Mr Punter

Don't remove it - fill any gouges, then maybe a light sand, then paint.

If you have window trickle vents, 10mm gap under doors and dMEV fans in bathrooms it should be OK.

I like the design. Windows with sloped or apexed head are tricky for blinds / curtains / shutters (not sure if this applies to you). I am not keen on the Jack and Jill bathroom. You have enough space for two en suites and could even make bed 2 500mm smaller if needed.

He was an idiot in that regard. The new regs just require self-certification using the wording "Water consumption is less than 125 litres/person/day using fittings approach". Stupid reg anyway, with things like bath capacities measured to the overflow. Really the regs should mainly focus on health and safety for occupants, not what shower head they choose.

This should be sealed on the outside with Compriband or mastic.

When you submit the rest of the stuff for the final inspection (air tests, elec and gas certs etc) you also submit a statement confirming that "Water consumption is less than 125 litres/person/day using fittings approach". You no longer need to do the calculator.

If you want a grass roof it will be fairly heavy and the grass can dry and become a fire hazard unless watered. Probably OK for a shed.

The Lacomet stuff? I think someone here has used it. Lead, installed correctly, is fairly inexpensive and very long lasting.

The actual conductor diameter is less than 7mm, which always seems quite small to feed a 100 amp supply, but I guess the DNO have played this game before...

It is more likely 35mm2 cable that being the area of the conductor. Your ducting is fine. The cable diameter is about 15mm including the sheathing.

Really poor when a big firm does not give clear fixing instructions including, size, type, location and spacing of fixings. Get in touch with their technical dept as it is their job. I think it was owned by a different firm when we used it and I think I remember them having a fixing spec.

Go for 15mm.

Try Knauf Soundshield Plus as it is also tougher / harder and holds fixings better. They recommend it for schools etc. Out dryliners used it so I don't suppose they paid over the odds v. normal DB board.

With the balcony, look carefully at floor levels as you will need insulation and this will probably need to be a warm roof construction, so a step up onto the balcony. Also as others have said, look at making the balcony 2.6m deep and give the 900mm to the bedroom. It is not much of a technical challenge. I really liked the roof lights to the balcony in your inspiration house. Any chance if you post more plans you can upload pdfs? It is quite hard to see otherwise.

But well done for soldiering on. Follow what SIG say to the letter. If you are not sure what is specified, bat it back to them.

That is good as the rubber membrane looked fine, just the detailing and drainage. I imagine that just removing the build up as you have will halt the water ingress.

It is looking better with each iteration. I would lose the back door and have this in the living area - maybe bifolds or sliding. Extend the worktop and return a short 900mm deep peninsula so you can still have the breakfast bar. The kitchen units backing onto the internal wall are likely to be tall - fridge / oven / larder type. Perhaps make the dining area slightly bigger.

How far have you taken this down? Is the membrane under the stuff we can see?

Take note @Onoff!

Perhaps you can do an application showing the extent of the existing building plus PD dotted overlaying the replacement dwelling scheme, so it can be seen that the replacement is a similar scale, massing etc.

The upstairs rooms will look mean unless they are 4.0m wide. What is the upstairs corridor for? Family bathroom looks wrong. Can you show adjacent ground level on elevations and sections? Lose the extra furniture in the bedrooms as it is distracting (beds, bedside cabinets and built-in cupboards only).

Siniat Bluclad has standard installation details and BBA cert with Weber renders. I have used it with the Weber but we just used Weber LAC - mesh coat and top coat - sponge finished then masonry paint. No cracks or customer complaints after 8 years.

If you want to keep the brickwork exposed there is not much you can do. If not you could use insulated plasterboard.

Most planning depts are understaffed and underfunded. Round here they charge for pre app opinions. I can really understand your frustration. An outline application will probably take the same time to determine as full. Also, in some instances, they will only entertain a full application.

Four days work? What was the risk? You can have a ground bearing slab with no airflow at all, so what is going to happen with B & B with a slightly restricted flow?