Temp

Does it still provide the "clear opening width" to allow someone to escape through it - building regs issue? There is also a minimum sill height rule to stop people falling out.

Shouldn't really be on the same dimmer. Light dimmers aren't rated for driving motors although they may do so.

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Sounds like it's doable. We have a public footpath near and across our land and someone pointed out you aren't allowed to drive vehicles over a public footpath unless you have a right of way. It didn't cause us too many issues in the end, although footpath officer said he wouldn't divert it to a new route until the grass seed we had laid had grown. So we turfed it and told him it grew overnight.

Some BCO provide this advice of a version of same.. https://www.eden.gov.uk/planning-and-building/building-control/building-control-guidance-notes/roof-ventilation/

Some dimmers have a minimum load specified. When incandescent bulbs are replaced with LED the load is reduced and can fall below the minimum specified for the dimmer. Adding the fan takes the load back above the minimum specified but is not an acceptable solution. Use a proper LED dimmer for the lights and move the fan to another switch. This might be possible using a modular/Grid faceplate (eg dimmer and switch on one face plate) but depends where the fan is connected to the lighting circuit. or just replace the dimmer with a switch as others have suggested.

I recently fitted one of these dimmers.. https://www.medlocks.co.uk/zano-zmo150-led-dimmer-switch-digital-150w-module-only-white Its just a dimmer module, I used my existing face plate and knob. Zano make a range.. https://zanocontrols.co.uk/ https://www.medlocks.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=zano PS It won't cope with a fan though.

I don't envy you. Are they public footpaths? Some things also appear incompatible with each other such as.. Normally to protect trees you can't dig at all. I think that's probably the best route but you will probably need something bigger than a mini digger. Hammer in some posts and use a water level or laser to put marks on them, then tell them to excavate until its ?cm below the top of the posts. When level set out for the piling. Perhaps pay the engineer to make a few site visits to check before piling and before pouring? I used a hired dumper truck to transport ready mix concrete around our site which worked ok provided you drove slowly. Perhaps work out how many trips up and down the path you would have to make to move 100 cubic meters. Are neighbours going to complain? The problem might not be digging but loading the muck away lorries. Is there space near the road to put a massive pile of dirt so you can use same digger to load the muck away lorry when it come to collect? How long are the paths? Can you pump concrete that far?

Based on what you have said so far.. You would be liable for the CIL if it applies in your area. Only Self Builders are exempt. You wouldn't be eligible for the Self Build VAT reclaim scheme, but any services should still be zero rated to you. Likewise any materials purchased by a contractor doing "supply and fit" should also be zero rated to you (but it can be hard to convince some trades that this is true as they have paid VAT on the materials). Only things you buy yourself would have VAT on them that wouldn't be reclaimable. Some things like tool hire will also have VAT on them but that's not reclaimable by anyone. The project maybe liable for Capital Gains Tax on any profit over your exemption. However if this project is your main source of income you might be liable for Income tax instead. If selling within 10 years the buyer will expect a 10 year warrant. I don't know what hoops a Ltd Company has to go through to provide one. I doubt a Ltd Company can buy the same policies that a self builder can. The optimal route would probably be to have a change of plan and decide to build a house for yourself to live in. You would potentially need to live there for at least three years to avoid the CIL. A shorter period to avoid CGT. What matters to HMRC are your intentions at the outset. See what your tax advisor says and then make a decision and ensure everything you do is consistent with that decision. eg Don't tell HMRC its a self build and at the same time apply for a business loan. You should also work out if you can actually make any money building the house. We purchased our plot from a builder who was selling it because he didn't think he could make any more money by actually building the house. We got the PP revised and built something better. We have a great house but I don't think we made/saved any money.

Pretty clearly there is a leak somewhere if its loosing pressure with no water coming out of the PRV. If Worcester Bosch can't find anything wrong with the boiler try feeling around every joint and connection you can find on the system looking for drops of water, everything should be bone dry. If you can't find anything I'd tell the landlord it needs a heating engineer to isolate parts of the system and do pressure checks to find the leak. Each section might take 24 hours so it's not going to be quick process. Just needs someone who is methodical and can work a problem logically. The issue with not being able to fully switch off the system at night should be easy to fix but the landlord may argue its working as designed.

Are your surnames the same for both plots?

Didn't know you spoke German.

The EU have 100 degrees in a right angle so you get these odd half degree amounts when you do the conversion to "imperial degrees".

Google found... https://www.morrlaw.com/commercial-property-law/easement-rights/

I believe the reason for the delay mentioned in the OP is because the land registry don't like splitting land into two titles unless one is being sold at the same time. One reason for this is because you cannot grant yourself a covenant (or an easement?). So for example I don't think you can give yourself a right to run services over the existing plot if you still own both.

If this AAV is going on the end of a branch off a stack then yes it's best at the end of that branch. If it's going at the top of a stack my understanding is that BCO like the stack furthest from the main sewer in the road to be open vented. Any other stacks can have AAV. However I believe current regs only require one open vented stack for every 5 houses (or something like that) so you might be able to argue the toss with the BCO.

I think you will have to get someone locally to look at it. If setback is actually working (eg putting the switch on the stat to the Clock position reduces the temperature at night by 4C) then the Clock must be controlling setback mode in the stats. Either that or the manual is wrong. That's because manual for the stat says... If you want the clock to turn off the heating totally instead then it will need to be rewired. I think it should be possible to add a two position switch that is labeled "Setback" and "ON/OFF". In one position the Clock would put it into setback at night (as now) and in the other it would turn it OFF totally at night.

Humm, see what you mean. Doesn't look like setback is working. Lounge should probably have fallen to perhaps 16-17C by 5.45am - unless the place is very well insulated. Did you notice which if any LEDs on the lounge stat were illuminated? Right hand LED should be yellow if its correctly in setback mode (and not calling for heat). Left hand LED either on or off depending if its calling for heat or not.

Check the building regs (Approved doc J) as they specify things like the gap behind a stove and the minimum projection of the hearth in front. So you might find the minimum depth is determined for you. For ease of construction choose a stove with feet that the maker certifies cannot raise the hearth over 100C. Approved doc J is hard to follow until you realise some bits apply to stoves that are certified and others to stoves and fire baskets that aren't.

Too much demand for housing to care about the EPC? How about Increased stamp duty on badly insulated houses? Would that make people wake up? Make it reclaimable if the house is improved within 3 years? Any money raised used to provide grants for insulation? If not stamp duty then how about CGT or some other tax on sellers of badly insulated houses?

Ok after another look I can't tell from your original photos of the stats which of the following modes the system was designed to operate in.. 1) The clock determines if the stats are in normal or setback modes. or 2) The clock turns the whole system on/off (and the stats are wired permanently in normal temperature mode). You would need to figure out if the time clock is controlling the clock input on the stats. The manual for the stats says that (with the switch in the clock position).. https://www.heatmiser.com/en/download/211/english/9550/ds-sb-v3-2.pdf If that's how your system was designed to work then I would expect the boiler to wake up in the night sometimes, probably several hours after the clock switches off and the temperature drops 4C below the set temperature. However if the clock inputs to the stats are permanently live then the clock might be intended to turn the whole system on and off (and it has a fault or wiring error that prevents it turning off at night). I believe the optional link on the clock just converts the relay output from "volt free" mode to "Switched 230V" mode. I would expect only one to be connected to the UH3, probably the NO output. If more than one has a connection where does it go?

Think I would try submitting four separate planning applications identical to your existing PP. I know there would be fees but at least it would be clear. Edit: When you submit your commencement notice for your self build make 100% sure to quote the right planning reference!

I might be wrong but i believe the difference is minor. The TC-02 is a single channel time to clock and the TM4-TS is a four channel. I believe the time clock shown on the UH3 wiring diagram only controls the setback time. So does it matter if all stats switch from normal temperature to setback temperature at the same time (TC-02) or in groups at different times (TM4-TS)? I suppose some people might want to setback different rooms at different times but you are after the ability to turn off bedrooms totally not just setback. One solution would be to replace the stat in your bedroom with a fully programmable stat. That would allow you to program it to be fully off at night not just set back. The boiler might fire up to heat other rooms but yours would be off. We have Heatmiser programmable stats and you can set the temperature to at least four different values at different times. Eg you could set.. Waking up temperature (20C) Daytime temperature (18C) Evening temperature (22C) Night temperature (10C or lower so it's effectively off, just acting as a frost stat). You can also alter the times it switches between these temperatures.

We just chuck em in a drawer.

Sorry forget I mentioned DHW header. I was having a brain fart.