Mr Punter

That certainly looks neat enough. Have you applied patination oil? Stops the unsightly white staining.

It varies depending on the layout and size of flat, communal ways sprinklers and alarms. Often I see FD60S on the front door to the flat and FD30 on the doors to habitable rooms. FD30 does not cost much more than non-rated so you may as well.

Yes attend. I think it looks like a great scheme. +1 to @Dave Jones if you can get a councillor on side it can help considerably.

hafele do lots of kitchen fittings but if you may find you can't just buy the odd piece and you have to get the whole assembly. Try google lens?

I have seen this done with aluminium flashing sized to suit and powder coated but it can get rather expensive.

I think the EXHAUST sensor is actually recording the INDOOR.

If this is in the winter I would expect to see INDOOR as the highest temperature as this is the stale air being taken into the unit and OUTDOOR being the lowest as it is outside air. After passing through the heat exchanger the INDOOR surrenders heat and is expelled at a lower temperature, recorded as EXHAUST. Meanwhile OUTDOOR takes on some heat and is fed to the rooms, recorded as SUPPLY.

I have had an engineer spec some special grout under the newel of a stair in a commercial building. I didn't bother doing it as the floor was concrete and the stair was only timber.

No I think exhaust air is air leaving the building from the unit, but I agree it is not always intuitive. The stale air from the room to the unit is extract air.

Is it plumbed in correctly?

You need to bat this back to the engineer. What you have suggested is rather close to the edge of the pad foundation.

Who did you go with instead, or are you still looking?

ChatGPT: Installing air conditioning onto a Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR) ductwork system can be a bit complicated, and it's usually best to consult a professional HVAC technician or engineer for proper installation. However, here are some general steps that may be involved in putting air con onto an MVHR ductwork: Determine the appropriate size and type of air conditioning system needed for your space, taking into account factors such as room size, insulation, and desired temperature range. Assess the existing ductwork system to see if it's compatible with the air conditioning system you plan to install. If the ductwork is too small or poorly designed, it may need to be modified or replaced to ensure proper airflow and ventilation. Install the air conditioning unit near the MVHR unit, ideally on the supply air side of the ductwork system. This will allow the air to be cooled before it enters the living space. Connect the air conditioning unit to the ductwork system using appropriate connectors and fittings. Make sure the connections are sealed properly to prevent air leaks. Install any necessary controls and sensors, such as a thermostat or temperature sensor, to ensure proper operation and regulation of the air conditioning system. Test the system to ensure it's functioning properly and delivering the desired temperature and air flow. Adjust settings as needed to optimize performance and efficiency. Again, it's important to note that installing air conditioning onto an MVHR ductwork system can be complex and may require professional assistance. Improper installation or modification of the system could result in reduced efficiency, increased energy costs, and even safety hazards.

Wall plate is not structural. It is the stuff underneath that is doing the holding up.

I know it sounds dismissive but you will need a building services engineer and structural engineer for the project.

Another vote for 4 x 3, although I think 4 x 2 is still acceptable.

You may be better with tissue faced PIR which is used for bonding roof membranes.

I have had 4 or 5 of these. What a complete waste of time and money. The only reason this happens is that it is "developer funded", so suddenly it is viable being an archaeologist. Comprehensive reports are compiled, together with photographic and physical records, all to be filed away at the County Archaeologist, never to be examined again by anyone. Meanwhile all the archaeologists get to live a comfortable middle-class life by adding to the costs of development while offering nothing of benefit in return by doing what used to be a hobby.

There is not a great deal of difference in the rates. Can you see which one is cheapest and put it through?

Get the MVHR spec'd and give this to your SAP person. MVHR differs from intermittent extractors as it uses the heat from stale extracted air to warm fresh incoming air, which it draws in mechanically through a large duct. The extract and intake air is distributed throughout via a series of ducts and vents to each room. Intermittent extractors just pull out internal air from kitchens and bathrooms and this is replaced with outside air entering through trickle vents at whatever the external air temperature happens to be.

Yes. Even more so if the lowest inner leaf block is not aircrete, as you will have a thermal bridge via the slab.

It only needs refrigerating before you use it in warm weather. If stored carefully it will last indefinitely.

A few layers of paint on a plasterboard ceiling is fairly vapour impermeable. Most of the vapour will be coming through light fittings, boxings, ill-fitting loft hatches etc.

I am very surprised you got the SAP calcs to work. It should have been flagged as a fail at the design stage. Aluminium frames need to be very high spec to get a decent u value. The alu clad and composite ones are far more energy efficient. Even if you got the windows at the minimum spec I doubt you could compensate elsewhere sufficiently to get this to work. Get back to your SAP person and get them to re-run this.

Can't you catch a few and sell them online to someone in Wuhan to offset your costs?