Russell griffiths

You will all be growing extra fingers, oh hold on

It’s probably all the lead and tin keeping the scale away 🤣🤣🤣

What are your thoughts on services. where are you running your pipes and cables. if you go down this route it would be more suitable to be built on an insulated raft, which will remove a lot of cold bridges.

@saveasteadingyou are overthinking the bolt placement. it’s actually very simple. you basically have a plan of a run of wall showing where the stud spacing is, if you have a 600 centre on the studs then you have a 550mm gap in which to place the bolt. you start at the corner and mark on the shuttering stud placement, you then measure 600 for next stud, this gives you 550mm to place your bolt, all you need then is the measurement in from the edge, so a 150mm sole plate will be 75mm in from the edge of slab to centre of sole plate. push your bolts into the wet concrete at the approximate rough locations. when dry you lay your sole plate all around the perimeter of your build and using a square mark a line from the bolt to the timber. Drill a 20mm hole for a 12mm bolt and you will have no alignment problems. the threaded stud that goes up to the top plate only goes in strategic points, normally on the racking corners, so the first bolt closest the corner then 1200mm away, then your first sheet of racking board is added and it’s all turned into one big braced corner. probably very OTT for most of England, but could be handy for some coastal areas. we also used to add cyclone straps to our trusses, these wrapped over a truss and underneath the two top plates instead of just nailed on the top. not had one of my houses blow away yet 🤣🤣

The good thing with the stud sticking out of the slab @Jenkiis that if you are in a high wind area you can extend the stud to go all the way through the wall up to the top plates. I built in a sub tropical area known for high wind and had multiple studs that did this. Holds the entire structure down, not just relying on the sole plate being held in position.

You can be better off making the corner folds from a separate piece, cut a piece 1m x2m and do the fold, then lay your dpm over the top of the pre made corner and tape together. Far easier, or just cut a relief cut and tape.

Nudura or jackon forget the other two.

I would use a pu adhesive, the problem with the illbruck stuff is it’s not designed to be left as a finished surface, as in it needs a covering to protect it from uv and other things like ants or anything else that might chew at it. so you would need to do two lines of pu adhesive with the expanding foam line down the middle. so you might as well just use the adhesive. will be expensive doing it with tubes, so the sausage type gun will be the cheapest method. If your buying it by the box you should get it for £5 a sausage.

Just beware that doing a site measurement could hold you up by many weeks, if the bricky builds up one bit then they come out to measure and say it will now be 6 weeks for fabrication and delivery. I see no reason why it cannot be built accurately to a drawing. The steel fitters are very adapt at enlarging a hole or two to get a leg bolted in the right place.

Re think your screed choice, you want cement based not gypsum based, so not anhydrite Anhydrite screed requires sanding to remove the top layer, it’s also a bit dicey getting tiles to stick to it.

A treatment plant will cost you £2500 to buy then fit and build the drain field. So your going to be in to £5000 materials only if you do all the work yourself including the digging. I would go for a 90m run to a main sewer all day long. remember with the water tread plant you have ongoing electricity cost plus emptying cost. I would give my right arm for a main sewage connection.

If I was replacing that I would do a new soil stack including a rodding eye and a vent pipe.

Just the one on the end of the run.

I brought a cheap £45 drill from screwfix as I didn’t want to bugger up my expensive drill, did 7 holes through 150mm concrete in an icf house and I couldn’t kill it, I really tried. Make sure it has a clutch and put the side handle on. If you don’t mind the mess set up a hose and dribble water on the core bit. Keeps the dust down also.

I have a 250m run to two holiday letts my first 100m is in 50mm it then breaks into two 32mm for the next 100m then 25mm to the cabins.

I understand that , what I don’t understand is not being able to find other companies, I walked around the NEC today and there must have been a dozen companies there that could do it.

Sand the pipe down, primer and paint to match house. on my last place all pipes where painted to match walls,

Nope, it’s known as a floating floor, all boards are glued so act as one sheet. I worked at a site that did this. if you stamped on the floor at one side of the room the telly would jump up and down.

Why??? Are they saying that’s big, or just too long and skinny. I have many windows far larger than this with a single pane. 2600x1500.

Proper machine there mate.

If you have a concrete floor and block walls, would it not be easier to use a liquid brush on product, no kneeling down. pour on and use a cheap broom 2 coats. Any big gaps you can incorporate a reinforcement mesh.

Under the slab, not through it.

You want to forget any type of lightweight thermal block if you are using stone slips, the adhesive will not like the thermal blocks, you will end up using so much primer and additives, much better of with an aggregate block.

Do you like the front door, it’s the same as mine, but haven’t fitted it yet.

And then it also depends on the mortar joints, they are nothing like as insulated as a block, so an as built wall does not add up to the stated value of a block, lots more things to add into the equation.