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LaCurandera

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  1. Hi, Yes, we're aware of the Bedroom 4 "wardrobe" - likely to be the spare and become the laundry cupboard. On the back - don't really disagree it's more for the volume. If we do do the stepped back 1st floor, is that likely to be much more ££ - I guess it needed another steel in and support?
  2. Hi @DevilDamo Elevation Not sure I have that measurement, but nothing particularly special. It's the only house that's not 2 storeys on the road and will be same proportions height wise.
  3. Hi, We've put in planning, it's taking a 1.5 storey house, putting a second floor and roof and 2 storey extension out the back with a gable end. Width wise it keeps the same as the current house, just extends back Current house Planning We are asking to extend 4m (2 storey) from the current back of the house (6m from original) We've reduced the garage to line up with the bay and put a porch across between them We've added a pitch roof on the side to replace a flat roof Overall, it will be more volume with the 2 storeys, but actually not that much extra footprint The PO has come back via email with about 6 points, some I don't care enough about, but the on the volume they've asked: The proposed two storey rear extension is very large and considered somewhat disproportionate. In addition, there is concern about over dominance to neighbours. Could this be reduced in depth by at least 1m please? With 3m to each boundary, and only 4m deeper than current ground floor (and nowhere close to failing a 45' or 25' rule) - is this the sort of thing you can say "no" to? upstairs we could rejig to lose a little depth, but having the downstairs smaller compromises the space we want and having a step would be more expensive. If they put things in those terms, are they usually something you can discuss/haggle over? In addition, the proposed gable seems overly wide and we would ask that this is reduced in width to a maximum of 6m. This is odd to me, as it's literally the same width as the house. We would consider a hipped roof at the back (which would also take off volume from the roofline), but fundamentally it's just the same width as the current house? Also hipped would compromise PV due to angles, is this something you can argue on sustainability grounds? To be fair, they have signed off with a "I know there are a lot of points above but please note that with revisions, we feel that we can support this proposal providing further issues don’t arise." Ultimately, are POs all a law unto themselves, or is there some coding in how they say things (like there is on Ofsted school reports) where "if they say it that way you should argue this way". For this, I'm keen to ask for a site visit (none yet) and talk things through with them. Any experiences I can draw on?
  4. Option 1 - cash settlement and you top up Option 2 - Have the insurance do the full job on their dime, then you follow on with your work separately. Looking at the plan there's the internal wall to the from room, and the back structure. So doing all the other works that the insurer will cover (like bathroom, flooring, plastering), you're not losing much of it when you make your changes. Splitting it also gives you a jumping off point, as if the insurers builders are good, you can ask them to carry on with your works. If they aren't, or you don't fancy investing, you can cut and run without outlay. I'd vote option 2, personally.
  5. Is the Cool Energy mentioned here https://coolenergyshop.com/?
  6. Hi, Out of interest (at a similar stage) where did you pick the U values from in the spec?
  7. Option 1, if only because the location of the laundry makes most sense. Otherwise you'll be carrying clothes from upstairs downstairs to the furthest most corner of the (large) building. I'd consider including a laundry chute or upstairs laundry room, you've got the size and there'll be a lot of carting clothes around.
  8. Thanks! I guess there's two parts, there's all the technical / building drawings, and then there's the more "internal" spec like doors and electrical points. And sounds like more detail the better, can't have too much. And I guess it's easier for the builder to quote.
  9. Perfect, thank you. I had been told by the architect that planning drawings are indicative as you guys say. I was hoping to get ahead of the specing for stuff that feels like it's on us (doors, finishes etc) in order to combine with the construction drawings. Our architect has a price for the planning drawings, then another for the technical ones / building regs. Do you feel this shouldn't be from an architect @Carrerahill? Would it be structural engineer?
  10. Hi, We've nearly finished the plans with the architect and will be likely submitting planning in the next week or so. Now we have planning drawings, we need to start getting quotes. However, I don't know what level of speccing us as customers need to do for the builder, and how to present it. The property has been empty for 2 years so we're hoping to use the 5% VAT level (https://www.gov.uk/guidance/buildings-and-construction-vat-notice-708#section8) for the builder to buy all materials that are eligible (e.g. likely a Howdens kitchen) I'm conscious if it's more about the fabric, but we haven't specified plug sockets, light switches, doors / handles, windows manufacturer etc, then wouldn't the builder just put in the most basic Wickes one of each, then we've got budget creep that's not as obvious initially? Is there a list somewhere of things that a builder would find helpful to have for the spec from the customer, rather than the architect, that I might not be aware of?
  11. Thanks all, really helpful (as always!) My usage is 50mile commute round trip 2-3 times a week the might be 200 mile visit to family etc every other weekend. Looks like 3 pin would be fine as I can leave it charging off road over night then worry about the longer runs with public if I need to.
  12. Potentially, a LR Polestar 2, which is 78Kw, Charge times listed as: Method kW Typical location Charging time (empty to full) Standard three-pin plug 2.3 Home 38.5 hours Dedicated home charging point 7.4 Home 12 hours Fast charger 22* Offices, car parks, leisure centres 8.25 hours* (limited to 11kW by the vehicle) Rapid charger 120 Motorway services, near major roads 32 minutes Although I have no idea if it's right, as never had an EV before! I guess these are all from empty though, and realistically I don't drive the longer ranges day to day so maybe stick with 3pin.
  13. Hi, I'm looking at getting an EV this year, and the work on the house wont (in all probability) start until early 2023. I'm thinking of getting one installed (~£600-£700), use it for perhaps 12 months, then have a period where the house is a building site so it'll need to be uninstalled, stored and then reinstalled when the work's done. I have no idea of how much the disconnecting / reconnecting might be, and whether the £350 government grant will have any issues of there being a gap in when it's "live". Has anyone done similar, what costs for disconnecting / reinstalling do I need to account for? Anything else I haven't thought about? I could use public chargers for the period until after the work, but that feels like a hassle and a premium Thanks!
  14. Personally, we like the idea of having an ensuite off a dressing room, not the main bedroom. Both a bit more private and practical too. I'd move the door to the wall with the the sinks. Not sure about the store either, and especially as you can't get in to it from within the house. If you really wanted it you could reduce the width of the shower room to create space to have a door into the store, and it also would widen the impression of that part of the hall as @Gus Potter has said.
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