Mr Punter

Your drawing showed it laid to falls towards the sump and a channel. If it is just a flat (ish) slab you would need to build some falls towards the sump before you use the adjustable pedestals and slabs.

I don't think that they will remove it from the list. It does not look derelict to me, in the way that @JOE187's place is. The bit of displaced brickwork in the single skinned single storey lean-to will not be enough to convince them. The house looks fairly new, with cavity walls. No photos of the mould. For heating, a working electric supply would be sufficient.

Can't you have paving on adjustable pedestals and run the pipework under it?

By the time you have excavated, built retaining walls, incorporated waterproofing and perhaps insulation it could be very expensive. A site plan might help with suggestions.

If you have room it would be nicer to make your house properly detached from the neighbour. It may be preferable to have a gap of 1m between the retaining wall and the house wall but again this may not work on your plot.

No just the first bit the fan goes in. 100mm duct for the 15 and 30 models.

I have put in lots of these fans. The Icon 30 gives a stronger extract but needs a larger hole cut. I like the delayed start module so the fan does not come on for short visits. I bought 35 from someone on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/stc120pinner and contacted him directly for a price.

That sounds like proper woodworking. I would probably lose a couple of fingers attempting this.

That is a shame. Properly done it could look far better than currently. No more cement based pointing, concrete cills and lintels, brick stretcher window reveals and metal roof. Did the Conservation Officer entirely dismiss the idea?

Can you knock it down and rebuild properly? You could reuse the stone and lay it in proper lime mortar, but have proper insulation, airtightness, services etc.

There is a recent thread with someone using beam and block for an external paved area. If you are feeling paranoid you could paint the beam ends with bitumen.

I would steer clear of spray foam insulation. Mortgage companies and insurers are risk averse and scare stories have frightened them off.

I have just re-read the OP and note these are Pozi joists, so shaping the ends ist verboten.

You could get a right angle adapter https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184890885289

Depending on the joist sizes you can often just shape the ends to fit in the steel with noggins between.

All construction work falls under CDM, so if someone comes to decorate your lounge they would be assuming the role of principal designer and principal contractor. Bollocks really.

Not so but the tag indicates that the scaffold may have been inspected. From HSE: "Must I use a tag system on a scaffold? A. Although tag systems are not a legal requirement, the law does require inspection of scaffolding from which a person might fall 2 metres or more and the issue of a report by a competent person, on completion and at least weekly thereafter."

Most of these are best plugged in elsewhere with the cable coming out behind the device, so the wiring is hidden.

I have not seen this before. What is it called / used for?

A friend of mine has done this. Sloping site and I think they can access a reduced height space under the patio for storage. Your concrete retaining wall looks good.

If the tiles are OK you could just strip, felt, batten and relay the worst sections.

It looks like they determine 74% within 8 weeks. If you submit an application you will find out if you are one of them.

East Suffolk seem to be taking about 3-4 months. Probably typical.

The easement need not be recorded and mostly prescriptive easements are not.

I have never heard of BC getting involved in these matters. I think your neighbour has the right to discharge their gutter into the downpipe as they have acquired an easement through unchallenged use. I don't know how this would lead to you having a damp issue.