Mr Punter

My experience with working prior to pre commencement conditions approved is that it depends on the work and the condition, so, for example, if you excavate for foundations without having all the external finishes signed off they will let it go. If you mess up the road when you should have submitted a wheelwashing scheme for approval you will get done. Like @Russell griffiths said, why not just get them signed off so you can work undisturbed?

Ours was less than 100mm insulation - it may have been 50mm. Below ground we stuck an extra 100mm on the outside and we only did ICF for the basement with the rest in timber frame. Here it is with the timber plate. It worked well with this brand of ICF as it fitted into the profiles just like the polystyrene.

Using this approach, is there any issue with sound travelling between the rooms - along the plasterboard?

I have done this with Polarwall. We just fixed coach screws like these https://www.screwfix.com/p/turbocoach-coach-screws-yellow-zinc-plated-10-x-75mm-50-pack/9897g into the back of the timber plate at 400 ctrs so it is locked into the concrete. You could add another timber to the front if you want to hang the joists from the top flange, but joist hangers may work out cheaper.

The roof is OK as will be the skylights if they are correctly installed. Once you have the placed sealed up you will be able to see if you have an issue. You need to make sure all the junctions are completed and that DPCs, DPMs, flashings, copings etc are all correctly detailed and installed.

I think it is to do with relative humidity, where when the outside air is colder than inside the RH will decrease when it is warmed by taking the heat from the exhaust air.

Have a look at https://www.breeam.com/ and https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Embodied_energy_in_construction This is a fairly well covered theme in the industry.

No, being allocated a postal address does not make you liable for Council Tax.

Embodied energy of materials is what this is all about.

A fan heater may be simplest and cheapest. Underfloor may take too long to heat up. Don't concern yourself re: lighting and TV running costs (if they are newish) as the heating will be many times these.

zinc is used as well. Be careful when mixing metals as some can corrode others when in contact or even nearby. I think lead is safe with most.

Do you use this to store large hairy men? A bestseller in nearby Brighton no doubt.

You may do better to send your design to some ICF companies for pricing and they should know enough to highlight what may be tricky / expensive. Also, things like cill and lintel heights can make a difference to how easy to build with some systems.

Maybe have a chat to find out what Building Control and the Warranty provider are looking for. Strip footings are often the most economical. Does Mr Builder do beam and block or concrete ground bearing for the ground floors?

If they can make it comply with FEE by making improvements elsewhere there is nothing fraudulent in having no test and air leakage the default 15.

Actually just looked back at what we spec and it is the lesser of 8mm or span x 0.002, so a fair bit stiffer.

I think the danger would be if you have submitted building regs drawings with insulation and airtightness level of X and claim for RHI that it is Y, there will be an easily provable case of fraud. If you use the default value for airtighness instead of having a test you will save on the cost of this and it will be used for the EPC. At 15m³ / (h.m²) it is three times worse than you would normally achieve and fifteen times worse than the best.

There is means of escape from each upstairs room. I would have heat detector in the kitchen and smoke detector in each bedroom, all mains and interlinked.

Because the lounge and kitchen are open plan it looks OK.

Ask your joist designer for a maximum deflection of 12mm or 0.003 x span (whichever is least). That will resolve any bounce issues. Actually just looked back at what we spec and it is the lesser of 8mm or span x 0.002, so a fair bit stiffer. Timber plate attached to the wall is fine for 1.) and 3.) It is normally cheaper to top hang than use hangers. You will probably need blocking in between to stop twisting. With 2.) you may be able to replace the steel with a glulam or posi which could make running services simpler. Joist hangers are rated according to the loads and the floor designer should specify. Some are universal so can be faced fixed or wrapped over.

I think this depends on the vehicle. The turning circle should be enough to work it out. The swept path is probably more useful for trucks.

BS 5534 is def what you want for roofing. The ones in the photo are not. They allow a depth tolerance of +3mm - 0mm, so between 25mm and 28mm, which those in the picture do not seem to be. Also, as @JSHarris noted, the knots would rule them out.

"All battens must be stamped with information identifying the origin, size, supplier and conformance to BS 5534"

Also should be stamped BS####. Get John Brash or similar so you know they have been correctly treated and graded.

And you could look at doing a new style for your own lovely locks!