Temp

If we are talking GU10s then I look for bulbs with a wide beam angle and producing 350 Lumens or more. Recently I've actually had reasonable results with Dial brand which I think are BnQ (or is it Homebase?) and quite cheap. Check you have dimmers suitable for LED. Some makes have a phosphor that glows for awhile after being turned off. If the glow persists for more than say an hour you may need to add a capacitor/snubber to some of the fitting as it's due to coupling between live and switched live.

+1 for the UFH. Might need one for the DHW if the boiler is small. Not all our floors are pipe in screed. Do check the minimum return temperature spec for your oil boiler. Grant say.. "The boiler should not be allowed to operate with return temperatures of less than 40° C when the system is up to operating temperature." The UFH return temperature could be lower so you would need a mixer to warm up the return a bit.

Yes there is a flow switch. The one fitted has a very low flow detection point but they are hard to get hold of. I took the precaution of getting a spare awhile back because others available online all seem to have a higher detection point.

I have a Grant oil boiler feeding a vented 300L thermal store. 3300sqf approx. house built 11-12 years ago. Could be better insulated. The store feeds UFH on both floors, DHW and towel rads. Thermal store was from.. http://www.heatweb.com/products/cylinders/heatbank/heatbank.htm My store, boiler, UFH and towel rails share a common water system which is vented so no PRV anywhere. I dose it with Fernox F1. For DHW it has an external heat exchanger on the side of the store. This feeds a pretty high flow rate shower (Large rain type rose and body jets etc) but copes well. Down side of this set up is the extra pump needed to circulate water from the store to the heat exchanger. That pump and the exchanger itself leak quite a lot of heat into the store room it's in. Great for drying clothes in there. Our boiler is large - 40kW - probably could have used a smaller boiler and a larger store but the system works ok. Manages to keep family of 4 in hot showers one after the other. The boiler-store loop has a thermally controlled bypass on it because Grant recommend a minimum return temperature to stop corrosion. This only kicks in when the store is heated from cold (eg after a holiday or long weekend away in summer). Oil boilers don't modulate and the store does stop it short cycling. However was quite critical to get set up. I ended up fitting smaller jets in the boiler which reduced the power and made it easier. They say the smaller jets also improve efficiency a fraction as well. If doing this again I'd go for a bigger store and smaller boiler. Edit: The towel rads are on their own output from the store (normally used for conventional rads). It has a pump and a pipe stat on the return. That way pump runs until the return pipe is hot then stays off until pipe (and rads) have cooled a bit. Then pump runs again. Idea was to avoid having the pump running all the time stirring the store.

Google suggests its something to do with a "self signed certificate" and perhaps specific to Google Chrome? https://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2016/06/use-existing-ssl-certificate-linux-unifi-controller/ These also seems to point to the certificate being an issue.. https://community.ubnt.com/t5/UniFi-Wireless/Not-Private-Connection-warning-when-logging-into-Unifi/td-p/2087988 https://www.naschenweng.info/2017/01/06/unifi-cloud-key-ssl-configuration-rapidssl/

One trick is to cut the wires long, arrange them as per above then cut to length. If you cut to length and then arrange them some will be wrong length. Its very important they all go right to the bottom of the connector. You normally have to hold/push the cable in while you crimp or they can creep out. I believe there are also two types of connector, one for solid core and one for stranded wire. Important you have the right ones.

If I was building again I would include a level access even if it wasn't required by the regs. I wouldnt have an obvious ramp either.

I believe the expansion vessel can go anywhere on the sealed loop that it's protecting. So could even be on a different floor. Some may have to be in the right orientation?

If it's galvanised it can be tricky to paint. Bit like trying to paint a wax candle with water colours. I think I would clad it, possibly asymmetrically so it looks like it's a bit further from the wall?

Google found.. https://www.french-property.com/news/money_france/heating_costs_2017/

If they have had a survey done ask to see it as there might be something in it that has got them concerned. The main worry seems to be damp bridging the cavity due to unsuitable insulation in houses with bad pointing or similar.

I persuaded my builder to use B&B on both floors. He'd never done a first floor but said he liked it as it went down quick and no issues with weather. Made tiling our bathroom easy.

Not for whole frames but there are several places online (inc ebay) you can use to compare pricing for standard size beams. I'd always go visit the place and pick out what you want though. Says £29/cubic foot here.. https://www.somersettimber.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Green-Oak-Price-List.pdf £28/cfm here from a reclamation yard.. http://www.norfolkreclaim.co.uk/green-oak-beams-28-per-cubic-foot-vat/ Ebay seems to be nearer £35/cubic foot for a 200x200x3m beam I looked at List prices elsewhere £50-60 but haggle.

If it was a planning condition then you can't legally build the house without it so I would say yes claim it. I would mention that it was required by planning condition on the spreadsheet.

BnQ.. 3m X 665mm oak effect.. https://www.diy.com/departments/38mm-oak-woodmix-wood-effect-round-edge-laminate-breakfast-bar-l-3m-d-665mm/100483_BQ.prd They also have a black granite.

I heard that program. It mentioned a study done by the BRE that examined 2000 houses with EWI and said they couldn't find one to use as an example of good practice!

Article in todays Telegraph raises a billing issue.. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2018/11/09/households-solar-panels-risk-overcharged-smart-meters/

Can be cheaper if you already have a site survey.

200kg create a force of about 2000N. I looked up the compressive strength of one make of PIR insulation and they claim 140kpa which is 140,000 Newton's per square meter. So you would need to spread the load over at least... 2000/240,000 = 0.014 sqm or 140 square cm. Which isn't that much. So I think something rigid over PIR would work. I supect the devil will be in the detail.

I haven't read the BRE document mentioned above but there seems to be layer on layer of BS and ISO standards that cover this whole area. Googling eventually led me to ISO 13370 which in turn says that ISO 10211 has a "numerical method" for calculating the heat loss through the perimeter, and that ISO 14683 has a method using "tables" for doing the same (I think). I'm afraid I lost the will to live when I got that far.

We have stone tiles on our ground floor kitchen and living room. Both slabs shrank towards their respective centres (very slightly) causing a crack where they meet at a doorway. This crack propagated through the stone. The crack was curved slightly more in one room than the other. This happened despite us having fibres in screed (recommended by builder) and him covering the screed with plastic to control the setting process and waiting more than the recommended drying time (1 day per mm). So yes. If you plan to screed and tile through door ways I would form a deliberate crack (expansion joint). It might be possible to tile over this gap once everything has settled but I would use a threshold strip/tile that can be replaced in case there is any movement later. It might be different if you are screeding before building internal stud walls on top.

I think the NHBC also have a guide called something like Building near Trees.

If you've only just reached breaking point you're doing pretty well. We almost cracked during the planning process! There was a point when I probably would have punched the planning officer had he been anywhere near me but we eventually got to stick it to them. Water was also a low point for us. We had to divert a main and the water co insisted we needed an Archaeological Watching Brief despite nothing in the planning conditions. At least twice the Archaeologist drove 30 miles to get to us only for the water co team not to turn up. Once it was done they told us they had to put chemicals in the new bit of pipe and wait 4 weeks before coming back and testing it for bugs. They did eventually come back but it was a week or so too late so they had to repeat the entire process over again.

Is that a Yale No. 1 Rim lock? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yale-Double-security-automatic-latchbolt/dp/B0019N7QH2 No2 is similar with different dimensions.

"Nice thing about standards is there are so many to choose from" (With apologies to whoever said that first).