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LaCurandera

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  1. Are you concerned about them seeing your current property or new one? The reason for the funds is immaterial for the valuation, it's secured on your current property. So if they value anything, it'll only be your current property and unlikely to require any access (but presumably would be fine if they did)
  2. Converting a 1.5 storey chalet bungalow to two full floors and extension. No wider works like landscaping etc, in east Anglia. We had 5% vat as it’s been empty for more than two years, but we’ll need to move in now on a minor refurb and consider our options at these prices (in combination with cost of borrowing currently)
  3. We went through planning and did building regs drawings but now can't afford it in good conscience for this very reason. Estimators online - £350K Builder 1 - £340K (excluding Kitchens / bathrooms / internal doors/woodwork / exterior / PV) Builder 2 - £480K (excluding kitchens / bathroom) Builder 3 - £550K (including PC sums for Kitchen / bathrooms, ~500K without) During design discussions (including a builder so not all architect fantasy), expected cost was about £300K in early 2022,
  4. Hi, We're renovating an empty property, and had hoped to do a large extension and big plans. With mortgage rates etc we're going to now live in the property for a period ahead of doing it later. We had planned as a 5% build under 708 - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708#section8 and had builders that would operate as such However, as we aren't now doing the big build, we are still needing to do some work to bring it up to a good living level while we wait. However, this wont be on a simpler main contractor basis but probably in bits, either DIY or individual trades. How does the 5% level work in that case, can I ask each trade to invoice at 5% and supply the proof (letter from council). For things like kitchens this was easier when invoiced via the builder, but as we'll be doing it on the cheap, how might that work on an IKEA / B&Q level - has anyone asked them? Equally, can I get a trade account anywhere with the 5% level for materials? Basically, on a more DIY-led project, how can I make the most of the 5% opportunity.
  5. Like these, I usually buy extra thick ones Industrial Black Nitrile Gloves [100 Count] 6 Mil. Latex & Powder Free Vinyl Disposable Plastic Textured Gloves https://amzn.eu/d/9l9L6k5
  6. I just use nitrile gloves from Amazon as I use them for bike maintenance. They last a day but do the job.
  7. Sorry to grave dig the thread - but is there any current approximations for plastering I can work out e.g. £/m2?
  8. I think we're likely to not do a full build. Do a renovation and then wait until we can amass enough funds to make it reasonable for us. Plus, living the next few years without the extended mortgage feels like quite a win in itself
  9. I don't think they have to be automatically centred, but I do think that it feels that's nothing intentional at the moment. It might be a trick of the eye, but the front door doesn't look centred in that nook, slightly too far left. The glazed doors are in the middle of that wall when you're inside the room, but if the hallway had any storage (where the 2571 numbers are) then glazed doors would feel "pushed over" towards the right corner. Then the external French doors just feel like they're made up. Are they in the middle externally? As others have said, 100% focus from the inside, as they feel too far left to me, regardless of the other doors. Edit: And I would say of the three, get the glazed and french doors correct is first priority. Also, remember that while the front door opens, there'll be a natural tendency for eyeline to be affected by the door. So if you were stood at the door and entering, you'll likely be looking/walking more like 1 o'clock, than perfectly straight ahead. So I would move the external french doors over to the right, then have the front door line up with the glazed doors aperture on the left side (it roughly does now if you look at the doors, maybe a smidge to the right).
  10. If you want something that's Henry-like then the Wickes one is great for the money https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Wet+Dry-Vacuum-Cleaner-With-Blower-20L---1250W/p/215735 Light, easy to move. Used them for everything.
  11. He can oppose on whatever basis he wants, but whether it'll be successful will be down to the planning policy of your council. They usually have a defined policy doc (I used ours in our appeal) which lays out their own rules, but I understand that ground floor windows never have to be obscured, only first floor: https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/doors-and-windows/planning-permission "If new windows are in an upper-floor side elevation they must be obscure-glazed and either non opening or more than 1.7 metres above the floor level"
  12. Great tip on that, thanks. Hadn't actually thought about wastage as an increase of costs
  13. Hi In the early stages of build and one thing that is on my wife's "must have" lists is LVT throughout upstairs and down. Personally, I think it's where some value engineering might have to happen, but I could do with some rough guide numbers of m2 by flooring types. Ones we have so far : LVT - Quoted at £45 m2 - is that high/low? Tiles - Quoted at £25 m2 - is that high/low?
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