Mr Punter

Can you arrange collection?

You can apply online for variation or removal of a planning condition. It may be worth seeing what the alternatives are to see if you can source something similar from, say Spain and discuss with the conservation officer. Can you check the planning register to see if the condition is applied throughout? Also if your building is very focal or near a listed building or otherwise important area you will be on more sticky ground.

I asked for WiFi recommendations a few months ago and five members recommended Unifi. I put in 2 AC Lites and the whole of my 4 storey house is covered seamlessly. Pretty simple to set up and works very well.

I would ask the stone slip company what board, adhesive and fitting is covered on their BBA certificate (if they have one) because otherwise, if anything goes wrong, they will have a get-out. There are lots of boards on the market, like BluClad, which can be used outside. Building boards are sometimes called Calcium Silicate, Magnesium Oxide, Backer Boards and various others but you really need a spec from the slip system manufacturer.

Are the roof windows top hung? They may do well to increase the fire detection to 1 in each habitable room, corridor and staircase, mains fed and interlinked.

B and K

Hear, hear.

Sometimes it takes the stain better if you leave it for a year or two. It is fine left exposed if it is Western Red Cedar. After two years you will probably just get used to it!

I think you should be fine with the battened cavity, and the system is BBA approved. The render systems that have been more troublesome are those with no cavity, incorrectly applied. As the house is completed there is no need to mention self build and don't offer detail that is not required, so when they ask for what the building is constructed of you can say rendered walls and tiled pitched roof.

I noticed the other day that Screwfix seem to have changed from Flexovit to Norton.

Sounds awkward but I am no expert. The beams are quite sharp so chains would be best but you will need to see how to attach the chains to the telehandler. We have slung beams with chains for crane lifts. You would need to have the forks quite high to account for the chains and you don't want to be driving round with the forks extended and a load on them.

It will mellow / fade fairly quickly. Are you going to do the edges too?

Get the material powder coated to the same colour as the cill. Maybe cut it into 200mm lengths and space at 220mm centres to leave drainage gaps.

I cannot see an issue with this draining onto the patio.

@Hecateh How did the other guy know about where you live and who you had chosen to lay the flooring?

I can't see how the PWA would apply because the water company are not an owner and I assume the land owner has no right to refuse the work being carried out.

If this is excavation within 3 metres of and deeper than the bottom of the foundation of the adjacent building it could apply, but I doubt it as the water company are not an owner. The adjacent owner would need to take out an injunction to stop the work, which would be very expensive.

I have had places sprayed in the past. Lots of time to mask. You can fix sockets and switches and plastic bag them. The finish is perfect but impossible to touch up, so if anything gets marked it is a pain. I am not a fan but some on here are.

Good points by @Tyke2. We recently had a building where a wall had to change direction by 3 degrees, so on elevation the window openings appeared slightly narrower.

OK one valve makes sense. Thanks.

I have got dual fuel towel radiators that are on the central heating radiator circuit and have an electric element with fancy electronic control. I don't really want to use the central heating bit, so for electric, should I close both the valves, or will this potentially cause a problem with hot water expanding?

If you want really want concrete you will probably need to do beam and block or poured concrete as the hollowcore plank firms will not be interested in small footprint. Concrete will be more expensive and require more lifting equipment than timber. By the time you have space for services, finishes and ceiling it will probably be deeper than a timber floor. I would recommend an Easi-Joist type engineered metal webbed floor with 22mm Egger Protect chipboard. Specify that the maximum deflection must not exceed 8mm or 0.002 x span. You will more easily be able to incorporate services, including your MVHR, and ceilings are easy to fit. The floor supplier should be able to produce the design for you.

They seem popular on the Tilers Forum for plank type tiles.

I have a garage with no electrics and I am looking for a recommendation for solar lighting. I am having the roof replaced with twin wall metal. The garage is to be used for tools etc, so I don't need the lights to work for more than, say 30 mins, but I want them to be very bright to properly illuminate the space. PIR would be nice (but not essential) so I don't leave them on by accident.

As long as the floor is clean - no dust - sticking will be fine.