Mr Punter

buy cheap buy twice springs to mind

Perhaps consider someone to do supply and fit? Leave it to them to measure, design, install and guarantee a robust and watertight solution. Either that OR send them a proper drawing and specification of what you require.

Can you cap off one end and fill with water?

What make of pipe?

Why not face fix the posts to the brickwork?

What is the height of fall?

You will normally ask for GEN1 concrete for foundations. S3 is the default slump. You will normally reserve a bit extra.

Try Foamtech. I used them for XPS a few years ago and they were competitive.

"Water Cut Off Mastic is a butyl blend mastic used for sealing membrane edges when creating a compression type termination. Water Cut Off Mastic is extremely tacky and will remain so through its life. It must be used with a termination bar or similar compression type seal. Intended Uses Water Cut Off Mastic is primarily used as a sealing agent between various membranes and applicable when membrane is being terminated using a compression. Features and Benefits *Extremly Tacky *Provides a durable compression type seal between various membranes and parapet wall constructionsCoverage Rate 3 linear metres per tube at the recommended application rate of at 11mm bead."

Not for planning, just for building regs. Make sure you show the walls / floors / roof thick enough, otherwise you may struggle to get the scheme to work with the required thickness of insulation.

It is where we are (Southern Water). They claim it is because the bigger meters don't measure as accurately so you could be using water that does not register if the flow is low.

Thanks Nick It is often the most obvious route that I am blind to. Following your advice I have now contacted the supplier (where we bought most of the sanitary ware) and following a visit from them today they will get back to the manufacturer and hopefully we will get some resolution. I can understand that showers can be a bit slippery, but once this is wet, it is like it is coated in eel juice! I will keep you updated, as now we have fitted 14 trays and boarded and tiled the walls any remedy may be "tricky"...

Look at porcelain for the walls - very durable, non- absorbent, hard as, looks beautiful, and LVT (posh vinyl) for the floors - looks fantastic, huge range of finishes, slip resistant, easy clean and warm. Both reasonable cost. No weird maintenance. Do not DIY install unless you have the skills and experience with these.

Grout. I like a mix of sharp and building sand + cement. Any ponding will do no harm. It is easier to do on a bigger area. A few years ago it was not uncommon just to brush sand rather than properly grouting! Doing the proper job with sand and cement really strengthens the floor as it ties the beams and blocks together. If you are screeding, it doesn't matter if the finish is less than pretty.

Is that a mix of Poratherm type and concrete blocks and if so why?

I have done a soldier pile wall using steel columns concreted into the ground with railway sleepers spanning. This can look good in a garden. What is to prevent falling from the edge?

If it were me I would provide evidence of the gabions being satisfactory and suggest that your competitor does likewise for their proposal. It is not for you to disprove someone else's scheme. You could mention that you have not heard of similar being approved for such an application.

I can't see a problem, but it should be OK anyway to be in contact with the earthwool.

Also, bear in mind that gas and electric cos will not work when you have scaffold, so it is either soon or very much later. I also like to connect temporary downpipes to the drainage to keep the site tidy.

I am keen on getting all service trenches, ducting and pipework in as early on if it is possible. It means you get all the excavation done and backfilled and a clean, safe, level site. The main issues are protection from vehicles and scaffolding, and making sure any ducting is suitably sized for the subsequent service to be pulled / pushed through.

The cost of the mediation is less via phone. The mediator does not decide the outcome they will just put your points to the other party and try to see if there is an area where you are willing to settle. You will probably both need to compromise more than you feel comfortable with, but in any case with disputes such as this it is unlikely that a court would go for a slam dunk decision, as neither party was blameless.

I would have just gone mineral wool and not faff around.

I have done mediation via telephone. The outcome was acceptable. I think the court like you to do this if it is offered.

Free to collector would be first choice. Don't use an angle grinder on the gravel as it may well flick up a stone. In fact, don't use an angle grinder at all if you do not think you are competent. If you do, use a thin blade. Goggles and gloves are a must.

A friend who does fits these like FAAC kit and Videx intercoms as they are reliable. +1 to @newhome and the safety aspects. If the gates are solid and tall they will offer a large resistance to wind. Galv metal ones can be easier to install and maintain.