Russell griffiths

That could be a plan, could have the tubby welsh bloke here as well.

Still not understanding. If it is to construct the fall on a flat roof, then how will it be breathable if you then put a waterproof covering on it. What am I missing.

Ooh Er, that’s good to know.

Board lifter is cool, however it needs to go up 4m, I’m thinking of adapting mine, but haven’t put that much thought into it yet.

Should we set up a build hub extra muscle hot line. I need 4 lads to help soon fitting some plasterboard. Im more than happy to help anybody out. Im in Cirencester Gloucestershire. Any thoughts admin gods.

What for, for the slope on a roof ?? if you have found pir available, then what’s wrong with that ?

Oh god why, it’s not a product that is needed, far superior products out there. let it die.

I would rather use a block of your finest cheddar than a thermalite, solid concrete block all day long for me.

You won’t though, you will spend it on a more expensive kitchen 🤣🤣

Are you not messing about over a couple of grand. Get the piles found in and sleep soundly.

I have seen this done in America.

without spending more than a minute on it something like this.

I don’t like your layout at all. I would take the toilet directly to the out let for the septic tank. I would have a stack coming out of the ground rising to take the toilet, with a 50mm entry point going back to shower and sink, with a separate 50/40 to the kitchen sink.

Row of concrete blocks on flat, row of marmx blocks then timber sole plate, all held in position by insulation and screed. What are you doing with your external walls to minimise thermal bridge. Do the same.

Just the structural wall through to the beam and block, the rest on top of the screed no screws needed, pu glue the sole plates down, you will not move them.

Haven’t got time to think about your whole question. But you need to ditch the 32mm idea and go 40mm if any length of run then go 50mm 32 is only any good for a tiny wash basin over a tiny distance.

Have you looked at British larch, or western red cedar or Douglas fir. Depends if your looking at rustic finish or sharp clean edges. Ive recently seen British ash that looked good.

@Onoff when fitting a piece of board use a spirit level instead of the board to keep it stiff and straight, you can see it’s level without having to keep checking it.

Grinder

There are companies that specifically look at faults in new builds. Look one up and get them to investigate. it’s a shame it’s getting warmer. Get a thermal imaging camera thing, crank the heating up and stand outside to see where it is escaping. or set up a home made air test, set a fan to suck air out of the room and stand in the room hunting for the cold draught.

I think that’s about £140 In materials. so a bit steep.

Buy a new roll get some of the black dpm joining tape get some scissors and get on your hands and knees and patch it all up. fairly simple really. If it wasn’t important then why put it in in the first place.

If he’s constantly cutting corners then this is you excuse to let him go. pea shingle for me.

Try Icf supplies in Essex I know they are linked to the company somehow.

You don’t really want shiny, you want flat, you will want a nice key for you mist coat paint to suck into. When tape n joint is sanded it’s surprisingly rough, I think they use 180 grit paper for the last sand. A glass like finish is in my book not what I want.