Mr Punter
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Everything posted by Mr Punter
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50mm cavity, difficult to maintain damp bridge free?
Mr Punter replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Brick & Block
No problem at all. Most garages are just single skin and while they can get a bit damp in extreme conditions they are OK. If you plan to use the garage as a workshop you may want to insulate the cavity. -
OK get the ply screwed down, then tile the walls, then grout and polish, then fit shower screen and complete plumbing and wiring, then paint ceiling, then fit LVT, then mastic.
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We have grown Eleagnus (x Ebbingi?) in the past as a screen. Evergreen, grew tall and has fragrant flowers in winter. Quite tough too.
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Any sofa supplier recommendation?
Mr Punter replied to TerryE's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
I suggest that you do not go shopping for a sofa if you are tired and have be traipsing round for hours, as everything you sit on will feel comfortable in relation to the hell that is shopping. You will be tempted into anything so as not to prolong the retail pain. -
You could take this approach...
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What a great looking project - amazingly ambitious - especially for a 1st build! Just the excavation looks like it would have been quite daunting.
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I like Egger Protect 22mm chipboard. The coating is permanent and on both sides so if you have subsequent leaks it should not turn to Weetabix too quickly.
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I can't believe my self build has come to this...
Mr Punter replied to divorcingjack's topic in Floor Tiles & Tiling
We have fitted limestone in some bathrooms. It needs to be sealed regularly and kept clean. Not very practical but it looks good. We now use LVT (luxury vinyl tile) for floors and porcelain for walls. -
Removal of Openreach equipment
Mr Punter replied to vivienz's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Not sure what the issue is. Does the cable offend? If so, do as @joe90 suggests. -
Drainage design — right approach?
Mr Punter replied to Dreadnaught's topic in General Construction Issues
You should have a chamber near the boundary of your property. Make the drains up to that point as shallow as possible as they will be cheaper and safer to lay and easier to access and rod if ever needed (which they probably won't be). Lay the bit from your chamber to the sewer connection as steep as is needed.- 60 replies
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- foul drains
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Drainage design — right approach?
Mr Punter replied to Dreadnaught's topic in General Construction Issues
No, as long as it is over 1:60 there is no maximum. You should, however, provide access / inspection points at the change in gradient.- 60 replies
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- foul drains
- surface water drains
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Drainage design — right approach?
Mr Punter replied to Dreadnaught's topic in General Construction Issues
Depending on the main sewer size you may be able to connect via a saddle connection.- 60 replies
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- foul drains
- surface water drains
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Air bricks exposed internally to a garage space.
Mr Punter replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Foundations
Put air bricks on opposite sides and if possible all sides. They rely on a flow of natural air. If the garage is enclosed there may be an issue with poor air entering under the building. -
Drainage design — right approach?
Mr Punter replied to Dreadnaught's topic in General Construction Issues
Dig it all as shallow as possible with a fall of 1:40 to 1:60 connected to a chamber near the boundary of your property, then you can connect to the sewer at any gradient you like as long as it is greater than 1:60. So you may be at, say 600 invert at your last chamber and drop down from there to the 2.5m on the foul drain, where you may have a radiant like 1:1. I think with surface water you may even be allowed to connect in with an internal backdrop but you would need to check.- 60 replies
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Drainage design — right approach?
Mr Punter replied to Dreadnaught's topic in General Construction Issues
Our EA flood level - on the river bank - is 1:100 years plus 300mm.- 60 replies
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- foul drains
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Drainage design — right approach?
Mr Punter replied to Dreadnaught's topic in General Construction Issues
And the guidance accords with this: “Generally, the aim should be to discharge surface run off as high up the following hierarchy of drainage options as reasonably practicable: 1. into the ground (infiltration); 2. to a surface water body; 3. to a surface water sewer, highway drain, or another drainage system; 4. to a combined sewer.”- 60 replies
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- foul drains
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Making OSB air tight
Mr Punter replied to MikeSharp01's topic in Environmental Materials & Construction Methods
Looking at @vivienz MBC house in it looks like they have the Smartply passive boards plus tape on the inside. -
Permitted Development before house completion?
Mr Punter replied to Visti's topic in Planning Permission
The PD rights can also be removed via an Article 4 direction by the LPA which can cover lots of properties but normally in conservation areas etc.- 20 replies
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- permitted development
- shed
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Drainage design — right approach?
Mr Punter replied to Dreadnaught's topic in General Construction Issues
I am not surprised. How is the land currently drained? Having surface water discharging into combined or, worse, foul sewers, is not considered the way forward re SUDs, flooding, etc.- 60 replies
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Internal windows in a design?
Mr Punter replied to Dreadnaught's topic in New House & Self Build Design
As you just have a pool and a gym you would not need to consider acoustic issues. Although the gym could, in future, be used as a bedroom, it looks unlikely and the regs only take account of the current usage. An example is that you will need a heat detector in a kitchen, but if it were to become a lounge or bedroom you may need a smoke detector. -
Drainage design — right approach?
Mr Punter replied to Dreadnaught's topic in General Construction Issues
Also, you may find it better to just do the sewer connection and a new inspection chamber on your site and do the rest when or after you do the foundations.- 60 replies
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- foul drains
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Drainage design — right approach?
Mr Punter replied to Dreadnaught's topic in General Construction Issues
There is nothing to stop you designing it yourself as long as it complies with building regs. The attenuation tank is more likely to be Building Control or the sewerage undertaker who decides. £1350 sounds steep so def shop around.- 60 replies
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Like most materials (and people), this will weather and dull with age.
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Don't use steel as it will rust
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Just do as suggested earlier
