PeterW

This stuff that @Onoff suggested https://plasticsuppliesdirect.co.uk/polypipe-gap-filling-cement-clear-140g.html Is this horizontal or vertical joins and how much pipe do you have showing..??

If the light is IP65 then i would put it in regardless

Chrome USB blanking plate so you can charge your phone whilst on the bog...

Welcome..! I've learnt a new term today... mosaicists! Never mind the garden room, lets see some pictures of your work,,!

If they are looking for a movement joint then you need to sleeve it properly or use a flexible coupling either side. What is the ground makeup..?

250mm is only a 2 board (assuming its boards not uPVC soffit) width, and not that wide for something with a 30 degree pitch. You would only have a fascia of 100mm with that pitch which I doubt you would get a fascia bracket on for guttering and get the tile overhang ( which is 30-50mm off the fascia) if you drop it to 175mm

OK so the internal (front to back) depth of standard cabinets is usually about 560mm anyway, and it depends on the configuration of the internal frame for a larder and that can remove between 40 and 60mm so you cannot get more than 500mm normally.

Sorry not sure what you mean..?? Do you mean depth of the basket from front of the cupboard to the back..?

You don't need to add any structure to what you have now - Standard Deck boards are fine over that span I would avoid using those base rails - they fill full of water and rot (unless you're just talking about using the handrail..?)

Needs digging out as it needs to have water in rather than mud... but got to say it would make a brilliant feature with some lights in it and walk over glazing..!

Is he talking about where a pipe goes through a foundation or a wall, that the pipe should be allowed to move..??

Yes - cut a piece longer than a branch fitting plus a length of pipe that will hold two slip couplings - which is about 300mm. Mark the pipe where the tee needs to sit, taking into consideration the length of the socket on the pipe. Cut the length of pipe out with enough space to slide the tee onto the stub. Chamfer, lube well and slip the tee onto the fixed pipe. Now measure approx 300mm from the tee back along your second fixed pipe, and cut and chamfer. Accurately cut a length of pipe to fit the gap, chamfer both ends and mark the pipe where the slip couplings are mid point. Lube up and fit both slip couplings. Put it into the gap and then slide the couplings into place to the marks you've made. Time for a cuppa and a chocolate digestive...

Worth noting that the Sunamp list isn’t correct and they have added and removed distributors over the past 18 months as they keep changing their go to market strategy. They used to sell direct and arranged that via Andy Trewin previously, and that was a set up a few people used from the forum. This had issues too and they were not quick at responding to customers. They are now white labelling with Fisher Heat and the products are basically a Uniq-9 with a Fisher badge on it that doubles the price .. ?

Any reason for wanting to use one ..?? They are a last resort for breaching an existing pipe. You should ideally expose a section of pipe and use a double socket tee, a short length of pipe and two slip couplings.

Looks like he’s kicked up on the old jack rafter on the corner and tbh the joiner should have replaced that as it wouldn’t present a square edge for a batten. I take it they built the new roof off the old frame and just infilled the rafters ..?? The correct way would be to take the roof structure back to the last full rafter and rebuild, then replacing the battens through the old and new to make it seamless. On the ridge, unless there is a lead apron under the last hip tile that will leak. Again, should have removed the whole of the hip section and then put the ridge tight to the left end, and then mortared up the hip tiles back to the top. Combination of the builder and the roofer at fault here

Yes however the internals are pretty much made by either Blum or Hafele - no one makes their own internal fittings.

Looks like a Hafele unit. You can add more baskets if you wanted to. Dimensions are all here

That’s the developer price - not applicable to a single build. If the cabinet is fibre enabled you will get min 76mb anyway over copper

I think you’re going to have a budget issue - working on old houses is expensive, add on unusual design such as cranked skeilings and other details and you add to costs. I understand you want to do this to make space and add value but I would check very carefully first as I think you’ll find this has the potential to be a very expensive conversion.

Very nice ..!! Are you having to stay with a traditional design or are you looking at more contemporary ..?

In a conservatory, yes, with what you are designing, no. Corner posts are designed for light loads, you’re taking about taking the full load of a 4m lintel and all the roof loads into a single point. That’s not something you can do with a length of ally tube. Unless there is a compelling reason to have a frameless corner, I would bring both windows back slightly and use a 126x126 UC and box round it to make a feature and then you will have a simple and stable structure.

Apparently Bicester has 352 bags of Multifinish in stock ...

£215 for the 2.5Ah battery alone....???

Yep you will be digging the filler from the wood grain. Also helps if you can work the door perfectly flat as it lets the paint settle.

Joists can go onto the beam, or just a wall plate either bolted or shot pinned to the top flange of the beam. You can use an RHS section to hold the corner up, and install it in such a way that it doesn't cause a cold bridge which will be your risk if you connect the windows directly to the post. Insulation needs to be properly designed.