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About Piers

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    Hampshire/Surrey border

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  1. Now this is not the end. It is not even the beginning of the end. but it is, perhaps, the end of the beginning. Coming up on 2 years since we first instructed our architect and over 8 months from submitting our planning application, we have finally been granted permission. It's been a tale of missed bat season, incompetent planning officer, excruciatingly slow conservation officer, numerous complaints and all capped off with some pretty ridiculous pre-construction conditions. But we're there! In the time it's taken us, I've done back to brick renovations on 5 projects plus a couple of loft and rear extensions plus we've had a child and a global pandemic (which I blame on our resident brown long-eared bats) Oh and we've also completed our permitted development outbuilding/yoga studio/stealth shed All I'm hoping for now is to get the foundations in before winter.
  2. Now that's an excellent idea - I like it. Any idea how one calculates length of ground array?
  3. @Jeremy Harris do you get cold feet in the summer?! We could put a standalone aircon/refridgeration unit into the pantry with an extractor vent. Should solve the condensation risk. I was trying to be clever by using the cooled down fluid returning into the ground array to cool the pantry Maybe it's not possible/practical
  4. True, that makes sense. Are you suggesting a heat pump just for cooling the pantry room? Wouldn't that be quite expensive? Can one connect 2 heat pumps to the same ground array or would I need to double up on that? This is where my understanding of GSHP ends!
  5. I'm not sure I follow, though it's probably my rudimentary understanding of GSHP. I thought that the fluid coming in through the ground loop is "warm" and that going out is "cold". The temperature change being the heat pump acting like a reverse refrigeration unit. If the "cold" fluid exits the building via a radiator in the pantry would that not cool the room and warm the fluid? Does it matter if the "cold" fluid going back out into the ground array has been slightly warmed up after it exits the pump? Surely that what happens in the ground loop anyway?
  6. True. I'd actually want cooling at all times so would need to work that out
  7. Hi Everyone! Hope you're all well and not going stir crazy. Over New Year 2020 I visited an old uni friend in Norway. We stayed outside Oslo in a cabin in the woods which his parents built about 10-15 years ago. The building is heated using GSHP and UFH. At one point in our stay I was sent to the basement to retrieve a bottle of white wine from their cold room, which was like a sauna room with the temperature turned way down. It was about 3m by 1.8m, all wood panelled with some shelves and a thick, insulated door with rubber seals. What particularly piqued my interest was that it was bang next door to their GSHP plant room. And I wanted to know whether the GSHP would be used to both heat the house and cool this "pantry-room". Was the cooling, actually waste from the heating? Now we're (still) designing our new build and have set aside a space in the basement for a plant room and pantry - I'm wondering how I could replicate the set up. Naturally I asked my friend, who didn't have a clue! Is this a set up that anyone has come across before? I've got a few questions and would be grateful for any answers or even a little conjecture! 1. Can one use "waste cooling" from a GSHP to cool a room? 2. How does one regulate the temperature? 3. Are there suppliers who sell kits for cool rooms? 4. Would anyone try DIYing it - insulate a basement box, vent and stick a blimmin' huge door on it? 5. What pitfalls can you envisage? Thanks all and stay safe
  8. For my next trick I'm looking to cancel the new BT connection (within 14 day cooling off period innit) and sign up to a service that does free calls to mobiles (Now Broadband). I've run into a problem and hoping someone might have encountered it before or have some clever ideas. I now have 2 lines into my property: 1 to the house and 1 (the new one) to our outbuilding. We're in contract with BT for another 9 months at the house and so can't jump ship. However the new connection to the outbuilding, which has a separate phone and account number, can be cancelled within 14 days of activation (earlier this week). The problem is that both lines are registered at the same address and the potential new ISP tells me that if they try to take over the outbuilding line, they'll get both. And this will trigger any early exit fees (or I'll just pay twice). They suggested I register a new postal address with Openreach and get the new line assigned to that address. My address is: "Grey Cottage, ABC Road, Town, County, WX12 3YZ" and my plan is to try to get the outbuilding registered as "The Studio, Grey Cottage, ABC etc...." So, I'm now in the process of trying to work out how this can be done.... I've filled in a generic broadband enquiry form with Openreach and am waiting to see if this is the route to take (this was suggested by the ISP) Has anyone ever done anything similar? As an aside, I'm moderately terrified that if it all goes wrong and the world turns against me that I could receive a council tax bill at the new address. And that would be a complete nuisance to unpick. I'm counting on Openreach not sharing address data with other organisations except ISPs. I really don't want to create a proper new postal address for what is essentially a glorified garden shed!
  9. So.....6 weeks later and the new phone line has finally been installed. I've had numerous visits and met the full gamut of Openreach engineers and their mates from Kelly Communications. I reckon that we've had 5-6 engineer visits (that we've seen) plus another 1-2 who've just worked at the cabinet. Can't be much money in it, as the total cost from BT for the new connection was £70! Happily for me, as it's taken 6 weeks they've had to stump up £210 in compensation.
  10. Thank you @JSHarris, as it happens I'm awfully clumsy with a chainsaw I'll have a word with my local Openreach chap and ask for the ducting
  11. Thanks all. Very helpful. We weren't given any contact details for Openreach. They just told us that they'll turn up on a certain date between 1pm and 6pm to complete the install. Guess we'll contact their main contact number and see how we get on. Whilst on the subject of Openreach, has anyone got any experience of having an overhead phone line moved underground? We've have 2 telegraph poles in our garden, that carried both power and phone line and we want to get rid of them. I've managed to get SSE to remove their power lines and we've run our own SWA underground. But Openreach are asking £300+VAT just to conduct a site survey and then provide a quote for the works. One of the reasons we want to get the phone line down is to cut down a tree. I must confess I'm somewhat tempted to drop the tree on the line, cut down the telegraph poles and when they come out to fix the line, tell them I want them to run the replacement cable underground.....and TA-DAAA....there's a fresh trench with duct waiting for them. But it's a bit of sh*t's trick and if I was on the other side I'd want to punish me with a hefty bill for damaging their equipment. There must be a better way?
  12. Does anyone know if Openreach have any (annoyingly precise) requirements for ducting in trenches when laying a new phone line? We're planning to dig our own trench across our garden (40m long by 30cm deep) from new building to base of telephone pole and stick in some cheap plastic ducting (50mm maybe). I'm conscious that utility providers can be funny about depth and type of ducting. It'd be blimmin' annoying for Openreach to turn up and tell us we've done the wrong thing. And before someone tells me to call my ISP or Openreach - I've tried! BT tell me that Openreach will "sort it out on the day". Openreach said its "site dependent". I explained what the site looked like and the guy said, "the engineer will tell you on the day".
  13. Yes, absolutely. They're going to be braced. I just remember someone telling me that ASHP doesn't really make sense for a building of this size. I was also told that because the floor is timber and suspended off the ground, we won't have an awful lot of thermal mass to heat using UFH (and to retain heat after the UFH goes off). I think that's what @JSHarris is saying too Are you saying that, as the lesser of two evils, direct electric rads are going to be cheaper to run than direct electric UFH? @SteamyTea, what kind of A2A have you got? Something like this: //www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/iqool-2ms9k9k/tcl-iqool2ms9k9k-air-conditioner
  14. "You could heat it with a candle, mate" was what a visiting roofer told me recently. He thought we'd overdone it by installing insulation properly and (horror of horrors) taping joints. But now I AM thinking about how to heat it (our PD outbuilding) and I'd hoping for some advice/tips/sales pitches/etc. This is what it currently looks like: : It's about 55m2 inside - 3 rooms inc. open-plan workshop, yoga studio and a bathroom. Strictly incidental use as it's a PD building. The building is too small for ASHP (IMO) and doesn't have access to gas. We're looking at ways to heat it with 'leccy. Default idea was to stick some electric rads in. But my Polish plumber has persuaded me to look at Termofol, infrared UFH. He tells me it's very popular in Poland. (https://termofol.co.uk/) Has anyone used this stuff, or anything similar? Any good? Limitations? The other idea, which I'm a bit less keen on, is using wall-mounted infrared panels like those made by Herschel (https://www.herschel-infrared.co.uk/) and others. Has anyone tried these? I'm really open to ideas on this. And if nothing works out, I've always got a candle as a fallback....