Mr Punter

I think you may need to butcher a third door to make the sloping bit look OK.

I am looking at washing machine in bathroom and the simplest way looks like a plug on a flex through the wall plugging into a socket in the adjacent room. Could do a switched spur one side with outlet the other but that would mean cutting the plug off.

If you do the short stack with AAV you can include rodding access.

He's done it to keep his "visitors" disorientated.

Can you install a short stack with an AAV on top and connect into that?

It would make David Brent feel at home.

If this is a terrace and most others have changed to PVC you could do the same. You can get the gutter cleaned out with a long reach vacuum for around £100. It has rained a lot. It is all gutters, damp and leaks at the moment.

I have used it in a basement and it seemed to be fine. They have BBA. Polarwall guy came down for the pour. We had one burst because one of the people who assembled it used a single tie across 2 rails. Not a disaster as the bulge was on the backfill side.

There is a potential world of pain here. What exactly do you want your window firm to do to satisfy you?

Southern Water likes to discharge their raw sewage into rivers if they can't discharge into the sea.

Hi Craig Do they stick to the underside of the ali sill or fit on the bottom of the opening? Also, are they available in UK?

It may be that the timber frame design just uses 2 studs either side of doorways even if non loadbearing. I think the newel post could be helping support the landing. If you take this wall out and something does start moving or sagging it should be possible to retrieve the situation with an acrow. I have had to do this in the past and we had a SE look at it before we started.

You would normally just tamp the foundation concrete with a rake. No need to vibrate. There is no problem having steps in the foundation. You can build on 300mm depth concrete as long as it is far enough below ground so the bottom is protected from frost. Depends on ground conditions. Definitely leave at least 225 bgl. May need to be lower for drainage etc.

You often do not need a building services engineer for a house. You could get an architectural draftsman to mark up electrics, bathroom firm to do layouts, MVHR supplier to do the design, UFH supplier would do similar.

I can't see an issue with that build-up.

If it is in an en-suite or WC the delayed start timer is really good. It gives you about a minute before it kicks in.

You need a proper base. Have a look at Paving Expert https://www.pavingexpert.com/ceramic_01

They look pretty good to me. Being 25 years old, south facing and with no units failed from misting up is quite an achievement. I would not get too obsessive about sealing all draughts as I don't see any trickle vents and unless you have some other form of ventilation you may get more mould rather than less.

It is worth scraping the topsoil off around the proposed footprint and backfilling with crushed concrete so you have a clean apron around the perimeter. If there is space on site, stockpile the topsoil, otherwise muckaway and bring in more later. As early as possible get a decent access so that plant and materials can get on and off the site without being up to the axels in mud.

This sounds like it will be very expensive! The other side needs to appoint a Charted Surveyor.

If you are happy with MF it may be easier. You can suspend it from the existing joists. Are the pipes going in the new void? They look a bit in the way.

If there are engineering bricks below it will be fine.

I think you may have to sell your existing house and rent while the new one is being built.

Plaster and skirting takes up about 30-40mm.

I am using beads in a 150mm cavity with facing brickwork. I am going to apply a coat of Stormdry masonry cream to stop water penetration.