Mr Punter

Possibly a factor. If you apply a coat of vinyl emulsion to the ceiling it will lower the amount of vapour that passes through the plasterboard and may help resolve the issue.

You would be better to have the 50mm under the rafters. For the flat section, rigid insulation on the deck, then waterproof membrane. Vent between the tiles and the Tyvek on the pitched section at eaves and dry ridges / hips. No ventilation for flat section as it is a proper warm roof.

Often I see insulation between rafters plus 50mm rigid insulation under rafters.

I think there is standard EPS and graphite EPS that has graphite added, is grey in colour and is about 20% more thermally efficient.

Large tree roots weigh a lot and nobody really wants them. Mud will kill the chainsaw and they take an age to dry enough to burn.

If the wall does collapse - which may take several years or not happen at all - I cannot see what would compel your neighbour to rebuild or replace it.

That looks like a King Post wall

Cheapest may be to extend the wall on the left to the end of the shower tray, then you will just need a 900 hinged or pivot door.

No. Just put the DPC on top of the concrete lapping a bit up the walls, then 50mm insulation, another layer of polythene and some t & g chipboard.

They do it with an anemometer. There was one on BH that went from person to person, but you can also hire them.

You are more likely to notice the supply air than the extract air. The supply air will feel slightly cooler. Have you commissioned the system so the valves are set up for the correct flows?

I really like sand / cement screed laid by a pro. I would not tackle this myself. Get the plasterer to do it and you on the mixer / barrow.

I would not run a pipe under a foundation. In fact, where we have had a pipe go slightly deeper to fall to an outlet we have increased the foundation depth so it is below the invert of the pipe. Make sure BC are happy with your proposed setup before you spend time laying the drains.

You could look at some plans and see what would suit. These are from an Irish site: http://blueprinthomeplans.ie/houseplans-sc.asp?sC_ID=117 but I am sure there are Scottish examples. I quite like this sort of thing but maybe without the side bits:

I don't like the arches. I think a double fronted 1 1/2 storey traditional style farmhouse would be good.

Yes no issue

You could have a wainscoting / panelled look with a shelf which may look good or a bit naff.

I have used Purple Bricks a couple of times and found them OK.

I was going to go for water trap but you beat me to it.

Saw cut the driveway for the trench so it will be easier to make good and the trench can be nice and neat. Make sure the meter positions are agreed with the utilities.

Our bricklayer managed half a day today. It looks OK for the rest of the week.

I have a ltd company doing new build property. We are caught by CDM and CIS taxation, as well as regular VAT returns (which are normally reclaims. We have Contractors All Risk insurance. If you want mains power tools you may be better with 230v so you don't need to schlep the transformer. Battery tools are fine for most jobs.

63mm is a lot more difficult to run, especially in cold weather.

Your drawing showed it laid to falls towards the sump and a channel. If it is just a flat (ish) slab you would need to build some falls towards the sump before you use the adjustable pedestals and slabs.

I don't think that they will remove it from the list. It does not look derelict to me, in the way that @JOE187's place is. The bit of displaced brickwork in the single skinned single storey lean-to will not be enough to convince them. The house looks fairly new, with cavity walls. No photos of the mould. For heating, a working electric supply would be sufficient.