Mr Punter

I wonder what the ties are for? I think they are normally there to restrain the brickwork. In your case you already have a structurally sound shell and I assume your timber frame is mainly there for plasterboard, insulation and maybe upper floor support, so you may not need ties in the same way. One for a SE I think.

These are normally cold fill only, so will not impact on your HW but may do on your mains flow requirements. Your shower flow rates don't meet building regs.

I remember an earlier post regarding water under your slab and clay soil. We careful with creating deep holes / tanks as they may just fill with water.

A bit silly. The RAK ones seem just as good and are half the price. https://www.heatandplumb.com/acatalog/rak-ceramics-resort-toilet-rstwhpan

Ah this captures the very spirit of buildhub!

The best deals are from wrong orders, mis-measures etc. I once got 27 high quality internal doors from ebay. They were supposed to be FD60 and got made as FD30, so sold to the highest bidder. They were a mix of 926 626 and I stored them for a while and sized the openings to use all of them. Saved over 90% and they delivered!

I have just used these at 120mm to fix some 6x2 supports to a rendered lightweight block wall. I used a 7.5mm wood bit for the clearance holes, an 8mm masonry bit just to go through the render and then a 6mm for the length of the screw plus 10mm. You may need different if it is concrete block. If you are doing lots, make sure you have a few of the driver bits. I think they are TX30 and there is only 1 in the box.

If they are on a price it does not make much difference if they take lots of breaks. Different on day work and if that is the case I would be concerned. Mention the electric bill and ban the heater to the boss. I don't see the need for a heater just to keep warm. If they are cold they should put more clothes on or work harder.

It is temporary works so often the contractor would be responsible for the design. Don't take the liability for this yourself. If the beams run perpendicular to the wall you could spread the load over several beams with scaffold boards. If they are parallel it is more tricky as all the load will be taken by the beam nearest the wall.

I understand that you can't have sockets within 3m of the edge a bath or shower (which rules them out for most bathrooms), but I think switches are OK if not within 600mm. I am no expert on this though.

If they are externally glazed you have the beads external. Drain holes are obvs leading to outside.

I think a decent interior designer could create something. They could also do the bathroom in your other thread.

It would be really good to have insulation all around the windows. You could use insulated plasterboard and stick it on.

The side panels are not mirror symmetrical with the colours. Is that on purpose?

I think your architect know their onions. How long does the technical detail lock in the consent? 4K is not a fortune in the great scheme of things.

Hello and welcome. There are lots of members who will be glad to share their knowledge and experience. Quite a few from Scotland as well. Feel free to ask any questions.

Nice job. Did that package in the foreground come from @pocster?

I had my garage roof covering replaced with insulated composite panels to stop condensation. I also added 4 x 100mm vent holes at high level through the back wall to get some air flow. Seems OK now.

Give the floor a good soak with a hose. Use a sloppy sand cement mix and brush it in. I have used sharp sand cement before but building sand is easier.

You may be able to have the isolator switches for the boiler and washing machine in the room on the left and outlets in the shower room. You could even have a hole in the wall and socket in the other room if you don't want to take the plug off the washing machine.

You may be better dealing with the HR ventilation as a separate thing to the heat pump. I doubt that you could get all-in-one.

Everything about that looks crap. Even the soffits look pissed.

If you cut the timber to the lengths you want, rather than have a few mil difference in opposite sides, you can just screw it together and square it by making the diagonals the same length.

How about white sand and normal cement? I have had to get sand delivered from Cornwall to get the mortar colour looking OK.