Temp

Google found.. https://www.north-herts.gov.uk/home/planning/planning-advice-and-guidance/neighbour-consultation-scheme-house-extensions The extension must be completed by 30 May 2019.

Got a feeling the existing scheme runs out 30th May 2019?

If you have a trade that doesn't want to zero or reduce rate materials to you (as they should), then then your only option is to buy the materials yourself paying 20% and reclaim it.

If it's overflowing then new water must be getting in somehow. Check the ballcock valve in the header tank first but if not that then it could possibly be a leak in the hot water tank (eg in the coil).

Is the header tank full of hot water? Wondering if the vent layout is a bit odd and sludge/blockage is causing pumping over into the header tank?.

Who me? Right now I've not designed anything and printed it. I've just printed other people's designs. I've used Sketchup in the past but intend to get Fusion360 as that's what a lot on Thingiverse seem to use and it's free. So far I've been printing out parts to upgrade my A8 to an metal framed AM8. I've printed about 15 parts taking 28 hours of print time and 140 meters of filament. Still some quite big parts to do. The sequence for me will be: 1) Design objects in Fusion360 and export in an .stl file 2) Import the .stl into Cura and generate a .gcode file. 3) Send .gcode to the printer. 4) Print it. Cura is the slicer recommended by ANet. It turns an .stl files into the gcode file the printer needs. The printer prints the object by building up layers of plastic. Each layer is drawn using a small nozzle to extrude plastic onto the bed or layer below. Cura works out the path the nozzle has to take in 3D to print the object. Cura starts by allowing you to drag and drop one or more objects/.stl files onto a grid representing the printer bed. Then you can rotate, move or scale them. Typically I've had to rotate some parts to get the grain/layers in the right plane as this is the weakest plane in the finished part. Most parts are printed "hollow" to save time and plastic. In Cura you can specify the thickness of the outer shell and fill the inside with a grid that improves strength and stops (for example) the top surface sagging. When it's configured I usually check I haven't accidentally lifted a part off the bed (Z displacement must be zero) and click "Prepare". In a few seconds it generates the gcode file and tells you how long it will take to print. If that's too long you can either remove parts from the bed or tweek the settings to try and improve it. After that it's just a matter of getting the gcode file into the printer and setting it going.

Apparently you can import simple .stl files into Fusion360 or AutoCAd but I've not tried. I imagine it would be difficult to do anything more than simple changes on it. https://toglefritz.com/convert-a-simple-stl-into-a-body-in-fusion-360/ This lists some other programs it says can "easily" turn the surfaces back into solids... https://all3dp.com/1/7-free-stl-editors-edit-repair-stl-files/ No idea how good the results are. Better to persuade the author of the .stl to give you their source.

Stumbled across this site today. They have a range of different coving sections for led lighting. Can light either the ceiling or the wall. Pretty good range it seems. https://www.14th.eu I've no connection with the company and not used them myself.

Just build it using left over bricks ?

Before buying hardware I'd look to see if it's compatible with one of the sites like the one below, its a global collaboration to collect weather data... https://www.wunderground.com/weatherstation/hardwareandsoftware.asp https://projects.raspberrypi.org/en/projects/uploading-weather-data-to-weather-underground The UK Met office also has the ability to take your data. I've not looked at how well any of these serve the data back to you.

If it needs to be programmable/customisable/bespoke then perhaps a PLC? Google says there are cheap ones available... https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/news/low-cost-programmable-logic-controllers-for-the-frugal-engineer/ https://www.t-uk.co.uk/products/plcs-with-integrated-hmis/micro-plcs/ Never used one but thing they use Ladder Logic.. https://www.plcacademy.com/ladder-logic-tutorial/

In a rush but see the Paving Expert web site... http://www.pavingexpert.com/featur04.htm I don't think all gravel boards are strong enough to be used as a retaining wall.

Have done three small prints so far. Main issue/difficult I'm finding with the A8 is levelling the bed.... To get the first few layers to stick to the bed the nozzle has to skim over the bed the thickness of a sheet of paper above it. So the bed has to be level to that accuracy. However the printer mechanics make this quite difficult to set up. It's adjusted using M3 bolts and wing nuts but the whole thing isn't very rigid, move the printer and it twists enough to make the gap too big or two small requiring readjustment. I've got a bit of 25mm MDF on the way to bolt it to. I've seen references to auto levelling add-ons but not investigated that yet.

Some of that may well be due to my inexperience. Tweaks to the slicer settings can make quite a difference. You can also control the head speed but I don't yet know how far I can push my cheapo machine.

Just for info I went to Thingiverse and typed in "Dewalt"... https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=dewalt&dwh=935c50e4a1c6da8 ...up came some battery adaptors other people have designed. This one... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1248463 ..is for a "Dewalt Lithium 20VMax to RYOBI One+ 18 volt Adapter" and is similar to both the blue and orange parts on your photo. I loaded it into Cura and it estimated something like 8.5 hours of print time.

Material cost is one thing, labour another... If you know the weight of the part then material cost is easy to estimate. The slicer software Cura told me the boat/Benchy weighs 14 grams and used about 4.8m of filament. A 1Kg reel of 1.75mm diameter PLA or ABS filament is around £16-£18 from Amazon and is roughly 330m long. So the material cost was about £18*14/1000=25p or £18*4.8/330 = 25p. So even something 10 or 20 times the weight wouldn't be expensive in material. As for labour.. Cura predicted it would take about 2.5 hours to print Benchy and it actually took just over 3 hours. So if you had to pay someone to supervise the machine it would dominate the cost. It's why I don't fancy offering to print 50 clips for Peter, it could be 150 hours of time on my machine. I imagine the online places also get sent a lot of designs that don't print very well because they haven't been designed to be 3D printed. For example while you can print in mid air (overhang) there are limits or it sags. Typically you might have to add printed supports but again the slicer software can add these and you have to cut them off afterwards. The cost and times above could be higher/longer if you wanted to print 100% solid objects. Most people print hollow parts with a honeycomb inside. The slicer program does all that for you as well. You specify how thick you want the walls and what percentage of infill you want and it does the rest. I printed the boat above with 1.6mm walls and a 20% infill and it feels quite strong but I guess something like a part for a cordless tool might need a higher infill %.

I don't plan to go into business :-) Peter said he's done the.stl so it should be just a matter of loading into Cura and turning on supports. Perhaps adding a brim to make it stick to the bed.... He said optimistically.

Have you sent it off yet? I can't offer to print 50 as it would probably take me a long time on my machine but could have a go at printing one or two in black PLA if you want to see what it looks like before getting lots done.

Close up results of first print. For scale its about 2" long. Pretty pleased with how it turned out. Surprised how much force it took to break off the chimney given that its got a hole down the middle.

Its alive! Just. Having survived being powered up with a reverse polarity PSU (my fault) its printing it's first Benchy. Whole printer will need bolting down to something rigid because if the floor isn't dead flat the gap between head and bed isn't consistent. Should be able to sort that.

Perhaps also where they are actually made. A lot of bricks with English sounding names are made in Belgium.

It's also worth looking at the frost rating and the efflorescence rating.

Discuss with your BCO as he may have a view. These multi layer products have changed over time.

If time wasn't a factor you could probably apply for a certificate of lawfulness to confirm the proposed work doesn't constitute commencement. Wind farms occasionally do something similar if they aren't going to be built for a few years. They build an access and apply for a cert to confirm work has commenced rather than hasn't commenced. Then they don't need to worry about the 5 year limit on their PP.

I think I would want to make a list of what you propose and see if they will OK it in writing.