Temp

Did you try it with the actuator on the valve? Was it one of the three problem actuators and did it make any difference?

I think @nod meant "vertical". For example a vertical beam under the middle of the green beam would allow the green beam to be smaller in depth.

It's about 4" thick.

Perhaps worth just hooking an actuator to the mains via a switch and manually trying to put it into calibration mode?

I'm wondering if you are never seeing a calibration cycle? The manual here for the THB230 mentions recalibration... https://www.salus-controls.eu/products/thb230-thb24-auto-balancing-actuator

Did you mean to say... When I turn up any Stat the wiring centre calls for heat until I turn them all them all down? That's correct behaviour. The wiring centre performs a Logical OR function to generate Boiler Enable (BE) and turn the manifold pump etc.

Some makes of stat can call for short bursts of heat unless you programe them to have a minimum cycle time. Pretty sure the default settings for the Heatmiser stats we have in our house would allow a 20-60 second call. Perhaps see "Feature 04 Output Delay" in the Heatmiser Manual. I think that effectively sets a minimum cycle time but check with Heatmiser. Edit: on some models it's Feature 05...

I went to the Wundafloor website to look up about these actuators and I noticed it says... https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/quick-shop/wundatherm-quick-shop/controls-quickshop/actuator-auto-balancing/ Really? What's so special about Heatmiser stats? Are they sure the incompatibility isn't due to some quirk of their actuators? Heatmiser stats work pretty much like most other makes of stat. Have they given an explanation for this?

Looks great. Make sure everything is well fixed down. We had a shed roof blow off once. Took out neighbours fence.

Perhaps try this co. Looks like they fit access control systems into other manufactures boxes.. http://www.artsofsteel.co.uk http://www.artsofsteel.co.uk/Access_Control_Systems.html#

One other thing to check is if your council has can demonstrate it has met the 5 year supply guidance.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/housing-supply-and-delivery If not then they are under greater pressure to allow developments that might otherwise be less acceptable.

+1 You may not need to pay him that much initially. I would ask one to quote to come look at the site and give their opinion on your chances of getting planning permission. Depending on what they say you could hire them to do more work on an application. It might help him if you request a copy of the title plan from the Land Registry website (you need to register but It only costs £3 and they send it by email https://www.gov.uk/search-property-information-land-registry ) markup where you want to build. You might also try getting a copy of the planning file for your family house approved in the 1980s (although there have been a lot of policy changes since then). In my area you would have to look up the planning reference number online and then request an appointment to see the paper files as they may not be available online. Look for any reports the planning officer wrote to the planning committee or letters of advice or reasoning from the planning officer to the land owner. Some of those arguments may still apply. Do you have any buildings that could be converted or converted and enlarged? That might improve your chances.

Can get wall mount post boxes in SS with intercom via Amazon.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intercom-System-Stainless-B2-Gira-Beschriftung/dp/B06X1FF3QT

Google says 20 and 30mm PIR is available so you could add a layer of that to the 100mm PIR he already has. Think I'd put it under the 100mm.

Yes although I would make sure the top step/edge is well supported down to the lower screed. Don't rely on the threaded studs to carry vertical loads.

I couldn't see it mentioned in the vid but we had to adjust some stops in the pocket to prevent the door going too far in and banging the handle on the frame. I don't remember if this was possible after plaster boarding the frame so perhaps hold off finishing the frame if you don't yet have the door ? Its also possible they have changed the design of the frame since we fitted ours.

I've just renewed my normal house insurance and found that playing around with the rebuild cost on the comparison sites didn't affect the overall price much. Some companies are offering unlimited rebuild costs for properties up to £1m.

Think you need this video. White spacer is removed after fitting frame to wall. Box of bits appears at 1:09 I think..

+1 I don't see a problem building a few steps on a screed base. How about this... Fit some 4x2 (or 6x2?) shown in green, to prevent the top level screed flowing over the edge and to set the top level of the screed. Perhaps put some threaded studs with nuts on through the shuttering so you can later bolt it tighter to the screed. Then later clad the lot in something better like 14 or 21mm engineered oak. This would also raise the FFL to match any carpet or tiles (purple) on the top level.

You can get 25 - 15mm "Reducing couplers". Takes 25mm MDPE and 15mm plastic or copper pipe... https://www.bes.co.uk/25-mm-x-15-mm-mdpe-x-polyfit-adaptor-polypipe-18155?ref=gs&photo=true&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmsrxBRDaARIsANyiD1rofPhP08F0DLxy6Z7-tqLEefJ8MZL_vLbe2xcIBpV3OI1xfAC--i4aAr9AEALw_wcB Most of the "unequal T's" or "Reducing T's" seem to be 25mm down to 20mm.

You might need to build a circuit the performs a logical OR function so that if light switch A or B is turned on power is sent to the fan. I think this can be done using double pole switches. One pole sends power to the light, the other pole sends power to the fan. Both rooms would need to be on same circuit. Will need more cores in the wire from light down to switches than normal.

No. The CIL is meant to be a formulae applied to all developments equally, although I think they can limit it to some areas of the country. An S106 agreement could be used though.

The CIL is a formula that should be applied equally to all developments that aren't exempt. S106 contributions are said to be voluntary but they aren't really. I would be surprised if such an explicit arrangement was be legal. However... What they probably mean is...developments such as your two houses would put an unacceptable strain on local roads unless you provided land to improve them. Your contribution of land (perhaps by way of a section 106 agreement) is needed to make your planning application acceptable in planning terms :-)

No there are other issues with GU10 LED as well. Each GU10 bulb has to contain a circuit to reduce mains voltage to suit the LED chips. That circuit tends to fail before the LEDs themselves. On "proper" LED fittings with non-replaceable bulbs that circuit doesn't have to be crammed into the bulb it can be bigger and runs cooler.

+1 to most of the above. We fitted GU10 and would go a different route now. GU10 are ok if you fit wide angle LED bulbs but they seem to be getting harder to find - at least in physical stores.