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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Mr Punter
    Excellent. I was still going by the old version.
  2. Mr Punter
    https://www.nwleics.gov.uk/files/documents/water_efficiency_calculator_bredclg/Water Calculator.xls If you scroll to the Basic Calc tab at the bottom and just fill in the first column should be fine. If you get stuck I will post a completed one.
  3. Mr Punter
    Does not sound good. Have a look at http://info.labcwarranty.co.uk/foundation-calculator If you are on clay you may have problems. The calculation assumes the tree will reach 10m.
  4. Mr Punter
    Be careful regarding trees, as even if small, if you intend to keep them you will need use the fully mature height when working out your foundation depths. Planning do not communicate with Building Control. The Water Calculator is a spreadsheet which you can download. Normally you need to consume less than 125l per day by specifying taps, baths, WCs and showers that are low consumption. A paper exercise but some tap and shower manufacturers have stuff that mixes air into the flow, so it still feels like a powerful flow but reduces the consumption. Makes no difference how many WCs, taps etc in the house, just how efficient.
  5. Mr Punter
    Hi Richard Are you also doing worktop, sink and taps? How many units and what sort of budget do you have in mind? Sticking with the same layout? As @jack said, photos are a great way for others to snoop / assess!
  6. Mr Punter
    Like others have said, just galvanise - don't bother with the powder coat.
  7. Mr Punter
    Extremely difficult to get an A without PV. What did your air test score?
  8. Mr Punter
    £1,899.00 http://www.appliancecity.co.uk/liebherr/fridges-and-freezers/sbsef7242/product-23032/
  9. Mr Punter
    I have had a Liebherr fridge freezer. The only issue was the handles broke. Instead of just being fixed to the door, they worked by levering against the the appliance when opening to make the magnetic seal open more easily but this made for a weakness and the replacements were expensive.
  10. Mr Punter
    OK. You should have had a SAP assessment carried out at the design stage and it would include details of the u values for all the elements of the house, as well as the heating system and airtightness target. The cost is about £100 - £150. They will also produce a Predicted Energy Assessment meaning that if you build as per the SAP your building will comply with part L. Don't sweat on the thermal bridges, just fill in the checklist from the link I posted above that most closely resembles what you have.
  11. Mr Punter
    What did your design SAP specify? Normally they will say that you build to standard ACDs, then, before doing the final SAP and EPC the assessor will ask you to indicate which details you used. http://webarchive.nationalarchives.gov.uk/20141202102454/http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/wood_frame_illustrations.pdf Using the ACDs allows you energy assessor to apply a value in a table for thermal bridging. I would not over-complicate this as it is box ticking.
  12. Mr Punter
    Clay plain tiles can get pricey if you have bonnet and valley tiles so roof design can have quite an impact on cost. £18,700 sounds like a lot of money. Did you get 3 quotes? If not, get more.
  13. Mr Punter
    I think the size and material are what they are after, so a small format blue clay plain tile. Unless the ones the planners are suggesting are much more expensive, it may be simpler just to go with them. What did your builder quote for? Do you already have a roof tile approved?
  14. Mr Punter
    If you are building a new house, do a full plans application. To do it on a Building Notice would be very risky. The Building Notice is just used for small projects, where the consequence of something not being to the Inspector's liking would not be too dire. Get all the details on the Full Plans application and as much of this approved as you can. They sometimes approve subject to conditions but try and resolve as many of these as you can before you start, so that as long as you do what is stated on the approved plans you will be OK.
  15. Mr Punter
    I have known architects try and charge a fee if the plot they designed for is bought by others. If it were me I would tell them to do one, as I don't think they would win in court (or even try).
  16. Mr Punter
    Maybe have the beers on hand for after the beam is in place...
  17. Mr Punter
    I think that sarking is normally 6" x 1" boards with a small gap between for ventilation. It also seems to be sheets of OSB used as an airtight layer over the rafters but I don't know how the ventilation bit works there as I don't think it is very vapour permeable.
  18. Mr Punter
    We are in a 4 storey house, with the main living / kitchen on the top floor. The staircases are fairly steep / narrow with winders. Not a problem and it keeps you fit! We put in a goods lift to get food upstairs / rubbish back down.
  19. Mr Punter
    Did you leave it on the scaffold or on the building? If it only has a metre to go you should be able to move it into place with a couple of helpers.
  20. Mr Punter
    The last picture doesn't look so bad to me, although a proper padstone would be better, but could be a bit fiddly. Maybe ask Building Control what they would suggest? If the upstairs floor is not deflecting, don't worry about the beam size.
  21. Mr Punter
    Have you had a quote for this? Might be cheaper to have natural slate.
  22. Mr Punter
    CARRERA PAINTED Lamproom Grey Classic White quartz 30mm Worktop and upstand Yes, designed and ordered by me Units £2,900 + VAT Worktop £2,900 + VAT
  23. Mr Punter
    +1 but could be fine for the bondage den
  24. Mr Punter
    Some pics of the DIY kitchens on our current development - still some bits of snagging remaining but they seem fine.
  25. Mr Punter
    Fibre cement shiplap may be worth looking at
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