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About sam

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  1. My wiring was done in the 90s in black and red. I was considering re-wiring a switch so I could have two switches controlling the light and I found the following wiring which confused me. There are two sheathed cables coming into the switch. Cable A is twin+earth; cable B is three core+earth as per the attached diagram. Earths (green in diagram) are connected; black and blue are connected; reds are connected and the switch connects red to yellow. The ceiling rose has just a single red, black & earth cable. Is this a normal set up or does anyone have any suggestions as to what's going on? I must have some hidden junction boxes. It's chased into a wall where there's no obvious reason to have the ring going down to the switch and both cables appear to go upwards from the switch. A nearby switch doesn't have any yellow and there isn't space for a junction box in the wall.
  2. sam

    Reina radiators

    I've just installed some Reina Diva towel radiators. I choose them as they had some of the highest heat outputs for their size. Based on first impressions they seem fine.
  3. sam

    Drying of screed

    Many anhydrite screed manufacturers provide information. We have used a Gypsol screed and their post instalation guide can be found at: As soon as the screed was hard enough to walk on I found that much of the laitance could be removed with a stiff brush but I still plan to remove the remainder by sanding before laying tiles. According to the manufacturer's documentation it is fine to force dry with UFH after 7 days. Our installer insists that it is better to do this.
  4. sam

    Floor tiling

    I'm trying to get my brain around this - it's really interesting and very relevant to my project. I'm confused whether I should be worrying about the relative movement across a single tile or across a floor span. My thought was that it would be the floor span - I considered the substrate as one unit which expands at one rate and the tiles and grout together as another unit. This way the 'last tile' will have the accumulative impact of the expansion of all the other tiles and substrate (actually I thought half this as it would expand in both directions). What would be the justification for considering just the expansion over the length of a single tile? Does the grout between tiles take up this movement? I am aware that you can get grouts with differing flexibility in the title but I cannot (yet) find relevant technical information in the data sheets. My initial thought was that I should compare the expansion of my limestone tiles (0.008mm/m/°K) to my Gypsol screed (0.012mm/m/°K) at their maximum temperature difference from when laid (maybe 10° for the tiles and 12° for the screed) over the largest span (7m). This equates to a relative movement of 0.45mm, or 0.22mm assuming it moves equally in both directions.
  5. sam

    Full fill foil faced insulation

    Do you mind just clarifying - did you mean with the GRP coating (rather than foil) is it still possible with your hands and/or with the gun?
  6. sam

    Full fill foil faced insulation

    I'm in the process of doing something very similar. Have you suggestions for how you will insert the plastic UFH staples?
  7. sam

    Full fill foil faced insulation

    Interesting - I'd not heard that before. All our carbon monoxide alarms got moved as the house was so dusty and we removed all the heating devices, but I shall put one back in the bedroom now just in case! We plan to use an anhydrite screed and based on the previous comments will not have any foil.
  8. sam

    Full fill foil faced insulation

    Resurrecting an old thread... I did a search as I'm trying to research vapour barriers and foil under a screed floor. My physics is a bit rusty - are you saying that having foil under a solid floor (i.e. no air gap) won't reduce radiation and hence won't significantly improve thermal performance? If installing non-foil backed insulation boards (specifically EPS) under a screed floor, is a foil vapour barrier advantageous over a plastic vapour barrier?
  9. Thank you for the useful reply. The system was last serviced with Juraperle which is 99.4% calcium carbonate. A friend suggested a more economical option was to purchase bird grid of the appropriate size. I spoke to the company that serviced the system (it was in fact installed earlier than I had thought by a different company) who explained that they would recommend installing a pH neutriliastion on the grounds of pH 6, so there may or may not be a dissolved metals problem. I have a water analysis report but it is after treatment and shows everything within acceptable ranges. They were in favour of the back wash system saying it 'agitated' the contents. Do you mind sharing the detail of the company you buy your UV bulbs from?
  10. That's interesting, thank you. Someone told me that the backwash was required to 'mix' the limestone so you didn't get channels forming and to prevent it to solidify into a block. I've not had it tested for iron or anything other than pH. I guess you need to send this off to a lab to do - does anyone have a recommendation? The spring water is pH 6 and the system only corrects this to 6.5 at the moment. The spring has been used at least since the 1950s but the pump, partial filter, UV filter and neutralisation system were only installed last year, before we purchased the house. It's almost a year old now and hasn't been serviced, other than me physically cleaning the partial filter.
  11. It is -
  12. Thanks for the quick reply. It's a blue pressure vessel filled with limestone with bypass values and an automatic backwash on a timer.
  13. We have slightly acidic spring water (pH 6) which currently passes through a neutralising cylinder. We are replacing our plumbing pretty much in it's entirety and will have a stainless hot water cylinder and can have plastic pipes. We will therefore have very little copper. I already have the neutralising cylinder but it does take up space and need servicing. I'm aware that acidic water can make your hair green, but otherwise I'm wondering if there are good reasons to keep the neutralising cylinder in the system? I like to make things simpler if I can.
  14. sam

    Leveling above concrete

    Many thanks for the suggestions and sorry for the delayed reply. How thick do you think this would have to be? Would you think structural concrete above the insulation is required in this case, or would a liquid screed be sufficient?
  15. I am in the process of removing our solid floors and our suspended floors to fit insulation and underfloor heating. Below our suspended floors the void is bigger than I had expected and below the void there is a concrete slab. I had originally expected to lay new concrete and PIR insulation. I am now considering using the existing concrete base and using EPS; aware that EPS is less insulative than PIR but putting more down to compensate. The issue I have is the original concrete floor is sloping. At one end I have about 400mm to the floor level; 4 meters away its 300mm. I'm looking for suggestions to fill this. Would you just level with more concrete or is there something cleverer I could do?