH and stick with Rads. Secondly, is this a new Aga and wood burning stoves, or existing..? If the are existing and already have boilers then you need to look at a thermal store that can take the full heat load from them, if not then it changes the sizing of the TS. If this is all new then you need to size them differently

It will be fine assuming it is being kept dry and inside the fabric of the building. If it was exposed to the outside / rain etc then coating the visible surfaces with red oxide would be preferable

Not the easiest ..!! Have you got access to a spare wheel off a car..?? Lay it on the floor and then coil it round the wheel - few short lengths of batten hammered into the ground spaced away from the wheel will keep it under control.

If you are using slip couplers then you need to make sure that : - Both pipes are properly chamfered - Silicone lubricant is used on both seals / pipes - the joint is marked accurately With a slip coupling you need to get the ends of the pipes as close as possible, and mark half the depth of the fitting on both pipes not just one pipe as if there is a gap in the middle you want the coupling equidistant across the joint.

Expensive ... can get the same stuff in Wickes for £22.50 https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-170mm-Standard-Top-Up-Loft-Roll-Insulation---6-47m2/p/109450

How big is this extension and do you know when it was built ..? Reason for asking us that you ask elsewhere about a non standard loft hatch which makes me think the joist spacing isn’t standard either (unless it has been made to fit 400 centres) so worth checking first how big the joists are and how wide before you put too much up there. If they are 400mm spaced then you can get the Rockwool combi roll and yes it will compact between the joists. If they are 800mm wide then I wouldn’t be storing anything up there without first reinforcing the joists.

You fit the pipe into the IC then move it back into position. You can use plain ends and slip couplings but fitting the first IC then it’s pipework and work toward the second one. Once you’ve got the pipework in then bed it in with a dry mix when it’s level.

Is that the plumber installed price..??? 400litre Telford UVC for £1,000 - here That's a tank that if you wanted to, you could boost to 85c using your 0p/Kw Octopus deal and hold even more than 2 Sunamps that can only really do the 40c otherwise they deplete too quickly. Yes the combi will pick up the Sunamp and give it 12-15kw or whatever, but I am struggling to see the benefit over a decent size UVC. And if the combi dies, you still need a new boiler for the central heating.

So ... do a bit of research. This is 10 minutes on DuckDuckGo - other search engines are available... Website - says been in business since 1994/1997, buried in the privacy policy you find the company is actually Andron Manufacturing. Companies House - says Andron Manufacturing has been registered since... 2017. The accounts show it is also a micro company Website and companies house registered office addresses also differ. There is also no contact address on the website (not that I can find easily..!) Director check shows new companies set up as Mastercraft Manufacturing recently..? That was 10 minutes... for a company that has been in business for 25 plus years...??

So thats pretty much a turnkey build - who is doing the thermal insulation or is it SIPs..?

if you use washed 40mm limestone in the last 5 metres and also use a pair of 45 degree bends to put a drop in your last length of pipe you don't tend to have to worry about the washout making it back up to your tank when the stream floods.

3x3 is fine and if you use rope between the posts you won't see it tbh and you'll be glad to hold onto it when you do go slightly too far forward after a beer..

tidy enough - its being rendered..!!

Tidy for you in that the title of goods transfers to you through the process. That is key and that could also mitigate a lot of your loss if the company went bang. To me, they have a 6% retainer in there - that is the balance on completion - however I would ask how the internal joinery is priced into the contract (supply/supply & fit) and what it includes. The remaining elements such as cladding and roofing are part of the core build so I assume this is due only when the building is wind and watertight. Who is responsible for the windows out of interest..?

Are they offering to be the CDM holder for £390..????!!! If it was a commercial build I'd bite their hand off as its normally about £600 a week..!!!

That’s the same stuff as the Board Fix one as it’s rapid curing. Think that one is a lot cheaper though than £12/tin

It isn't... the board foam sets in about 10 minutes, the standard stuff takes a while longer

I would just run a rounding over bit over the tops and sides and then job done. Just give them a quick sand over and screw them on.

It is in the MIs that I linked, see the extract below from page 10 - you set it to call for heat at either 50% or 90%