Temp

If the road is unadopted and privately owned by that company...are you sure a new house would have a right of access over it?

In most cases it will depend how defined the building line is. If all other house are exactly in line then chances are the planner will want new house to be in line as well. If it's more irregular then they will be more flexible. They might also object if the house was so far back that the planners consider it sets a precident for building another row of houses behind the existing line. Sometimes they refer to this as "backland development".

Can be same resistance. Our plot is between a 16c cottage, on the building line, and a church set back from it. We wanted to build mid way between the two because the plot was narrower at the front. Planners kept insisting we build in line with the cottage not further back. Spent a year and about £10k trying to get what we wanted approved. About to give up but decided to get a planning consultant to review our plans. By accident we found one that had been involved with a previous owner of the plot. He had a letter the planners had sent the previous owner which said "a house further back might be better"!!!! I could have kissed him and punched the planning officer. When we showed the planning officer the letter they rolled over and agreed our application, but we never got back that year of our life.

+1 Adding a door or window is normally permitted development once a house is finished. So they are very unlikely to issue an enforcement notice if they discover a door not on your plans. What would be the point? You could comply with the enforcement notice by bricking it up then immediately unbrick it under permitted development.

Not sure but I think its available in different colours if that matters.

+1 Some things can be zero rated if they are deemed to be "closely connected to the construction of a new dwelling" but they don't usually include consultants or similar. Check out paragraphs 3.3.4 to 3.3.7... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction/vat-notice-708-buildings-and-construction

+1 Some manifolds have thermostatic mixers on them allowing you to limit the temperature going to the floor but it usually limits all loops on that manifold which you may not want.

I think you want someone that does corporate law with a hint of property on the side.

On top or in the screed? Is this wet UFH or electric mats?

In case it helps... You no longer need a 150mm step between an attached garage and the house. Can be same height provided it slopes away from the door to the house. Check the regs.

How much current (Amps) can they give you on one phase? If you are planning an all electric house (ASHP, multiple showers, electric car charging point?) then check they can give you enough.

I'd wait until it's been tiled before measuring for this one. Edit: Ah ok I see you're just having a screen not screen and door. That's less critical.

Instead of using underground T connectors I'd bring the blue HDPE mains feed up through into the house using 110mm drain pipe as a conduit. Right next door, perhaps in the same 110mm pipe install another length of HDPE going back down and out again to the static caravan. Connect the two temporarily say 12-18" above FFL. Wrap loads of insulation around it. Later fit suitable valves so you can turn off water to the house or just to the static van. If you replace the static van with a shed it can be handy to have a water supply out there.

Can't claim to be an expert but have heard that a bad connection between Neutral and Earth on a three phase system can cause over voltage. It certainly sounds like you had an over voltage event if you have had multiple failures and smoke coming out of a sky box. I think you should also speak to your house insurance company. Perhaps the would consider paying for an investigation to reduce the chances of further claims?

Are the trees self seeded or were they planted in rows?

I agree you need proper advice... If the woods are counted as part of the curtilage of your house that might increase SDLT but I guess it might also make it easier to build on from a planning perspective. You could try asking the Planning Department if they consider the woods to be within the curtilage of the house and using that to challenge the SDLT paid to the HMRC. I think you also need to check out the rules on Capital Gains tax. The exemption on your Principle Private Residence has a gotcha that catches you if it's over 1.2 acres. https://www.gov.uk/tax-sell-home

I've had set of these for quite awhile and used them to drill holes in farm gate hinges (galvanised steel). Found them ok. Makita P-51873 HSS Titanium-Plated Drill Bit Set 16Pcs £25 https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-p-51873-hss-titanium-plated-drill-bit-set-16pcs/94051 Yesterday I found them on Amazon for just £15 and have reordered. Should be here Monday. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007RCCPC0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Government allows 1million more non-portable smart meters to be installed... Why not just delay the project two months? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/bills-and-utilities/gas-electric/another-million-substandard-smart-meters-will-put-homes/

Do you have to run MVHR pipes horizontally in the floor? Could you run the pipes vertically in a corner? They are likely to have to go vertically as well anyway.

Is the COP really only 7.7/4.5 = 1.7 ? Does it improve at say half power?

I'm not 100% up on the latest rules but I would go for a CU that has separate RCBO in each power slot/circuit. Indoor lighting circuits can share an RCD if you want to save money. External circuits such as feeds to a freestanding garage/shed typically use an MCB and SWA cable to the garage/shed. In there they fit a "garage CU" with RCD. To some extents it depends if it's an integral or separate garage and how the earthing is done. Think about how you group rooms together on one circuit. The most likely rooms to cause trips are the Kitchen (eg Toaster) and Utility room (washing machine/dryer) and outside circuits (lighting, power to shed etc). I would arrange these to be on separate circuits to your TV/PVR or computers. This way if the toaster or heating element in the oven or dishwasher fails it doesn't trip out your PC or TV/Recorder. Outside lighting can also be prone to failure/water ingress problems. So I would have circuits and radials something like.. Sockets (Kitchen & Utility) Sockets (Living room, home office, dining room) Sockets (Bedrooms) Sockets (Bedrooms if needed) Lighting (Up) Lighting (Down) Outside lights (eg lights on PIR sensors) ASHP, UFH, Stats SUNAMP MVHR Interlinked Smoke Alarms Electric shower? Outside socket/car charger? Garage/shed ? MVHR don't draw much power so it's possible to have a separate circuit or run it from a FSU/Spur off one of the Socket rings.

Strange isn't it. It's a "store only" product but few places have more than 1 or 2 packs. Nearest I could find on their web site were: EDMONTON EXTRA 8 packs DARTFORD 5 packs

Pretty sure you need a level entry and more... My reading of the amended Part M is that the three categories are progressively more suitable for disabled people but all have level entry requirements and more.. M4(1) Category 1: Visitable dwellings (least suitable) M4(2) Category 2: Accessible and adaptable dwellings M4(3) Category 3: Wheelchair user dwellings (most suitable) Planners can decide how many of each they need in their area and can impose planning conditions requiring some to be M4(2) or M4(3). My reading is that Cat 1 represents the situation before the 2015/16 amendments. (eg Even Cat 1 Dwellings need level access and WC on entry level etc.) Only M4(3) are required to be "entirely wheelchair accessible". I assume these need to have bedrooms on the entry level as well. This is consistent with what your council has said... "not all dwellings need to be entirely wheelchair accessible" = Not all need to be Cat 3. Note that Part M requires "level access". Many people interpret that to mean a ramp because floor levels are traditionally set above ground level. I haven't checked but I don't think there is anything stopping you putting the floor level at ground level. This would eliminate any need for a ramp and also give you a level transition from living room to patio. There would be design issues with the DPC and preventing rainwater running under doors but I don't think these are unsurmountable problems. I'd like to see the NHBC issue a construction detail drawing showing how this can be done, if they haven't already. Edit: Indeed I had forgotten about basements! You can have the floor level meters below ground level if you wanted. The regs only require the DPC to be 150mm above ground level on the outer leaf. They don't require the floor to be 150mm above ground level.

Perhaps things have changed but it was to mine. I was one of the first houses after part E was introduced to have a concrete first floor. The first BCO I had wanted me to provide Robust Design Detail drawings for a concrete floor with UFH to show it met E2b. They didn't exist at the time as apparently nobody had done the necessary tests. Eventually I found a beam and block company that had done their own test and provided me with a copy of their certificate. I was able to convince the BCO that adding UFH on top could only improve things. They also gave me grief over the sound and fire rating of my downlights.

That can work well. For example if you have steps down off the flat area as well as the ramp, the steps have to be 90cm wide anyway. I appreciate we have a lot more space than most but this is what we were allowed. Ignore the wood, I have been fixing loose slabs. The bit on the left is (was going to be) reinforced grass but never got around to laying grass on it.