Mr Punter

Maybe try www.gardenlaw.co.uk

The architect detail shows the lowest slate resting on the blockwork. When the building shrinks this may cause a problem. I think you may need some rafter feet attached to the end of the roof to take your guttering. In the past I have just attached 50 x 25 batten to this for the over fascia vent to go on and added a further 100 x 25 section below this later after the wall cladding was done. Overclad the lot in aluminium.

Be useful to see the drawings from the architect as they need to factor in supporting structure, decking / floor finish, insulation, waterproofing, drainage, door threshold details, wall abutment detail and parapet detail. They cold roof means you also have ventilation / condensation risk. For a warm roof, why can't MBC just build the structure to appropriate falls for you roof contractor to add vapour barrier, insulation and waterproofing? With the cold roof proposed, is this completed by MBC with all required ventilation / waterproofing?

Relax it will not be an issue. Add more cement and water, maybe with some plasticiser / washing up liquid. Also, hose pipe over everything. You could do nothing and it will still be OK. Remember that most sites probably don't bother.

We have put IdealCombi in our latest project. We used a combination of inward and outward opening.

It sounds like you have reached the end of the road with this person. I favour getting an architect to work the design up to planning consent stage and using a different firm for building regs. Make sure when you appoint that that is the understanding and they will hand over the CAD files. Needless to say you may need to do a bit more research / look at the designs, planning success rates etc before you choose next time.

On sites they will normally lead with the blockwork and never attempt to clean the snots off the brickwork or use a board to catch any droppings. The standard is, sadly, just do it a quickly and easily as possible. I think that brickwork first is better, but there are some decent bricklayers on here who may give better advice.

No, your lights will be fine.

It needs to be designed so a 100mm sphere cannot pass through.

We just added a capping of MDF architrave to the top of the stair strings and installed LED strip underneath.

If you are completely in the dry, try a floor sander. What are the floor finishes?

It looks a bit high compared to the step up to floor level (220mm v 100mm?)

buy cheap buy twice springs to mind

Perhaps consider someone to do supply and fit? Leave it to them to measure, design, install and guarantee a robust and watertight solution. Either that OR send them a proper drawing and specification of what you require.

Can you cap off one end and fill with water?

What make of pipe?

Why not face fix the posts to the brickwork?

What is the height of fall?

You will normally ask for GEN1 concrete for foundations. S3 is the default slump. You will normally reserve a bit extra.

Try Foamtech. I used them for XPS a few years ago and they were competitive.

"Water Cut Off Mastic is a butyl blend mastic used for sealing membrane edges when creating a compression type termination. Water Cut Off Mastic is extremely tacky and will remain so through its life. It must be used with a termination bar or similar compression type seal. Intended Uses Water Cut Off Mastic is primarily used as a sealing agent between various membranes and applicable when membrane is being terminated using a compression. Features and Benefits *Extremly Tacky *Provides a durable compression type seal between various membranes and parapet wall constructionsCoverage Rate 3 linear metres per tube at the recommended application rate of at 11mm bead."

Not for planning, just for building regs. Make sure you show the walls / floors / roof thick enough, otherwise you may struggle to get the scheme to work with the required thickness of insulation.

It is where we are (Southern Water). They claim it is because the bigger meters don't measure as accurately so you could be using water that does not register if the flow is low.

Thanks Nick It is often the most obvious route that I am blind to. Following your advice I have now contacted the supplier (where we bought most of the sanitary ware) and following a visit from them today they will get back to the manufacturer and hopefully we will get some resolution. I can understand that showers can be a bit slippery, but once this is wet, it is like it is coated in eel juice! I will keep you updated, as now we have fitted 14 trays and boarded and tiled the walls any remedy may be "tricky"...

Look at porcelain for the walls - very durable, non- absorbent, hard as, looks beautiful, and LVT (posh vinyl) for the floors - looks fantastic, huge range of finishes, slip resistant, easy clean and warm. Both reasonable cost. No weird maintenance. Do not DIY install unless you have the skills and experience with these.