Temp

Just for info I went to Thingiverse and typed in "Dewalt"... https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=dewalt&dwh=935c50e4a1c6da8 ...up came some battery adaptors other people have designed. This one... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1248463 ..is for a "Dewalt Lithium 20VMax to RYOBI One+ 18 volt Adapter" and is similar to both the blue and orange parts on your photo. I loaded it into Cura and it estimated something like 8.5 hours of print time.

Material cost is one thing, labour another... If you know the weight of the part then material cost is easy to estimate. The slicer software Cura told me the boat/Benchy weighs 14 grams and used about 4.8m of filament. A 1Kg reel of 1.75mm diameter PLA or ABS filament is around £16-£18 from Amazon and is roughly 330m long. So the material cost was about £18*14/1000=25p or £18*4.8/330 = 25p. So even something 10 or 20 times the weight wouldn't be expensive in material. As for labour.. Cura predicted it would take about 2.5 hours to print Benchy and it actually took just over 3 hours. So if you had to pay someone to supervise the machine it would dominate the cost. It's why I don't fancy offering to print 50 clips for Peter, it could be 150 hours of time on my machine. I imagine the online places also get sent a lot of designs that don't print very well because they haven't been designed to be 3D printed. For example while you can print in mid air (overhang) there are limits or it sags. Typically you might have to add printed supports but again the slicer software can add these and you have to cut them off afterwards. The cost and times above could be higher/longer if you wanted to print 100% solid objects. Most people print hollow parts with a honeycomb inside. The slicer program does all that for you as well. You specify how thick you want the walls and what percentage of infill you want and it does the rest. I printed the boat above with 1.6mm walls and a 20% infill and it feels quite strong but I guess something like a part for a cordless tool might need a higher infill %.

I don't plan to go into business :-) Peter said he's done the.stl so it should be just a matter of loading into Cura and turning on supports. Perhaps adding a brim to make it stick to the bed.... He said optimistically.

Have you sent it off yet? I can't offer to print 50 as it would probably take me a long time on my machine but could have a go at printing one or two in black PLA if you want to see what it looks like before getting lots done.

Close up results of first print. For scale its about 2" long. Pretty pleased with how it turned out. Surprised how much force it took to break off the chimney given that its got a hole down the middle.

Its alive! Just. Having survived being powered up with a reverse polarity PSU (my fault) its printing it's first Benchy. Whole printer will need bolting down to something rigid because if the floor isn't dead flat the gap between head and bed isn't consistent. Should be able to sort that.

Perhaps also where they are actually made. A lot of bricks with English sounding names are made in Belgium.

It's also worth looking at the frost rating and the efflorescence rating.

Discuss with your BCO as he may have a view. These multi layer products have changed over time.

If time wasn't a factor you could probably apply for a certificate of lawfulness to confirm the proposed work doesn't constitute commencement. Wind farms occasionally do something similar if they aren't going to be built for a few years. They build an access and apply for a cert to confirm work has commenced rather than hasn't commenced. Then they don't need to worry about the 5 year limit on their PP.

I think I would want to make a list of what you propose and see if they will OK it in writing.

I think doing anything on site is risky until the CIL paperwork is sorted. I would crack on and get the forms and conditions sorted. Meanwhile inspect the hedge regularly. Does it need pruning? Perhaps there are weeds in it that need treating. Be careful not to accidentally kill the hedge or the birds won't have anywhere to nest.

We're on oil and have someone home in the daytime. Most of our stats are on 4 time periods. Something like.. 5am-8am 20C 8am-4pm 18c (some rooms 16C which is effectively off unless it's very cold weather) 4pm to 10pm 21C (Bedrooms 18-20C depending on occupant) 10pm -5am 16C (effectively off unless it's very cold weather). Bathrooms are on their own stat to warm the floors at certain times of the day depending on season. Some rooms have slightly different timings at weekends - for example kids bedroom.

You can have multiple loops on one zone. For example our master bed and ensuite have a loop each but are currently controls by the same stat so are in the same zone. We could separate them into two zones by adding another stat. We also needed two loops for our living room, again both controlled by one stat. So first work out how many loops you need. That determines how many ports you need on the manifold. Then decide how many stats/zones you want and which loop(s) each stat will control. We have two manifolds one up, one downstairs. We went for programmable stats and have set up different rooms to have different temperatures at different times. The UFH in the bathroom is mainly to warm the tiled floor so that comes on first thing. We used a Heatmiser stat that has a remote sensor. Stat is outside the bathroom.

It has two outputs on the control board but only a limit switch one side. I've not seen anyone mention this issue as a problem but perhaps I'll think about a solution when I upgrade to a metal frame. Might be as simple as adding a toothed belt to link the two drive rods across the top of the rig. Perhaps a bit more complicated as the rods don't even have bearings that end. I can see me printing some simple L section brackets to hold some ball races. Edit: Might be harder than I thought because the belt would need joining in a way that would allow it to go around the pulleys. Unless I can find a loop roughly the right length and take up an excess in a tensioner.

Spent another evening assembling my printer. Getting there slowly. Got all the mechanical bits assembled but I can see somethings will need tweaking. It has two threaded rods one either side to raise and lower the head vertically (z-axis). Instead of linking these two rods together with a toothed belt each one has its own stepper motor. This means if you accidentally turn one side manually the Y-axis rails are no longer parallel with the print bed. I can't help feel this is all going to need adjusting before every print to ensure everything tracks parallel.

One of the impressive things in 3D printing is "print in place" which involves printing moving parts ready assembled. One of the most impressive I've seen is this "iris box". Skip ahead to about 2:15 if you get bored watch it being printed.

There are several companies making clones of the A8. There was one on eBay for around £90 that has a wood frame... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CTC-A8-MK8-Extruder-Assembly-LCD-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-Reprap-220-220-240mm-Print/273531933538?hash=item3fafc61362:g:aUEAAOSwyKhbZWD4&redirect=mobile I went for this Anet version which has an acrylic frame at £104.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anet-A8-Assembly-Acrylic-Frame-LCD-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-Reprap-220-220-240mm-Print/113022998680?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&redirect=mobile but have added another £25 in upgrades. The MOSFET upgrade is virtually mandatory. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Upgrade-Bearing-instead-Printer-RJ4JP-01-08/dp/B079M88FF8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1548512185&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=drylin+bearings&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/TopDirect-Module-Expansion-Current-Printer/dp/B078HGFDT6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1548512217&sr=8-2&keywords=A8+mosfet And a reel of filament at £18. So total to get up and going about £150ish. If it works ok I plan to upgrade the frame making it an AM8 (so called "All Metal 8"). There are metal kits for this from about £60-£70 on eBay but you also have to print a lot of plastic bits on your A8 as well. Someone called Pheneeny posted the design for this on Thingiverse awhile back and others have improved the design... https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Am8&dwh=305c4c6d5c1bb08 So to I think by the time it's got a metal frame it will be nearer £225-250. You can (currently) buy a Creality Ender 3 kit which I think has a metal frame for £150 from gearbest so the route I'm taking isn't the cheapest.

Will try and post updates. The A8 is a real experimenters project. It has problems which I'm sure you wouldn't have difficulty recognising and solving but it wouldn't be something I would give to say a 14 year old as a present unless they understand electronics. The mains power supply for example just has a small plastic flap covering the 220v screw terminals and no mains switch. The FETs on the control board are also prone to overheating so many people fit add-on MOSFET boards. I'm doing that from the outset. Again I know you could do this but it gives you an idea of the overall quality. I'm also replacing the supplied linear bearings with Drylin bearings. Reviews say that if you put in the effort the A8 gives good results for the money. To be honest I think printers like the Creality Ender 3 are probably better if you want something that needs less fettling. The main difference between the two is that the Ender 3 already has a metal frame. The Extruder is also a remote/Bowden tube type where as the A8 has the Extruder mounted on the head (eg a direct type). Both have advantages and disadvantages. The Bowden tube type has less precise control over how the filament is extruded/retracted but the head is lighter so can be moved faster...or so they say. Think it will be at least a week before mine is ready for a test print.

Have taken the plunge and ordered an Anet A8 kit. Arrived yesterday. It's a heck of a meccano job and I've already managed to break a £2 part. The linear bearings felt like they were full of sand. Clean out with WD40 and re oiling improved them a bit but will replace with Drylin bearings from Amazon. Can see this is going to be a bit of a project.

According to my news feed he was due to be paid on Friday but the bank transfer was delayed to Monday. His workmates said if he'd checked his account on Monday he would have seen he had been paid!

I think the most frequently reason access is needed is when you change the layout of the bathroom and need to change or add a connection to the stack.

Perhaps someone should argue that it "allows the construction of the building to take place" as per 3.3.4 which covers demolition. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction

As far as I can see both stacks are used as vertical drains not just vent pipes. For example the bath in the family bathroom connects to the left hand stack. The two WC and other bath connect to the right hand stack. You might be able to move the left hand stack indoors by running it vertically in the wardrobe of bedroom 4 (bottom right corner) upstairs and boxing in the utility room downstairs. However I think this one would need to be open vented, so up through the roof. Might be possible to put the right hand stack in the top right corner of the utility room between door and wall between utility room and kitchen? Think this one can have an AAV. Edit: Actually this might be in a bit of an odd place in the family bathroom?

Google found this place in Sussex.. https://www.jbarch.co.uk/3d-printing