sam

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  1. As far as I can tell this is acceptable within the RHI rules. Key is to get the EPC first (showing a high heating demand), then improve the insulation, then get the MCS installation sized based on your new lower heat requirements. In this case the RHI is appropriately incentivising you to improve the insulation in your home and install renewable heating. If you get the same MCS company to install the insulation for you then you may get it at the lower VAT rate, but it still may well be cheaper to do it yourself or get another contractor to.
  2. Yet there have been some grid scale subsidy free PV built in the UK and there will likely be many more to come. Onshore wind is marginally cheaper but with planning near impossible PV is currently the cheapest form of generation. Cost effective sites are under £500k/MW to build. The market for building on your own roof top (either residential or industrial) is distorted as 'private wire' avoids the grids distribution charges but this is likely to change soon. Yes - off shore wind is still being subsidised with CfDs. I was recently involved in financing an almost 1 GW project which is now under construction. That's about right: £450k-£500k/MW (or MWh as most are just over 1 hour) for containerised batteries. These are currently being built almost subsidy free given National Grid's Capacity Market is almost negligible for batteries.
  3. Thanks for the useful post @ProDave. I'm trying to work out how to position the current transformers. Am I correct in thinking that your first current transformer (which delivers "house_current") measures the house load 'gross', i.e. if you are consuming 4kw and producing 3kw this would read 4kw, rather than the 1kw you would be drawing from the grid? If this is the case I think I'm going to struggle as my PV production is fed into the consumer unit. Have other people found ways of doing this? I've considered using a Elster a100c meter, as this can measure the current direction, but I would prefer to use current transformers as this feels less invasive. On a separate point, my immersion heater has a dedicated supply back to the consumer unit. Is there any reason not to put the SSR near the consumer unit even though this is some distance from the immersion heater? Obviously I would have to remove the current timer/programmer next to the immersion heater.
  4. EPS is more compressible than PIR so you may want EPS to allow for expansion of the screed.
  5. Thanks again for the useful posts. Where in the system is the official meter used for FIT and Export payments? Is it possible to use this data or is it not in a useful format or sufficiently real time for this? The Ginlong Solis inverter (and many others I believe) has a RS485 interface and a 'COM' interface. A wifi (or ethernet or GPRS) connector can be purchased. Does anyone have experience using this to get production data or again is this not in useful?
  6. Thanks for the useful replies. At this stage I'm wondering if there is anything which is sensible to install at the same time as the panels and inverter. Can you recommend the meter chip? I'll read up on your code but at the moment my actual coding and immersion/heat pump controller side of things can come later!
  7. Thanks @ragg987; what I'm hoping to do is be able to access the data to program other devices, rather than just view it. Do you know if that is possible with the solaredge setup?
  8. I'm expecting to get PV installed shortly and wanted advice on anything sensible to install at the same time to assist with production monitoring. I'd like to be able to monitor the PV production and export in order to maximise my usage. I know that there are commercial systems to control immersion heaters but more likely I'd build something using Arduino (or something similar) like I think @ProDave and @JSHarris have mentioned they have done. At this stage I'm asking if there is anything I should consider installing near the inverter or meter to be able to capture the necessary data. I know I could get a clip on power meter which could easily be retro fitted but I was wondering if some kind of meter was more useful or easier to export the data from in an accessible form. I currently have a digital E7 non-smart meter and expect to have a Solis inverter. I know that Solis sell a wifi or ethernet adapter but I'm not sure if the data from this is accessible.
  9. @PeterW This is MCS - I should just be able to get in before the FIT ends! On an unshaded roof, do you have any idea how much extra output I might get from microinverters rather than the single inverter? Can you explain the pairing up idea; I've heard this before but don't understand why it doesn't have the same negative impact as putting many panels though a single inverter (although obviously less so as only 2 panels)?
  10. I've just been doing calculations on this. I have been quoted an extra £700 for Solar Edge vs Solis. In order to get the same financial return (IRR) I would need more than 15% additional output on average, and to be able to use this extra myself (in addition to higher FIT/export). On this basis I am planning to stick with the cheaper Solis. I'm planning to install 11x 320W REC N-peak mono panels, all on an unshaded WSW roof.
  11. I'm not convinced I saved that much cost using slinkies but so far I am averaging a COP of 5 with a Kensa Evo setup. Don't forget to budget for sand and moving that sand, if you need it. All the manufactures I spoke to said you would get the MCS quoted COP if you followed their installation guidelines.
  12. General advice is not to turn UFH on for 2-4 weeks after laying tiles. I have used Kerakoll BioGel NO LIMITS Eco Friendly Flexible S1 Adhesive (White). The data sheet for this includes details for using it at 35°C and our UFH flow temperature is set at 37°C (in 50mm of screed). I'm getting pressure to get the heating back on.... given these temperatures do you think this is risky?
  13. My wiring was done in the 90s in black and red. I was considering re-wiring a switch so I could have two switches controlling the light and I found the following wiring which confused me. There are two sheathed cables coming into the switch. Cable A is twin+earth; cable B is three core+earth as per the attached diagram. Earths (green in diagram) are connected; black and blue are connected; reds are connected and the switch connects red to yellow. The ceiling rose has just a single red, black & earth cable. Is this a normal set up or does anyone have any suggestions as to what's going on? I must have some hidden junction boxes. It's chased into a wall where there's no obvious reason to have the ring going down to the switch and both cables appear to go upwards from the switch. A nearby switch doesn't have any yellow and there isn't space for a junction box in the wall.
  14. I've just installed some Reina Diva towel radiators. I choose them as they had some of the highest heat outputs for their size. Based on first impressions they seem fine.
  15. Many anhydrite screed manufacturers provide information. We have used a Gypsol screed and their post instalation guide can be found at: http://gypsol.co.uk/media/1497/6-gypsol-post-installation.pdf As soon as the screed was hard enough to walk on I found that much of the laitance could be removed with a stiff brush but I still plan to remove the remainder by sanding before laying tiles. According to the manufacturer's documentation it is fine to force dry with UFH after 7 days. Our installer insists that it is better to do this.