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Found 12 results

  1. Following the Govs decision to give more time to introduce net zero. I kind of had it in my head we were to be stuck with ASHP with underfloor heating, although the installation would be hideously expensive and the usage not very much more cost effective than other heating types. It seems now we may not be stuck with one option given the extension and a longer time scale to make the changes. We are quickly sliding into our pension years and im now confused as to which system (no gas available) we should employ. Is there anywhere truthful where you can compare how economic all systems are. Ive googled and thats hopeless, one says ASHP another said Electric and ive even read that oil is!!! If I ask a plumber, of course they say the systems they supply are the best. Has anyone found any honesty?
  2. Hi everyone, I am looking at buy thing kit to install in my open plan downstairs area. https://underfloorheating1.co.uk/product/premium-xps-lowprofile-kit-50m2 I noticed in the install guide that the XPS panels need to be bonded to the subfloor with a flooring adhesive. I have seen other brands selling similar insulation panels that say this is not required when using using Laminate or Vinyl interlocking flooring on top. What are your thoughts on this, could I get away with out using a glue? Many thanks
  3. OK, so we have recently moved into a house which has underfloor heating installed throughout and generally it works really well. The system is fed from the hot water boiler. There are two manifolds, one for upstairs and one for downstairs. Both manifolds have pump which drives the water into the manifold. Upstairs, we have no problems with. Downstairs has three zones, Kitchen, Living Room and Utility/Bathroom. The Manifold is shown in the Manifold_PreStart.jpg file which is how it looks when no heating is on. Heating comes on at 6pm and at that point, the pump starts, shown by the red light in the Manifold_PostStart.jpg image. A few minutes after starting, we get a thumping noise seemingly from the manifold but it is difficult to exactly pin down. I have a video of it which is on YouTube here: - noise starts about 55s into the video. The thumping lasts a few seconds, probably less than 10 and is kinda juddery in nature, its sort of a duh-duh-dumm, duh-dumm. The past few days I have been experimenting with different zones demanding heat via thermostats and when a single room (e.g. the kitchen) is the only one demanding heat from the system, then there is no juddering or thumping. Only when multiple rooms are demanding heat, does the noise occur. For example, today, we had the kitchen and the utility requesting heat and the thumping happened. I don't know much about the system as I didn't install it and there are no manuals etc, but it looks to be mostly Emmeti products. Another thing with this downstairs manifold is that the top "Robot" dial is warped a bit. This dial seemingly measures temperature of the water going into the system. See Warped.jpg. Any idea why this could look like this? Heating is currently on at pressure in the system seems to be about 1.7bar Any ideas what could be going on in this system? The floors get warm just fine by the way. Thanks
  4. Hi all, We are getting closer to having our UFH pipes laid on the ground floor (in 50 mm liquid screed). My design is as shown in the attached image (150mm centres) , however have been told that its not the best way of having it and a spiral design would be better and give more even heating and less chance of any cracks. Is that right or is my design perfectly adequate? All the runs are less than 80m long, I didn't want to go more than 150mm on the centres as I wanted to improve heat up times on the system and the plan was to run the UFH at as low temperature as possible so that the boiler is condensation mode all the time while the heating is on (If anyone has any further information on system design in that respect it would be much appreciated). Thanks
  5. hello, I have an underfloor heating system installed in my flat, it looks to be UHF manifold, the solution is from warmafloor with thermostats CC-T-764WHI and screen control 4'3''' touchscreen. However the control system is not manageable via an app/website and I would like to upgrade it to be operable with distance , replacing probably the thermostats and/or the control+screen system. However i have no idea where to start from, I have tried to find documentation on their website but there is nothing about how to upgrade (and the company isn't very responsive to messages), i found even the way to operate quite complex currenlty. I checked online how to replace thermostats which looks doable however the alternatives don't really support the same functions as the one installed so I am not sure what would happened if I proceed like that (for ex current system has a mode 'Schedule', "SetBack' etc.) Is there any resource on internet that somebody could point out, or somebody who could advise how to start on this system , do I need a professional to take care or is it possible to self change ? many thanks
  6. Doing an extension and have laid a concrete slab which is due to have insulation and wet underfloor heading and then screed installed. I want to build the stud walls before the UFH is put in, but worry about cold bridging damp up the studs. Could do with advice on how to fit the sole plates either 1) screwing it into the concrete (could wrap it in visqueen) 2) laying a row of concrete blocks on dpm just below final screed level and then screwing the sole plate into them. Any practical advice would be welcome about the way to go...
  7. Hello - just moved into new house and struggling to make sense of an underfloor heating system. Excuse the really basic questions. We've tinkered with the controllers (HeatMiser Slimline RF) and we think we should have heating on. The displays are active and showing the room temperatures and the little flame icon is appearing. But... the floor remains chilly. There are three zones - living area, kitchen, and a utility room. The plumbing set up is in the below photo, with my rather clueless questions / observations added. Could somebody advise me on what I should be looking for / changing before I call in an expert? https://photos.app.goo.gl/LLV8GRAFUkN3A1379 Many thanks Richard
  8. Hello, I'm new to the forum, will soon have a house in need of insulation... Will post my questions in the relevant forum!
  9. Hi all, I have been offline for a month or so ...struggling to get the exterior of the house complete ... almost there ...will the weather catch up with me for 2018 ....sadly i think it might (sigh) But anyway we have been cracking along with the internal ....boarding upstairs is done and the electrics and plumbing are done on first fix ... I DPM-ed, vapoured and insulated the Beam and block and then finished with a slip sheets and last week the Plumbers installed the nu-heat UFH system and tested it ...all good so far! the screeders are coming wednesday and they are laying a grit sand and cement screed I have 16 tonnes of sharp and 80 bags of the grey stuff standing by !! But it has got me thinking about tiles ! ..well i KNOW the wife is looking at basically the ENTIRE downstairs tiled in large 300x400mm tiles that are 9mm thick ... Now ...I have had various advice ....stuff like use special grout use special adhesive use a separation or decoupling membrane dont tile for 2 months as it needs to dry as rooms are different zones it will CRACK at door openings and you need "gaps" Is there any truth to any of this ....and what can you advise PS Floor is Beam and Block with 1200 micron DPM, 500DPM Barrier/Slip, 90mm Kinspan TF Insulation with 60mm external and 25mm internal upstands and screed is set to be at 70/75mm PPSThose are temporary stairs (in case you are puzzled)..that is actually a solid wall the REAL stairs will run in from the hall
  10. .....I thought to myself, as I instructed my man to cut the excess tail off a coil of Wunda UFH pipe. He cut some more, the noise got much worse. What’s going on ?!? We hadn’t hooked it up yet so a leak was impossible.......and then I twigged. The good folk at Wunda now sell the coils of UFH pipe pressurised with compressed air, and when I say pressurised, I mean pressurised. If you cut straight through you’d better be holding both pieces as it’s like stabbing a car tire ( probably ). They must have it close to 6 or more bar guessing by just how much air came out of a 100m coil. I then noticed the pipe ends. They’ve basically got plastic plugs glued / crimped into each end to keep the pressure up and keep any crud out, and I assume this pre-pressurising benefits in a couple of ways. Wunda know the pipe is sound at dispatch, you know it’s sound when you get it, and if dopy gits with long screws or multi tools inadvertently damage the pipe after installation / floors down etc there will be an undeniable “whoosh” of compressed air to let them know. Can’t help thinking that would also be of benefit during Ufh at the slab stage too as the pipe is likely to be a bit less susceptible to compression perhaps. Folly, or first class. ?
  11. Has anyone any experience of XPS Plus? I was in contact with Polarwall to get delivery costings and the chap mentioned a new option, XPS Pus. It's got a Lambda of 0.027 and is only a few quid more per cubic metre (£144 vs £120). Guessing it's this kinda stuff? https://www.jackon-insulation.com/en/jackodur/products/jackodur-thermal-insulation/jackodur-plus-300-gefiniert-gl/
  12. So apart from the long running saga getting the Northern electric network to understand their own reson d'etre, I've started to do the utility and downstairs bathroom, so as to give us facilities as soon as possible. Coincidentally the two houses to the North of us have been bought and are being renovated and the guy doing the building work called in to see me and very kindly told me that there has been a 14% or so rise in insulation costs and another forecast for October according to his BM. He realized I'd be buying quite a bit so had popped in to warn me - which was nice of him. So I checked online for the best price I could find and rang my local Jewsons branch with my account number and asked what their price was - it was about £6 more per sheet - so I told them the price I could get it at and they said they'd match it - so since that meant quicker delivery I just ordered 20 sheets (it was celotex I was after but they only have a different brand so I thought I'd only order a limited amount until I saw the quality). It seems fine, though being 100mm it has made me realize that I need to think a bit more about the floor build up as it still leaves me about 150mm + to the door level (disconcertingly, on the ground floor I find the beam-&-block level to door opening levels to be different at different entrances!) , though that does mean I can squeeze in another 100mm of insulation - a pity that for some reason it shot up in price recently. So my plan is to buy seconds unfaced insulation and put that on the bottom, and the foil faced on the top. I had planned to buy it all from a seconds supplier, but found that I can now get better prices for new in the foil faced versions than their seconds are priced at! After getting a few quotes, and reading peoples comments I chose Wunda to supply our UFH kit. I began pricing it all by buying it individually via eBay and so on, but found Wunda to be very competitive, so went with the easy option and got it all in one go in the end. We bit the bullet and after months debating have gone for only having UFH on the first floor in the bathroom, though obviously the whole of the ground floor will have it. Although I know the calculations say we should not need it, I am tempted to fit "just in case" background electric panel heaters in the bedrooms. My daughter bringing her horse to visit!
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