Temp

Why have the ends shrunk back? Manufacturing defect?

Have a look at the headings on the claim forms. HMRC say you can use a spreadsheet to file your claim if you use the same headings (and the pages of questions at the front). In my day there were two forms, one for reciepts that show the VAT itemised and one for those that just show the total Inc VAT. I think this was only to make manual calculation easier? If using a spreadsheet splitting them like this would be pointless but I don't know if HMRC still insist you split invoices in this way.

Good question. I believe its from first breech. So if the planning conditions says "before work starts" or "before occupation you must do xyz" then the date you start work or occupy the house would be the date of first breech.

+1 My TV aerial is in the loft. I replaced a foil covered panel with one without foil and it works ok. The foil covered insulation in the walls seems to block 4G and wifi pretty well.

Some 50mm traps have better flow rate than some 90mm traps... McAlpine have 90mm traps rated 24, 34, 26, 42, 50 L/min and 50mm traps rated at 40, 50, 54, and 56 L/min Yes I do have that the right way around! https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/shower-traps-accessories One issue is that many traps have a small Euro spec pipe coming out (38mm?) and a 45 degree adapter to suit UK pipe sizes (approx 40 or 50mm). So there is an inherent restriction compared to others. Note that (no?) 50mm traps are top access so you need a plinth with 50mm traps.

Are you allowed to hide external meter boxes? If so how about leaving it single and cladding the outside with something to cover the meters with and provide an access door? I'm thinking modern style oak cladding. http://www.orlestonetimber.co.uk/Cladding/Machined-Cladding-/?wizid=istn3jg7o8dkr3irknfuacdfr6

Pp How much is the fee? Sometimes there are more important things in life to worry about. I have a planning condition that we never got discharged. Now >10 years later they can't enforce it. Probably a god job as not sure we comply with it. Not sure what a future buyer might think about that but hey ho. If you are sure they will accept the application to discharge the condition is probably just pay it.

I think tar and rope is used for boats. Sounded good to me as well but unfortunately this place says tar can trap water causing the wood to rot. https://www.heritage-house.org/stuff-about-old-buildings/timber-framed-buildings/oak-frame-construction-and-repair.html They suggest..

Not 100% sure this is the problem but I suspect an issue with the UFH loop pump.. With the mixer on full hot a greater percentage of the water circulating comes from the boiler through the mixer, around the floor loops and back to the boiler. Less is recycled by the UFH loop pump. With the mixer on cold most of the water circulating just goes round and round the loops (or not if the loop pump has a problem). Edit: Ah wait I'm talking BS. That's not how it works.

Actually the shower area for that one is only about 600x800 so I'd fit a wider screen and reduce door width a bit.

I'd fit a large tray (1200/1000 x 800/900) and screen instead of a wet room because I hate going in later and getting wet socks. Perhaps something like this (but I've no experience of this make/supplier). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Walk-In-Shower-Enclosure-Cubicle-1200x800mm-Stone-Tray-Free-Waste/192154199587?hash=item2cbd486623:g:FfkAAOSwc49Y6H3D They are typically supported on a timber frame (2x4), 18mm WBP then mortar. Trays have fall built in so are set level by adjusting the timber frame. You can get trays that are as shallow as 25mm (overall height) and due to the fall and thickness there is only a very slight difference in height where you go in. Perhaps as little as 5mm.

If its a guest shower that won't be used much running costs should be negligible? If so I'd consider going for a bigger one (>10kW) if that's possible.

If you are buying replacement some companies like DFS will take away your old one for free. Think they also donate £100 to heart foundation. Yes here you go.. https://www.dfs.co.uk/content/bhf edit: Actually it appears you don't have to buy a new one to use this scheme.

I don't think there is a standard for the 22mm. If you are trying to fit something else to a compression fitting then I tried to do this recently. Someone here pointed out that the inside of the fitting is tapered to squash the olive onto the pipe - so it makes a poor seal if you want to use something else that uses a regular washer. I was able to file off the taper enough to get a good seal but only just. Probably better to use the correct adaptors.

I remember sunshine, think it was warm, might be wrong though.

Made a mistake. Front door ///interlude.silence.needed My garage ///mega.drooling.normal Storage container ///enormous.singers.postings

Not me but Google found.. https://www.angloinfo.com/blogs/portugal/lisbon/sinking-into-portugal/cesspits-and-sewerage-in-portugal-all-you-never-wanted-to-know/ "If you are buying a home in Portugal make it a condition of the sale that the previous owner has the sewerage tank emptied by the council and has the receipt as proof that it’s done." https://britishexpats.com/forum/portugal-89/septic-tanks-fossas-727229/ Not sure what a fossa is but... "Ideally before buying the land would be a good idea to ask the council an PIP (pedido de Informação Prévia)---Request for Previos Information, in which you will submit the rough planns (generic) of your future house with the fossa included. However, if you are sure about building licence in your plot, you may just ask for a fossa permit which which will require an authorization from the water authority in the Algarve." Might be worth posting on expat forums.

Survey done. You might be interested to know that in some other European countries such as Belgium what we call self build accounts for upto 80% of new houses.

Just a thought but is it better/possible/cheaper to build the wall pillars to suit railing length rather than the other way around?

We have three small dormers in bathrooms. In our case they help with the headroom allowing a WC under the window. Only issue is that our windows are triangular so curtains are a bit harder.

Was that S106 for "affordable housing"?

Good source of info is this site. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/knowledge/planning-your-install Possibly too much info. As a starting point they suggest a Log36.. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/product/log-36-aerial-pre-wired-c-w-1ft-of-self-amalg-tape or Yagi.. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/product/yagi-18k-aerial With the elements either horizontal or vertical to suit the transmitter (most are horizontal). Perhaps try the post code checker here and then scroll down and select detailed view. https://www.freeview.co.uk/help Which transmitter(s) does it suggest? How far away? Signal strength Good/Green? Bearing to transmitter? Check any trees or buildings in that direction?

Never tried one. However Aerial theory was one of my courses at university some 40 years ago (which means I've forgotten most of it!). An awful lot depends on where you are in relation to the transmitter and if there are any local conditions that need special measures. If the transmitter is close and in line of sight a small conventional (cheaper) aerial might be all you need. First thing I noticed is that it has a built in amplifier/booster. That's not necessarily a good thing because amplifiers not only amplify the wanted signal but they add noise and amplify unwanted signals. It probably needs an amplifier to make up for its small size. The normal rules of aerial selection... Right type and size of aerial. Pointed in the right direction. As high as necessary/possible. Then if that doesn't work perfectly then address the reason why. For example if the signal is weak a bigger or higher aerial is the first thing to try. Only if you cannot fit a bigger/higher aerial should you use an amplifier. If the problem is interference from another transmitter then you might need a more directional aerial (high gain in the direction of the wanted transmitter and low gain in the direction of the unwanted transmitter. There is a lot to be said for finding a local aerial installer with a lot of experience.

I put mine on a slab of granite from a local stone mason. He had some gloss black left over from a kitchen and I got him to hone off the gloss surface. I had considered slate but was told it scratched and marked easily. If it's just the colour of the bricks you dont like, consider brick slips.