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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Mr Punter
    If you have space and one of the TF crew can drive a telehandler this may prove more useful and cheaper.
  2. Mr Punter
    You may want to consider demolition of the existing building. This will free up some potential design restraints, make the construction simpler and you will be able to reclaim the VAT.
  3. Mr Punter
    Tilt turn are good on upper floors as they can be cleaned from the inside. Downside is they will clash with curtains or blinds. To clean outward opening windows from the inside you need either top hung reversible or side guided, where the hinge slides towards the middle of the window to allow cleaning.
  4. Mr Punter
    The people we use do outline and elevations of the nearby buildings as well which is helpful in setting out and if you need context elevations. The survey information forms the basis of all other drawing information. Later we get them back to set out on the foundation concrete the corners of the walls, the centres of soil pipes and steelwork, wind posts and baseplates, all marked with a Hilti pin. They are very accurate.
  5. Mr Punter
    This is something that makes sense but I never see it happen on site.
  6. Mr Punter
    No problem at all. Most garages are just single skin and while they can get a bit damp in extreme conditions they are OK. If you plan to use the garage as a workshop you may want to insulate the cavity.
  7. Mr Punter
    OK get the ply screwed down, then tile the walls, then grout and polish, then fit shower screen and complete plumbing and wiring, then paint ceiling, then fit LVT, then mastic.
  8. Mr Punter
    We have grown Eleagnus (x Ebbingi?) in the past as a screen. Evergreen, grew tall and has fragrant flowers in winter. Quite tough too.
  9. Mr Punter
    I suggest that you do not go shopping for a sofa if you are tired and have be traipsing round for hours, as everything you sit on will feel comfortable in relation to the hell that is shopping. You will be tempted into anything so as not to prolong the retail pain.
  10. Mr Punter
    You could take this approach...
  11. Mr Punter
    What a great looking project - amazingly ambitious - especially for a 1st build! Just the excavation looks like it would have been quite daunting.
  12. Mr Punter
    I like Egger Protect 22mm chipboard. The coating is permanent and on both sides so if you have subsequent leaks it should not turn to Weetabix too quickly.
  13. Mr Punter
    We have fitted limestone in some bathrooms. It needs to be sealed regularly and kept clean. Not very practical but it looks good. We now use LVT (luxury vinyl tile) for floors and porcelain for walls.
  14. Mr Punter
    Not sure what the issue is. Does the cable offend? If so, do as @joe90 suggests.
  15. Mr Punter
    You should have a chamber near the boundary of your property. Make the drains up to that point as shallow as possible as they will be cheaper and safer to lay and easier to access and rod if ever needed (which they probably won't be). Lay the bit from your chamber to the sewer connection as steep as is needed.
  16. Mr Punter
    No, as long as it is over 1:60 there is no maximum. You should, however, provide access / inspection points at the change in gradient.
  17. Mr Punter
    Depending on the main sewer size you may be able to connect via a saddle connection.
  18. Mr Punter
    Put air bricks on opposite sides and if possible all sides. They rely on a flow of natural air. If the garage is enclosed there may be an issue with poor air entering under the building.
  19. Mr Punter
    Dig it all as shallow as possible with a fall of 1:40 to 1:60 connected to a chamber near the boundary of your property, then you can connect to the sewer at any gradient you like as long as it is greater than 1:60. So you may be at, say 600 invert at your last chamber and drop down from there to the 2.5m on the foul drain, where you may have a radiant like 1:1. I think with surface water you may even be allowed to connect in with an internal backdrop but you would need to check.
  20. Mr Punter
    Our EA flood level - on the river bank - is 1:100 years plus 300mm.
  21. Mr Punter
    And the guidance accords with this: “Generally, the aim should be to discharge surface run off as high up the following hierarchy of drainage options as reasonably practicable: 1. into the ground (infiltration); 2. to a surface water body; 3. to a surface water sewer, highway drain, or another drainage system; 4. to a combined sewer.”
  22. Mr Punter
    Looking at @vivienz MBC house in it looks like they have the Smartply passive boards plus tape on the inside.
  23. Mr Punter
    The PD rights can also be removed via an Article 4 direction by the LPA which can cover lots of properties but normally in conservation areas etc.
  24. Mr Punter
    I am not surprised. How is the land currently drained? Having surface water discharging into combined or, worse, foul sewers, is not considered the way forward re SUDs, flooding, etc.
  25. Mr Punter
    As you just have a pool and a gym you would not need to consider acoustic issues. Although the gym could, in future, be used as a bedroom, it looks unlikely and the regs only take account of the current usage. An example is that you will need a heat detector in a kitchen, but if it were to become a lounge or bedroom you may need a smoke detector.
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