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Pp How much is the fee? Sometimes there are more important things in life to worry about. I have a planning condition that we never got discharged. Now >10 years later they can't enforce it. Probably a god job as not sure we comply with it. Not sure what a future buyer might think about that but hey ho. If you are sure they will accept the application to discharge the condition is probably just pay it.

I think tar and rope is used for boats. Sounded good to me as well but unfortunately this place says tar can trap water causing the wood to rot. https://www.heritage-house.org/stuff-about-old-buildings/timber-framed-buildings/oak-frame-construction-and-repair.html They suggest..

Not 100% sure this is the problem but I suspect an issue with the UFH loop pump.. With the mixer on full hot a greater percentage of the water circulating comes from the boiler through the mixer, around the floor loops and back to the boiler. Less is recycled by the UFH loop pump. With the mixer on cold most of the water circulating just goes round and round the loops (or not if the loop pump has a problem). Edit: Ah wait I'm talking BS. That's not how it works.

Actually the shower area for that one is only about 600x800 so I'd fit a wider screen and reduce door width a bit.

I'd fit a large tray (1200/1000 x 800/900) and screen instead of a wet room because I hate going in later and getting wet socks. Perhaps something like this (but I've no experience of this make/supplier). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Walk-In-Shower-Enclosure-Cubicle-1200x800mm-Stone-Tray-Free-Waste/192154199587?hash=item2cbd486623:g:FfkAAOSwc49Y6H3D They are typically supported on a timber frame (2x4), 18mm WBP then mortar. Trays have fall built in so are set level by adjusting the timber frame. You can get trays that are as shallow as 25mm (overall height) and due to the fall and thickness there is only a very slight difference in height where you go in. Perhaps as little as 5mm.

If its a guest shower that won't be used much running costs should be negligible? If so I'd consider going for a bigger one (>10kW) if that's possible.

If you are buying replacement some companies like DFS will take away your old one for free. Think they also donate £100 to heart foundation. Yes here you go.. https://www.dfs.co.uk/content/bhf edit: Actually it appears you don't have to buy a new one to use this scheme.

I don't think there is a standard for the 22mm. If you are trying to fit something else to a compression fitting then I tried to do this recently. Someone here pointed out that the inside of the fitting is tapered to squash the olive onto the pipe - so it makes a poor seal if you want to use something else that uses a regular washer. I was able to file off the taper enough to get a good seal but only just. Probably better to use the correct adaptors.

I remember sunshine, think it was warm, might be wrong though.

Made a mistake. Front door ///interlude.silence.needed My garage ///mega.drooling.normal Storage container ///enormous.singers.postings

Not me but Google found.. https://www.angloinfo.com/blogs/portugal/lisbon/sinking-into-portugal/cesspits-and-sewerage-in-portugal-all-you-never-wanted-to-know/ "If you are buying a home in Portugal make it a condition of the sale that the previous owner has the sewerage tank emptied by the council and has the receipt as proof that it’s done." https://britishexpats.com/forum/portugal-89/septic-tanks-fossas-727229/ Not sure what a fossa is but... "Ideally before buying the land would be a good idea to ask the council an PIP (pedido de Informação Prévia)---Request for Previos Information, in which you will submit the rough planns (generic) of your future house with the fossa included. However, if you are sure about building licence in your plot, you may just ask for a fossa permit which which will require an authorization from the water authority in the Algarve." Might be worth posting on expat forums.

Survey done. You might be interested to know that in some other European countries such as Belgium what we call self build accounts for upto 80% of new houses.

Just a thought but is it better/possible/cheaper to build the wall pillars to suit railing length rather than the other way around?

We have three small dormers in bathrooms. In our case they help with the headroom allowing a WC under the window. Only issue is that our windows are triangular so curtains are a bit harder.

Was that S106 for "affordable housing"?

Good source of info is this site. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/knowledge/planning-your-install Possibly too much info. As a starting point they suggest a Log36.. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/product/log-36-aerial-pre-wired-c-w-1ft-of-self-amalg-tape or Yagi.. https://www.aerialsandtv.com/product/yagi-18k-aerial With the elements either horizontal or vertical to suit the transmitter (most are horizontal). Perhaps try the post code checker here and then scroll down and select detailed view. https://www.freeview.co.uk/help Which transmitter(s) does it suggest? How far away? Signal strength Good/Green? Bearing to transmitter? Check any trees or buildings in that direction?

Never tried one. However Aerial theory was one of my courses at university some 40 years ago (which means I've forgotten most of it!). An awful lot depends on where you are in relation to the transmitter and if there are any local conditions that need special measures. If the transmitter is close and in line of sight a small conventional (cheaper) aerial might be all you need. First thing I noticed is that it has a built in amplifier/booster. That's not necessarily a good thing because amplifiers not only amplify the wanted signal but they add noise and amplify unwanted signals. It probably needs an amplifier to make up for its small size. The normal rules of aerial selection... Right type and size of aerial. Pointed in the right direction. As high as necessary/possible. Then if that doesn't work perfectly then address the reason why. For example if the signal is weak a bigger or higher aerial is the first thing to try. Only if you cannot fit a bigger/higher aerial should you use an amplifier. If the problem is interference from another transmitter then you might need a more directional aerial (high gain in the direction of the wanted transmitter and low gain in the direction of the unwanted transmitter. There is a lot to be said for finding a local aerial installer with a lot of experience.

I put mine on a slab of granite from a local stone mason. He had some gloss black left over from a kitchen and I got him to hone off the gloss surface. I had considered slate but was told it scratched and marked easily. If it's just the colour of the bricks you dont like, consider brick slips.

Just curious but does your lender also offer house insurance? I know they probably don't cover plots but it might be worth giving them a call pretending to need house insurance and ask if they can note a lender on their own policy. If they say no it might give you ammunition to get the requirement removed.

+1

Doesn't help but Google suggests it's pointless them asking to be noted on the policy... http://www.robertgerrard.com/2018/09/noting-an-interest-on-an-insurance-policy-is-it-necessary/

I guess we know who to ask about screed now. Is that 30mm over the pipes or 30mm total? We quite often get questions about the minimum floor build up for UFH. I've seen a system that was ok with 40mm screed but interested to know if thinner is possible.

@jfb has a socket in the floor so has to be a male fitting above it. The second photo in the OP is about as low as physically possible because it has a boss that will end up only mm above the top of the socket.

My parents named their house Palma Nova because that's where they went on honeymoon.