Mr Punter

Standard for plumbers, I am afraid. They like to run hot and cold services next to each other with no insulation because it is quicker and they don't give a **** about whether you have to run the tap for a minute to get water at the correct temperature. I am sure there are exceptions but none have worked on my sites.

We had some concrete nice and level but not as flat as I wanted. I paid for a supply and place liquid levelling compound supposed to be good for 2-10mm. Ended up worse for level than just the concrete, so sent them packing after 50% complete. I think they were used to doing Gyvlon at 50mm, which requires little skill.

I would lose the render and replace with granite, but that could be a budget issue. Failing that, natural slate or zinc, but it will look rather dark overall.

I would go with the VAT company. You will also need to register for CIS and be aware that Health and Safety requirements can be more onerous. Regarding finance could you get a Buy To Let on your current house?

Yes the beamshield stuff is sculpted to fit the beams snugly. We had the Plus version and it wraps under the beams as well. Fairly solid to walk on. We had very wide beams and there was a fair amount for the insulation to bear on. @Russell griffiths DIY option is not a bad shout though... Maybe reduce the insulation width to, say, 400mm, as I think it would be strong enough and fit with sheet widths. Once you have the top 50mm, it will be quite solid.

I have had Beamshield supplied and fitted by Charcon. They supplied the beams, craned them in and installed the polystyrene. My only critisism is that it took ages to get Sprigvale to pick up the surplus polystyrene but I think this is an industry wide issue as it is expensive to transport to a recycling facility. We got another firm to do 75mm concrete and mesh. You can tell the supplier what loadings you want it for. We wanted to build blockwork ground floor walls and got a spec accordingly. You would not know it from a solid concrete floor. Cost was £17,300 for the Beamshield and £5,700 for the concreting about 340m2, so £68 per metre. 2 years ago. Probably more for a smaller area.

Worth bearing in mind that over that period house price inflation was 220%. Did you get the land "free"?

I have had a staircase going from a living room and I would not repeat it. Noise / smells etc. An en-suite upstairs may be good. I can't see fridge / freezer / oven / microwave / dishwasher in the kitchen and there is not much storage there. Woodburners can quickly overheat a well insulated space.

I am pleased they don't do a soap dispenser version...

Can they not use aluminium cable?

Do the gas network have any easement or wayleave? When you bought the property were you aware of the gas main on your land? Service plans are rarely very accurate. If it is shown on your land the location can be very approximate and as you say, it is easier to soft dig than to remove / replace flagstones. If you want it done quickly, contact the emergency number and say your groundworker has just hit a pipe and you think you can smell gas.

Unless this is 4 storey plus, brick / cavity / block construction gives adequate fire resistance. The cavity is not strongly ventilated enough for the chimney effect. The weepholes may allow an external fire into the cavity, but the building would likely be compromised by then in any case.

OK Consider ripping out all the timber and sleeper walls, compact the sub base, stone / crushed concrete. Insulation then concrete or concrete, insulation, screed or chipboard.

If you have a ceiling height of at least 2350mm and you would be willing to lose 50mm, you could consider adding 30mm Celotex insulation on top of the floorboards with 22mm t&g chipboard on top. This will make a huge difference compared to an uninsulated floor. You would need to cut the door bottoms and remove the skirting and either replace or refit.

2 bits of drainage can be tested: below ground can either be blocked at the lowest chamber and filled with water to see if the level drops, or block off individual pipe runs with an air test. Inside pipework is also needed to be air tested. All the test details are in the Building Regs Part H. If you used a plumber, they should be able to help. Even if you didn't you may want to get one in to test the system for the Building Inspector to witness (normally test first to make sure it is OK).

The void under a timber floor should normally be ventilated to the outside via airbricks. This stops moisture forming under the floor. I would not have thought that cold bridging from the joists would make much difference.

Looks very posh for a Crossfit!

Maybe see if BC pick it up. They really should but I often see stuff which doesn't comply. Not sure if they were modified after BC final.

It may be best to ask the supplier / manufacturer / designer as it should be their responsibility for the design / spec.

They will look at mechanical ventilation, smoke detectors, opening windows, 100mm gaps to stairs and want to have access to Gas, Electric, EPC / air tests and will often want to witness an air test of the waste system. Sometimes they can just get a couple of things that everyone gets caught on - like locks on escape windows or thumb turns on escape doors or spy holes.

OK but I would not cut into the neighbours sewer line - just put in a new IC and connect this to the brick IC

It should be fine if you add in the extra chamber before the final one. Who is Bb?

That is because it is shown from the outside in plan view, where the glass covers most of the frame. If you look at the sections it is fairly clear and the dimensions are to the outside of the frame and the frame covers the upstands. On the basis that you need some more windows, find out the MINIMUM they are prepared to charge, then perhaps do a letter before action saying what you are prepared to accept. That will put you in better standing at Court, as you have made a reasonable attempt to negotiate a fair settlement. Keep all correspondence civil.

Did they send a dimensioned drawing for each window? The drawing you posted earlier gives a dimension showing the overall window size. If you agreed that these were correct you may be on sticky ground.

Did you sign the drawings? If so, just try to negotiate. If not, claim that they should have worked to the structural opening sizes supplied by you and that you considered that the drawings they sent were only indicative of a standard detail and were not being relied upon for finished window sizes.